Build Thread 86 CJ7 Laredo. 1st timer

Build Thread 86 CJ7 Laredo. 1st timer

CarolinaRaven

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Location
Murrells Inlet, SC
Vehicle(s)
86 Cj7 Laredo. All original with 258, T5, D300, D44 rear(I think), D30 front.
I picked up my jeep in Virginia from the 2nd owner and think I did ok. 86 Laredo pretty much untouched other than Jasper AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l and front seats. Came with a good bit of paperwork including all receipts, original manuals and window sticker. I'm about 20 hours in on break down now and will try to post and show pics every time I get a little garage time. I'm no mechanic but I can follow instructions well and google like a champ. I will be doing a complete frame off rebuild and using as much original as I can. It will be a street queen close to original except I will be lifting a little and replacing all chrome Laredo options with black or body color. Thanks and look forward to sharing with everyone.
 

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I am a little in to the break down but I'll start from the beginning. 1st off I built a pulley system to hang the hard top and make room. I'll add pic at the end of post and hopefully I'll get better at this and learn how to add as I go. Removed hood, fenders, grille, radiator and all items off firewall. Labeled all wiring and hardware and took pictures. No issues and all looks good except battery tray. Next I went to remove hard doors but after stripping a impact grade torx socket on 1st bolt I decided to soak them a few more days and move on. Tailgate had not been opened in 15 years and took heat after after a week of soaking to finally with lots of force to get hinges working. Removed all original carpet and cleaned. Removed all seats and seat belts. The lower seatbelt mounts beside rollbar mount are rusted through. Got steering wheel off with some rigging and a gear puller. Dash is spotless with paint like new and original pin stripe. Removed it with lots of pics and wiring labeled. The only wires ever messed with was an aftermarket radio. The indicator lights were brittle and need replaced. Removed ac, heater box and everything from area. The window hinges were the same as the tailgate and froze. Lots of pb and heat got it. That's kinda where I am now. Interior is completely empty with nothing there. About to start draining fluids and getting ready to start pulling mechanicals. No real issues so far, broke 2 bolts and unfortunately the moment I put a wrench to the 4wd shifter knob the threaded rod broke off in the knob. I will try and extract later since it is original leather knob and is in great shape. Thanks and I'll update in a day or so.
 

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That's awesome to have all that paperwork, especially the window sticker! AFAIK, the original paperwork is the only way to definitively verify that it's an original Laredo pkg. I'm really surprised that the Laredo package added almost 50% to the base price, and (if I'm reading it right) I didn't know it included a hard top.

I notice the axle ratio is 3.31 and was no charge over the 2.72...Do you have the Dana 44 rear? Just thinking out loud, but I wonder if was typical then to not charge extra for the optional gears, or they were included with the 5 speed "upgrade", or if it's because you have a Dana 44 that wasn't available in a 2.72?
 
The Dana 44 came out in late '86 and has 10 bolts holding the rear inspection cover on. The AMC model 20 has 12 bolts as I recall and a round cover.
 
Thanks for the replies. Yes it came with the hardtop and it is in good shape all original. Based on my Limited experience it is the Dana 44 rear. I looked at pictures of the AMC20 and the Dana 44 and it definitely matches the 44 photos. I am still undecided about the seats. The back seat cleaned up like new, it has 2 tiny pin holes in it that could be easily patched. All hardware and the flip and fold work perfect and I pulled them apart and cleaned that as well. The front seats are black leather bestop(he even had that receipt and manual) with the original sliders and mounts. If I can get an upholsterer to match the rear I will probably do that. I wish he would have kept the originals but oh well. This weekend I finished removing every item and bolt attached to the tub. Right now I have the tub sitting on 4x4's still on the frame. I am going to try and built a mobile cart for it in the next few days. I'm sure everyone( but me ) knows but there are 2 body mounts on the inside of the frame rails back near gas tank. An hour of jacking up, looking, drinking a beer, trying again and then finally hopping on the creeper and going inch by inch I found it. While under there I found one more brake line I think that was bolted to the tub right where the floor rises for the back seat. Every single bolt that held the silver rocker panel trims snapped. The 2 inner bolts that held the rear chrome bumperettes on were a real pain to get to the rear of. If I would have dropped the tank it would have been a breeze but I was trying to leave all intact on the frame plus I guess I'm stubborn. Based on rust uncovered under front roll bar mounts and what was already visible I am looking at ordering the full passenger and driver floor panels from classic enterprises. Also gonna replace the body support braces as well. I'll add in a few pics of this weekend. Thanks. One is an pic of what I think is the 44 rear
 

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Thats a pretty good looking Jeep, you Definitely have a Dana 44 rear. Dont be afraid to ask questions.
 
