80 CJ7 rear brake upgrade

[Tectron]

Took the rear drums off the cj and found that everything is rusted up quite a bit, I'm thinking of upgrading to disc. Good idea or not ?

 

[mriplaybass]

Unless you are planning on going 35"+ tires, and run steep declines, IMHO rear discs are a waste of money. I run Moab, and SW Colorado every year, and have no problems holding still on long 45° declines. Just make sure that all of the brake components are in good condition, and properly adjusted.

 

[Tectron]

Unless you are planning on going 35"+ tires, and run steep declines, IMHO rear discs are a waste of money. I run Moab, and SW Colorado every year, and have no problems holding still on long 45° declines. Just make sure that all of the brake components are in good condition, and properly adjusted.

I bled the brake system and the jeep does stop good but I don't trust the springs, the rest of it can be cleaned with a wire wheel, I would need/want to replace the drums as after sitting 7 years in the outdoors water pooled in the bottom of the drums and rusted/pitted them up so new drums just sound like a good idea. Wheel cylinders are dry and appear to be doing their job so I believe im good there. When I replaced my $50.00 brake line I bled the brakes until the fluid was coming out clean.

On the shoes, bonded or riveted ? I looked at 2 complete rebuild kits one from crown and I forget the other one but they both come with riveted shoes.

 

[mriplaybass]

My personal preference has always been riveted shoes from the standpoint that years ago, bonded shoes tended to "unbond" from the metal. I'm going back to the 1970's, but old habits die hard. The up side of bonded is if you let them go a little too long, they won't dig into the drum the way rivets can. I'm sure that the newer bonded linings are much better. I have used bonded shoes lately with no problems. I try to stay with well known names like Wagner, Raybestos, etc.
Check the rubber boots on your wheel cylinders for cracking. Personally, I don't even mess with wheel cylinders on something that has been sitting for that long of a time. It's not even worth my time to rebuild them. You can pick up Raybestos cylinders for under $5 each at RockAuto. Cheap insurance, why risk it?

 

[Tectron]

My personal preference has always been riveted shoes from the standpoint that years ago, bonded shoes tended to "unbond" from the metal. I'm going back to the 1970's, but old habits die hard. The up side of bonded is if you let them go a little too long, they won't dig into the drum the way rivets can. I'm sure that the newer bonded linings are much better. I have used bonded shoes lately with no problems. I try to stay with well known names like Wagner, Raybestos, etc.
Check the rubber boots on your wheel cylinders for cracking. Personally, I don't even mess with wheel cylinders on something that has been sitting for that long of a time. It's not even worth my time to rebuild them. You can pick up Raybestos cylinders for under $5 each at RockAuto. Cheap insurance, why risk it?

Agreed, thanks for the slap in the face

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Rear disc requires new p'valve and MC.
The 11 1/2" shoes brakes on my Ford 9" were a great upgrade, and I only run 33" tires.
The OEM rear brakes are a joke!
LG

 

[Tectron]

Rear disc requires new p'valve and MC.
The 11 1/2" shoes brakes on my Ford 9" were a great upgrade, and I only run 33" tires.
The OEM rear brakes are a joke!
LG

I heard that ford axle is a good upgrade is that still a narrow track? or did you go to a different front also. How do you like the 4 to one TC ? I also plan on 33's

 

[Lumpy Grits]

My '85 is a WT, and Currie built the 9" axle to WT specs.
Love my 4/1 t'case.
LG

 

[RiverandSand]

I heard that ford axle is a good upgrade is that still a narrow track? or did you go to a different front also. How do you like the 4 to one TC ? I also plan on 33's

Currie can make it any lenght and any kind of mounts. I had my 9" in my Camaro done by them afew years ago, ladder bar mounts and all.

 

[Project86]

I have a AMC 360 in my 79; with extra horsepower I like extra braking. I ordered one Moser axles and a TSM brake kit just waiting for it all to show up. Once I get it installed I'll update my build thread. There's nothing wrong with keeping it stock. At some point I'm gonna put my rig on a dyno to see what numbers I get. If there is room for improvement I'll be pulling it out and adding some more ponies.

BTW, I've read and been told since I have front discs already I should be able to use my current master cyl, but will need to add a proportioning valve for the rears only. We'll see.

 

[Tectron]

I have a AMC 360 in my 79; with extra horsepower I like extra braking. I ordered one Moser axles and a TSM brake kit just waiting for it all to show up. Once I get it installed I'll update my build thread. There's nothing wrong with keeping it stock. At some point I'm gonna put my rig on a dyno to see what numbers I get. If there is room for improvement I'll be pulling it out and adding some more ponies.

BTW, I've read and been told since I have front discs already I should be able to use my current master cyl, but will need to add a proportioning valve for the rears only. We'll see.

On the moser axles, I looked at them, there are 3 options at the same price, Specs all look the same but they have diff part numbers, cj-s, cj-q, and another one, so what is the diff between them.

 

[Tectron]

On the moser axles, I looked at them, there are 3 options at the same price, Specs all look the same but they have diff part numbers, cj-s, cj-q, and another one, so what is the diff between them.

Did a better search, looks like for 1980 I would use the -S.

thanks