Build Thread '74 CJ5 first time build
This is the ‘74 CJ5 I purchased in April 2023. So far, I know it has / appears to have the following (btw, I absolutely do not claim to know anything about Jeeps at this point, so please do not hesitate to correct me on anything I say / do on this build):
Engine: AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l Inline 6
Transmission : T18a
Transfer Case : Dana 20
Front Axle: unknown
Rear Axle: unknown
Milage: unknown, speedometer cable apparently has been disconnected since before the PO bought it in 2022.
The Jeep has lived its life between Pueblo, CO and Cheyenne, WY
Now that the ‘it's a Jeep’ pictures are outta the way, the issues known so far:
The list of good things I can think of so far:
The first thing on my list is:
I have figured out that the headlight switch either needs a good cleaning, so it has a good ground, or needs to be replaced. I was able to find a bad fuse tonight which enabled the running lights to work, still no headlights. The dash lights work if I fiddle with a wire on the back of the headlight switch. I’m thinking the switch needs replacing because when I pull it out to the three positions for ‘Dash lights / running lights / headlights’ it is not consistent on where in the slide each option gets power.
Engine: AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l Inline 6
Transmission : T18a
Transfer Case : Dana 20
Front Axle: unknown
Rear Axle: unknown
Milage: unknown, speedometer cable apparently has been disconnected since before the PO bought it in 2022.
The Jeep has lived its life between Pueblo, CO and Cheyenne, WY
Now that the ‘it's a Jeep’ pictures are outta the way, the issues known so far:
- The only dash gauge that works is the water temp.
- The water temp gauge seems to slowly climb to 180, then peg 250 no matter the speed or distance driven over 3 blocks.
- Headlights / parking lights do not work.
- Passenger front appears to be slightly tweaked…. The frame rail on the passenger side ahead of the grill measures about 1” higher than the driver side, Passenger front fender doesn’t match up to the grill like the driver’s side does, and the nose of the fender is a little outta shape.
- The PO to the PO cut a hole in the dash to build his own gauge layout. The big black button is the horn, the white tab sticking to the left of the horn is the dial switch for the heater box that replaced the glove box.
The list of good things I can think of so far:
- The steering is tight and does not have the dreaded “death wobble” I have heard about
- The PO focused on the engine for his initial item, and had Thomas from Thomas Vintage Autos in Lafayette, CO do the work / store it for him before I bought it. He replaced the carburetor, and the engine runs like a top.
- There is very little rust, the only rust I have found so far (besides surface rust) is the passenger front fender, in the usual spot.
The first thing on my list is:
- Electrical. This is what it looks like now behind / under the dash:
I have figured out that the headlight switch either needs a good cleaning, so it has a good ground, or needs to be replaced. I was able to find a bad fuse tonight which enabled the running lights to work, still no headlights. The dash lights work if I fiddle with a wire on the back of the headlight switch. I’m thinking the switch needs replacing because when I pull it out to the three positions for ‘Dash lights / running lights / headlights’ it is not consistent on where in the slide each option gets power.
instead of the 
