73 cj5 clutch disengagment issues.

[wassmann113]

hello, new here.
I've looked through various threads trying to find my issue that I'm having and I'm not having much luck.

the jeep has a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l (AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l ) and a 3speed. I'm not sure if it origonal with the jeep itself or if it's a Frankenstein. the tub and title says it came with a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l and then my core support says 304c.i.

however the issue I'm having is my clutch does not disengage. everything is lined up correctly and the clutch disk is in correctly.( stamp on clutch disk for flywheel side). I've tried the two options of clutches for my jeep, 3finger pressure plate and the diaphragm. I've tried both styles and brand new clutch linkage. new clutch fork.
the pedal adjustment is correct at about an inch of travel. however I don't have clutch disengagement while running. if the pedal is depressed and I start the engine in gear my jeep will slightly move foward. but it dosent go in or out of gear smoothly like before the job.

I'm at a loss here on what's going on and it's been very frustrating dropping the Transmission over again.
I believe it's a T-15 ? 3speed has Dana 300 Transfer Case .
some light on the situation would be appreciated. I'm lost haha..

 

[hagar]

Lots of variables here, but maybe a little vehicle history first.

Was this issue there before clutch replacement ?

This issue only started after clutch replacement ?

If you replaced the pilot bushing, it could be too tight.

If you fought with the Transmission to install and align getting the input shaft into the pilot bushing, you could have bent the clutch disc spline hub (rare, but it has happened)

The clutch disc/material could be thicker than the old disc; only driving or temporarily "burning the disc" may solve that problem. Don't over do it.

The clutch disc hub may be too thick; the hub is riding to far/high on the input shaft splines (bottoming out).

Then...we can start discussing the throw out arm and pivot, throw out bearing and collar......lots to check.

 

[wassmann113]

the jeep ran and drove good before hand. just a slipping clutch. it was a little tough getting the input shaft to go I to the pilot bushing though like you said. other than that it went together easily

 

[jp360cj]

hello, new here.
I've looked through various threads trying to find my issue that I'm having and I'm not having much luck.

the jeep has a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l (AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l ) and a 3speed. I'm not sure if it origonal with the jeep itself or if it's a Frankenstein. the tub and title says it came with a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l and then my core support says 304c.i.

however the issue I'm having is my clutch does not disengage. everything is lined up correctly and the clutch disk is in correctly.( stamp on clutch disk for flywheel side). I've tried the two options of clutches for my jeep, 3finger pressure plate and the diaphragm. I've tried both styles and brand new clutch linkage. new clutch fork.
the pedal adjustment is correct at about an inch of travel. however I don't have clutch disengagement while running. if the pedal is depressed and I start the engine in gear my jeep will slightly move foward. but it dosent go in or out of gear smoothly like before the job.

I'm at a loss here on what's going on and it's been very frustrating dropping the Transmission over again.
I believe it's a T-15 ? 3speed has Dana 300 Transfer Case .
some light on the situation would be appreciated. I'm lost haha..

I would try adjusting the clutch for a little less freeplay and see what it does. Also, have someone work the clutch while you watch the linkage to make sure everything is moving correctly.

Other than that, exactly what components did you install? Did you compare them to the old ones?

You really need to figure out exactly what your drivetrain is. If you have a 3 speed, I can just about guarantee you don't have a Dana 300 , as there is no way to bolt the Dana 300 to any of the Jeep 3 speeds (without a lot of custom machining). I'm not sure if they use the same clutch components or not, but a T-15 would have been behind a V8 from 72-75, while a T-14 would have been behind an I6 during those years. The T-150 was used behind all engines from 76-79. It sounds your Jeep was likely an original 6 cylinder since that's what the tub and title indicate (I assume based on VIN). What you are calling a "core support" is simply the grill. It's easily (and fairly commonly) changed out.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Did you compare the T/O bearing height before install?
What brand clutch?
LG

 

[wassmann113]

ran the Vin off the firewall.
73 CJ5 made in ohio
t14a Transmission
AMC 304 v8 2bbl
unsure of the tcase, I can't seem to find the I'd tag that's bolted to it like the Transmission .
probobly Dana 20 . shift pattern in it has 2wd 4hi 2low and 4low.. unless there's something wonky I'm not sure what it is haha. but still same issues. I don't get full disengagement. there's only two options I could find for clutches from autozone/orileys/napa/advanced auto/ cut rate auto parts and they all looked exactly the same. same spec. I'm at a loss

 

[mriplaybass]

How much travel do you have on the clutch fork once the throw out bearing engages the pressure plate? In other words, once all the free play is out of the clutch pedal, until the pedal is all the way to the floor. I am not sure about a 73, but our 79 with a AMC 304 has between 1" and 1-1/4" of movement.
Check the bell clutch bell crank for twisting while operating the pedal. The bushings may be worn out, or completely missing, allowing the bell crank to twist away from the fork during operation. It should rotate freely with no side to side or up and down deflection. If the bushings are bad, the pedal will still feel normal, but you will loose travel at the push rod.