Got a few hours in tonight. With the tub ready to be pulled I ran in to a small issue, no help or lift! So I got the idea to lower my hard top(I built a pulley system) and put it on dollies to roll out the way. Then slide the jeep 6' over with a jack and dollies so I could lift the tub with my pulley setup. That idea ended quick when I realized I made the cable to short and the top would only go down to the sides were about 3' off the ground.. lesson learned. So I went to a buddy's work and borrowed a hand crank lift assist. Bolted some 2x6's to the 30" forks on it to make them just I've 5' long. Got the top down and then realized I could just use the lifter for the tub. A little jacking and bracing and it slid all the through with the back fork just in front or rear wheel well. Removed one last ground and 2 wires to fuel tank and raised it with no issues. It would have been easier to remover both shifter handles prior. All looked pretty good on frame and will be wheeling out the garage in a day or so for a good pressure washing and degreasing. Then start the engine and mechanical pulling. It's tough for me to stay on track, i walked by the hard top and out of curiosity grabbed a buffer and next thing you know I've blown 40 minutes buffing the fiberglass to a shine. I'll hang it back up and throw a sheet over the tub or else I'll have the sander to that thing in the blink of an eye. Like a kid in a candy store. I'll add some pics.
 

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Sweet it sure is a pain to get those big parts moved around with out help


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yesterday I took the chassis outside and spent about 2 hours pressure washing. Tried to knock off as much grease and dirt as possible to make the removal and breakdown of all components a little easier and cleaner. No surprises, all looked pretty good. I'm not sure if it was paint or what but I peeled a layer of black something off the gas tank. Tank looks great other than the straps after being cleaned. A ton of clay and wasp nest inside the frame rails. I have to research the best way to clean out the rails prior to sand blasting. Going to drain tank and all fluids today or tomorrow and photograph and label all hoses and cables. Hopefully get all that removed and then drop tank, Transfer Case , drive shafts and Transmission .
 
.......It's tough for me to stay on track .........next thing you know I've blown 40 minutes

Only 40 min??? When I realize I've found another rabbit hole, I've been gone days....... never thought about it prior to buying the Jeep, but it has shown me I must suffer from CJADHD..... it's a constant battle with me. Sometimes, when given too many "distractions", I just throw my hands in the air, run in circles and scream and yell......

The dogs are convinced I'm nuts
 
Not sure I posted a 4 hour distraction I had or not. After pulling all the original carpet out I checked some spray-n-wash on one little spot. 20 minutes later I've used a complete bottle and have all carpet soaking. Scrubbed it all with a deck brush then pressure washed and hung to dry. The next day as I go to fold them and store them in my bonus room I notice a little sand still embedded. I was sure the pressure washer would have removed all that but nope. So I start with the shop vac that is doing very little. Next I bring the house vac(she would pissed if she knew) out to see if the brush will help. It did a little but you could still shake and see sand. An hour contemplating and then it hit me. While using the house vac you could see patches of sand pop up and vibrate beside the vac but when you rolled over it the sand would settle back down. Grabbed my variable palm sander and while holding the carpet sideways you stuck the sander with no pad attached to the back of the carpet and like magic the sand would pop up and dance. Convinced wife to come outside while I moved the sander she used shop vac to suck it up while it was vibrating. Even upside down much of the sand would defy gravity and settle back in carpet. With the vac you could grab it in air. 2 hours of doing that 6" at a time. Worked like magic and you can't shake a grain out now. After pressure washing, brushing and vacuuming many times the amount I vibrated out was amazing. Probably 5 coffee cups of sand. 31 years worth.
 
If you're looking for factory Laredo covers for the front seats to match the rear then I know where you can get a set. They are expensive though, $2200.

If you're not doing a nut and bolt, concourse style restoration then those might not be for you. You probably better off (read a lot cheaper!) to have an upholstery shop try to duplicate a set.
 
Ha! The CJADD is definitely real.



Just caught myself in another episode of CJADD...... working on new drivers side seat rider. Have the beat up original bolted in, and need to hang the door to check door / seat clearance. Needed the flashlight on my phone to see why the nut plate doesn't line up with the upper door mount holes. Picked up my phone and HEY - NEW POSTS ON JEEP-CJ..... There went 20 minutes....


Sent from my gas grille using Tapatalk
 
Alec79CJ I am building a weekend pretender. Take on the road and park it beside the mud just for photo ops! Thanks for the offer but I barely plan on on spending $2200 on the complete rebuild! Does that mean my backseat is worth some cash because it is excellent? If so it may be on craigslist in an hour.
 
Alec79CJ I am building a weekend pretender. Take on the road and park it beside the mud just for photo ops! Thanks for the offer but I barely plan on on spending $2200 on the complete rebuild! Does that mean my backseat is worth some cash because it is excellent? If so it may be on craigslist in an hour.

