AMC20 axle - removing the brake backing plate

AMC20 axle - removing the brake backing plate

DHugg

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Vehicle(s)
'80 CJ7 304AMC crate with 8KMiles: MC2100 - AMC20 rear w/Superiors - Dana30 front - TF999 - Dana300TC - 35x12.5's - Tilt steer column - Flaming Rvr EZ-Steer Shaft - AGR Super Pump - AGR Super Box II - RockyRidge HD Brace - New home-designed digital TEMP - GAS - OILPR - CALIBRATE gauges.
Superior says they will ship the one-piece axles for my '80 CJ7 within two days, from their California facility. I need to get the brake backing plates off and clean parts, ready for new brake parts I have in hand. But how do I get the backing plate off when I can't get the hub off?

This puller just isn't hacking it!
So I decided, now that I have surrendered to wiser counsel and purchased Superior One-piece axles, to simply cut away the inner bearings and slip off the brake backing plate. I use a Dremel Tool cutter a lot; thought it might do the job.


I bought some extra cutting wheels, Dremel code #420, the heavy-duty ones. The “skinny” cutters, #409, are really sensitive to lateral loads.


To make the cut, I put on some goggles (eyes are the easiest part damaged, and most important part at risk), propped the inner bearing race away from the backing plate with a screwdriver, and began.

I surprised myself by making the two cuts on each of two inner bearing races without breaking a single cutter! A couple of relatively soft whacks with 4lb hammer and cold chisel, and the race is split. A quick pair of cuts on the bearing cage (a pretty soft metal), a twist of the pliers, and you are done.

I was a bit surprised at the wear tracks on the brake shoe slider surfaces of the brake backing plate. I guess I had never seen one that has gone so long un-greased. My father, and now me as I was coached to do by him, always pulled down brakes every two years and checked them out while repacking wheel bearings.

I intend to dress off the worn ridges, polish the area, all with an assortment of grinding stones chucked in a 3/8 drive electric drill. It looks like there is enough metal there to hold up after a bit is removed. The brakes have to slip freely or they will bind, and be just about the equivalent of No Brakes!


My desire is to have my CJ looking as good inside the mechanical parts as it does on the outside.


 
Great write up!

The backing plate looks like most typical CJ's, all those years of dirt and grime tend to wear a little hard on the plate - as you said - just smooth it down and you'll be OK... :)
 
Thats pretty much how I did mine. I just pulled the whole axle out and cut off the bearing. Now with a one piece axle it is the only way you can do it.
 
I have always had better luck getting axles out using a slide hammer, but as usual every Jeep is different....and great write up.
 
mine took $15.00 and a 40 TON press !!
radman
 
When you get your superior axles would you please measure how wide the bearing retaining ring is for me?:beer: Here's a beer for your trouble.
 
I'll do almost anything for a beer! I'll measure, and report back, but it'll take at least a week. Superior says waiting for one part to fill the kit; should ship out by Friday.
 

This puller just isn't hacking it!

I used to have an '82 CJ7 that I spun the axle shaft in the hub. I tried to remove the hub but I couldn't find a puller big and strong enough to pull it off. Since I already spun the hub the woodruff key was mangled and the extra metal inside the hub prevented it from coming off. What I did was put the axle nut back on very loosely. I put the cotter pin back on and then the wheel. I put the Jeep back on the ground. I gave it some gas and popped the clutch. I did it carefully enough that the jeep didn't even move a foot. That spun the axle enough that when I jacked the jeep up again I could easily remove the hub.
Sometimes the textbook approach just won't cut it in the real world.
 
Last edited:
I used to have an '82 CJ7 that I spun the axle shaft in the hub. I tried to remove the hub but I couldn't find a puller big and strong enough to pull it off. Since I already spun the hub the woodruff key was mangled and the extra metal inside the hub prevented it from coming off. What I did was put the axle nut back on very loosely. I put the cotter pin back on and then the wheel. I put the Jeep back on the ground. I gave it some gas and popped the clutch. I did it carefully enough that the jeep didn't even move a foot. That spun the axle enough that when I jacked the jeep up again I could easily remove the hub.
Sometimes the texbook aproach just won't cut it in the real world.

Where theres a will the true Jeeper finds a way!:chug:
 

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