About to replace steering box. What else should be replaced?

About to replace steering box. What else should be replaced?

Flex BT

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Location
Chesterfield, VA
Vehicle(s)
1981 CJ7. I6, Weber 38/38 with TEAMRUSH upgrade. T5, Dana 300TC, Dana 30 / AMC 20, True trac w/ 4.10s. 33" All terrains

Blue and rust colored.
I've got a new steering gear box on order. Is there any other recommended maintenance I should do or bushings / other parts replaced while I've got the old one out before the new one goes in?
 
I'd get a new shaft coupler joint. at least re-pack old ones w/grease, and put a new boot on it. Small CV joint repair boots work for this, if you can't find the correct part.

New pitman as well. No cheap ones, either.

Maybe an aftermarket frame support bracket, as well. replace hardware if rounded or rusted.


If power steering, use a turkey baster to remove old fluid from reservoir pump.Replace hoses if soft.
 
Located inside the steering column, there are a couple of items like a bearing and sleeve or something like that to stop steering wheel wobble. So you might want to check that out.
 
Is the coupler joint in an '81 the 3/4" or 13/16ths? Is one of these what I'm looking for?

Flaming River industries FR1715DD - Flaming River Universal Billet Steering Shaft Joint 3/4"-36 Spline - Quadratec
Flaming River industries FR1758 - Flaming River Universal Billet Steering Shaft Joint 13/16"-36 Spline - Quadratec

Do I need one of these kits as well?

http://www.quadratec.com/products/56113_50.htm

Is a new pitman really necessary or only if the teeth are worn? One of the POs put a drop arm there at some point to compensate for the lift. Still could use the drag arm flip which I'm planning on doing at some point (hopefully when someone will loan me the reamer).
 
Last edited:
Yes, those are what you're looking for. Measure the shafts going in for proper sizing.

The wear part of a pitman arm is the joint where it "bolts" to the steering, not the end it bolts to the box.

If the teeth(called splines) are gone, you have either a poorly hardened steering output shaft, or a poor fit for the pitman arm. spline counts must match. There may be a few different sizes that "look" like the correct part. tou must count and make sure.

Some folks swap in different steering boxes as well. This may be an issue with fluid lines fitting.
 
Cool. I measured the shaft and it's 3/4" but it seems like the joint is solid (immediately responsive in both directions). A waste of $75 or a good move to replace still?
 
I don,t consider a pitman arm a wear item. If it fits tight on th old box use it on the new one.
 
Is the coupler joint in an '81 the 3/4" or 13/16ths? Is one of these what I'm looking for?



Is a new pitman really necessary or only if the teeth are worn? One of the POs put a drop arm there at some point to compensate for the lift. Still could use the drag arm flip which I'm planning on doing at some point (hopefully when someone will loan me the reamer).

Hey Flex BT...

Personally, to do a tie rod/ drag link flip, I'd recommend the kits from Goferit... They only cost about $15 shipped. You buy a regular 3/4 drill bit for the task, not a reamer. There is little guess-work about drilling depth that a reamer could entail. Just drill the knuckle, tap in (and weld) the new insert, and re-install the tie rod....

http://www.goferitoffroad.com/products.htm


You might even be able to get rid of that drop pitman. Go find a stock one in its place. Heck, you might even find someone that would trade yours for his.
 
The lift is pretty high such that with the flip it looks like it would be at the perfect level with the drop arm so I don't think I'd be able to swap it out. I'd looked at the goferit kits but I don't have any welding experience so the other system seemed like a good way to go. I have access to a welder but the neighbor that owns it doesn't have any real good welding experience himself so I'd really be winging it.
 

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