The $2200 is NOS covers and a really good, full set of Laredo seats usually goes for $1200-$2000 depending on location.

Your back seat looks really good so I wouldn't be surprised if you got $500 for it.
 
I got a little time hear and there over the past few days to work. Removed driveshafts, main crossmember, Dana 300 , exaust, several brackets and have Transmission unbolted and broke free. Have tranny chained to several jack stands and hope to get Transmission lift from work today to get it completely out and ready for tear down. Transfer Case is ready and all bolts, bearings and pins soaking. No real issues getting all these out. One of the Dana 300 bolts that was supposed to have the nut come off instead of bolt ended up pulling the entire bolt out. I don't think it's an issue as the bolt just unthreaded from the case and backed out. I checked threads and they look great so I feel I should be able to just run it back in and now I have the nut loose it should be fine. I'm not sure if they were never that or just left out when Jasper engine was installed but it appeared that possibly 2 bolts were missing from bell housing. I think I got 4 or so smaller one and 2 larger 5/8"(1 on each side at about 3:00 & 9:00 position). A hole or 2 did not have anything? Cross member/support for drivetrain is very solid with only a spot of surface rust. I have to look up the small possibly 6" wide x 2" bracket at the very rear of Transmission . The bracket is solid but whatever was between it and cross member is nothing but a gooey, sticky crumbling mess of rubber. I guess it is bushings that dissolved. I am replacing all bolts and bushings on entire vehicle so I'll figure it out and replace. Tranny oil looked good when drained but I'm still doing rebuilds on every component. Dana 300 drain plug had a fair amount of metal shavings on magnetic tip so we will see what the internals look like when I get in it. Next I'm going to try and make my tire decision today and price around. I have a oem set of cj 15x7 rims that are white. I am going to blast them and coat either a matte or semi black. I think I've decided on Duratrac 31x10.5's which should fit the no lift and still be ok if I decide on a 2" lift. I have a decent set of aluminum 16" bullet holes that came on it that I'm gonna throw on craigslist for practically nothing to get them out of the way. Rear drums look like :dung: along with e brake cables and lines so I will be junking all that. Have to replace small bracket on drivers side ride above cat that I believe help support heat shield(also rusted badly and will be replaced) that was in bad shape. So far frame, body mount supports, caged nuts and all have been good. Header and complete exhaust are shot and will be upgraded and replaced. I am leaning towards keeping the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l and rebuilding with some head work, possible cam, header/exhaust and definitely a different carb. Still researching those options. Not interested in efi since will not be a daily driver and I want the bay to be tidy as possible. When I removed all harnesses they looked great so I will most likely reuse and delete all unneeded wiring. It will be bypassed(SC is a non inspection state) and remove all unnecessary tubing and parts. I am keeping all original equipment that will not be used labeled and in boxes just in case. I think I am going to order a new Transfer Case shift handle since that is the one that the threaded handle snapped off when I tried to remove. It snapped the complete threads off in the handle. Thought about trying to weld back but not worth the trouble. I do need to figure out how to get the threaded broken part out of the leather knob. It is in excellent shape and all the replacements I saw are plastic or rubber so I want to use it. That's about all right now. Be back in a few days. I'll add a few more pics now. I can't figure out how to add pics as I go in a post so sorry for the individuals you have to click on. The last pic is one I found of a Cj that has a similar look ride and tire type I would like with original rims.
 

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The knob on my Transfer Case got broken off the stick once also. I found a large chrome ball knob and just used the old stick and fixed the stick. Ground it down and just threaded it and works great. Simple free fix and cost nothing
 
Got the rear of the motor blocked up last night and pulled the tranny and got it sat aside on a dolly. No issues. Tonight if I get some time my plan is to start stripping all accessories, brackets, wires and hoses off engine. If time allows I will go ahead and cherry pick it and place on engine stand also. Thanks to our mechanics at work for loaning me a nice swiveling stand and lift. Is there any value to a rough original Carter carb or just toss? I also grabbed one of the steel 15" rims from a coworker that he had off his 86 jeep and brought home. A slight setback since he neglected to mention his jeep was a Cherokee and the steels on those were 15" x 4.5".... so now I'm looking for a set of originals or if anyone makes a replica already painted black?? I have found some oems on craigslist and such but if I can get an oem replica already painted at a reasonable cost it would save time. Also give the piece of mind of no warped or dented wheels. Time frame is to have the axles, suspension and remaining cables and hoses all off by end of next week. Will wire wheel and flap disc a few areas on frame then blast it at work. Rust proof, prime and paint with rattle cans(thought about powder but trying to budget. Plus they had a fair lead time). Pics soon
 

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