Aftermarket brake kit troubles. Seen this?

Aftermarket brake kit troubles. Seen this?

BIG4D

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Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
Vehicle(s)
1983 CJ7, hard top & doors.
3 in BDS suspension lift.
Stock 4.2 I6
Trans: T4, 4 spd
Xfer: Dana 300
Front Dif: Stock Dana (I believe)
Rear Dif: Stock AMC
Okay, so installing an aftermarket power brake kit on my CJ build. Kit lame with a “Corvette” master cylinder.
Kit fits fine, problem is the lines (they are new stainless lines).
The front line has the larger fitting, the master cylinder has the small fitting in the frame front.
The rear line is the smaller line and the master cylinder is the larger fitting.
Anyone run across this? What did you do?

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Dang that sux, your stainless lines are the same as mine, they did that so you couldn’t mix up the front and rear lines, your aftermarket vette MC should be the same as your lines you might wanna start with a call to your supplier


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A call to the manufacturer might be beneficial, if not a trip to a local brake shop should.
 
Ooph.

Did those lines come with the kit?

I did a MC swap out with a similar 'vette MC as yours...only difference is that the holes and lines from the MC to the PV were all the same size and same size fittings.

The new MC reservoirs were opposite of the MC that was already in the Jeep.

I'd call whoever you bought it from.

I got my stuff from The Jeep Guy. If it was from him, I've had great luck with getting answers from him over email. He's been great to work with and he's answered all of my questions pretty quickly.

Hope this helps.
 
Sounds like someone messed up when manufacturing the master cylinder. I'd call the manufacturer!!!
 
Sounds like someone messed up when manufacturing the master cylinder. I'd call the manufacturer!!!

Either that, or they just messed up packaging and put the wrong lines (or wrong fittings on the lines) in with your kit.

Let us know if you get in touch with the folks you got it from...

Also, where did you get it from? Just curious...
 
Well I heard back from them and they suggested some “adapters”. Turns out this is a common problem when updating a master cylinder. The local Oreilly’s has them in stock.

I got the power brake “kit” off eBay after doing some research.
The stainless lines came from Quadratech.


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I got the power brake “kit” off eBay after doing some research. The stainless lines came from Quadratech.

Now it makes sense. Sounds like you sourced the MC and lines from two different places.

I don't know if an adaptor should be your final solution. I'm not a fan of adding any more connections than necessary in pressurized lines...especially brake lines.

If it were me, I'd make new lines myself. The major part stores rent out double flaring tools and they'll have brake line and fittings in stock. You'll need a bending tool if you use stainless lines. I recently replaced all my brake lines and used Nickel-Copper lines. There are differing opinions on using anything copper for brake lines, but what I used is rated for the pressures needed for the brake system. NiCop is much easier to bend and unless you need a tight angle more than 60 degrees or so, you can bend by hand.
 
Just completed the same swap this weekend. When going from non-power to power brakes you have to swap the lines around. Move the front to the rear and the rear to the front. My brakes work perfect now. Also, make sure your booster is not pushing in on your master cylinder when you are bolting them together. Mine had a spacer rod that had to be trimmed. If it is pushing on the master cylinder more than 1/16th of an inch you will have issues
 
I have seen where a lot of people swap them like this. The problem is, this engages the rear brakes before the fronts. The front calipers need something called “quick take up”, meaning the caliper pistons retract further into the bore more than the older style. If you swap the lines on one of these style master cylinders, you loose the master cylinders ability to quickly move the piston out before the actual high pressure braking takes place.
You can see this when you bleed the master cylinder. The front reservoir will squirt fluid up through a small hole in the bottom. As the piston in the master cylinder more a little further forward, it closes this hole and high pressure braking starts.
I ended up finding some adapters and making it work correctly. Works perfectly now.


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