Anyone in central MD good with carbs??

Anyone in central MD good with carbs??

stsvt07

Jeeper
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Location
Edgewood, MD
Vehicle(s)
1984 CJ7 4.2L 258 5 speed
So I'm new to this site. I've used it for a lot of good information about my cj, but never posted a thread, so let me know if I do anything wrong.
Here's the story. I live in Harford County, MD. I have an 84 CJ7 that I'm trying to put a MC2100 on. I took everything off from the carter. I have done everything I can think of to get this thing running, even bought a new carb., but I can't seem to fix it. It idles at 3500 rpm, and I immediately shut it off so that I do not ruin the engine. I had it idling at one point at 650 rpm's, but as soon as i hit the gas it went to 3500 and has stayed there ever since. We are trying to sell our house, and I need to be able to drive this to the new one. If someone is in the area, or I can even meet you somewhere and drive, I need this thing fixed, any day/time after this friday. I can pay 100-200 dollars, you decide how much, even if it only takes you 5 minutes to fix, I will still pay. I need it set up for non-smog, because it is historic, but still would like to be able to take it on drives up to 3 hours.
Thank you.

Again, let me know if this is posted in the wrong spot or anything and I will fix it ASAP.
 
Also, I have tried everything I can, I am just not really good with carburetors. This being said, I am not looking for any more information on how to fix it, I am just looking for someone who can. I know many of you encourage fixing it myself, as a learning process, and for gratification... and I would normally encourage the same, I just cannot seem to fix this, and I've run out of time to try.
 
It sounds like you are hanging up the throttle plate, possibly the gasket is catching it and not letting it return. look down the carb and see if the plates are closing. If not find what it is hanging up on.:cool:
 
I know you said you were not liiking for info, but it has to be something like IO said, or might just be the chokes high idel screw is turned way in.
If you look in at the butterflys as IO suggested, are they closing all the way?
 
Haven't had a chance to check it out because of all this rain, but as soon as i do I'll let ya know. Also, my idle screw by the choke is all the way in, I couldn't figure out how this affected the carb at all, so I just put it in all the way. I don't know if it's catching on the butterflies, but I'll take the whole thing off as soon as I can to see if it is. Thanks for your input.:D
 
Got it idling good again:D... but it stills continues to rev high after I let off the gas:mad:. I checked everything out and it looks like the two stage power valve is sticking in. When I give it gas, the power valve is pulled down, towards the body of the carb, and stays down, if I pull the top of the power valve back up, the rpm's go back to idle. Anyone know why this would be, and/or how to solve it. Any help would be appreciated.:)
 
where did the MC2100 come from?? Is this as easy as taking it to auto zone and getting another one?
 
I got it from the eBay guy:mad:. I guess I could mail it back and get a new one, if he allowed it, but I don't think it's the carb itself, I think it's something that needs to be adjusted.
Here's the update...
It idles perfect, but when I hit the gas, even after I let off the pedal, the rpm's continue to rise up to about 4000. So, if I tap the gas to 1000 rpm's, then let go of the pedal, the rpms will shoot all the way up and continue until I shut the engine off. I can then turn the engine back on, and it will idle great again. The problem even occurs when the engine is warm. Also, I cleaned out the jets, metering rods, etc. It is not the power valve on top, I disconnected the linkage for this, and the problem still occurred. It is also not the dizzy vac line or the pcv valve line... I did the same with these, disconnected them, and the problem still occurred. I also played around with the accelerator pump linkage, and nothing changed. I am STUMPED!
Again, any and all help is GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!
 
I guess I would go buy a kit for it and use the little gauges and such and check everything that was done. I think you just have an adjustment problem.:cool:
just chill , take a deep breath and find the problem. It's just a machine.
 
Got it idling good again:D... but it stills continues to rev high after I let off the gas:mad:. I checked everything out and it looks like the two stage power valve is sticking in. When I give it gas, the power valve is pulled down, towards the body of the carb, and stays down, if I pull the top of the power valve back up, the rpm's go back to idle. Anyone know why this would be, and/or how to solve it. Any help would be appreciated.:)

What are you calling the power valve, the power valve is inside the carb
not where you could grap it and pull it back up.:confused:
I think some pic's would help here.
 
What are you calling the power valve, the power valve is inside the carb
not where you could grap it and pull it back up.:confused:
I think some pic's would help here.

I'm sorry, not the power valve, the pull off, on top of the carb... it immediately sucks in and lifts up the choke plate.
 
I'm sorry, not the power valve, the pull off, on top of the carb... it immediately sucks in and lifts up the choke plate.

Reading up on this though, it seems as though that's exactly what it's supposed to do. I'm thinking that it has something to do with the choke plates opening up too much, and the vacuum pressure pulling in too much fuel when the choke plate is open. I'll check it out again today and keep you guys updated, and again, thank you for your help.
 
just a machine.

Reading up on this though, it seems as though that's exactly what it's supposed to do. I'm thinking that it has something to do with the choke plates opening up too much, and the vacuum pressure pulling in too much fuel when the choke plate is open. I'll check it out again today and keep you guys updated, and again, thank you for your help.
 
Just an update, it was the throttle return spring. It was strong enough to pull the throttle back when the engine was off, but not with the engine running. I feel like an IDIOT!, but at least it was a cheap fix:D. Unfortunately, I finally got it working, put a new valve cover on, and when I went to start it up, the ignition switch rod disconnected from the rack, so it's not doing anything right now:mad::mad:. So, looks like I have another little project on my hands. I've already taken the steering wheel off, but it seems like the rack is a little hard to get to, and I really don't feel like taking the tilt off. Hope this whole thing doesn't mess up the ignition switch also.
 
OK, so, as of right now, everything is working great. Still gotta adjust the idle a little (it's at 1000 right now). The ignition problem was a little part called a rack kit, mopar part #4147364, coming in at a whopping $70.75. That's way more than I'll spend for a piece of metal the size of a car key. So, i bypassed that easily and now I'm good to go. Again, thank you all for your help and support. Also, a little sales pitch here. I don't appear to qualify for classified ads on here, so if anyone is interested, EDITED:)

Note: Edited by CJ
 
You know, instead of bypassing our rules, just a few more posts would have made you eligible to use our classifieds. I offer this site free to those who wish to participate, so why not participate and help others? Why would you thank our site for all the help and then try and sneak in a sales pitch? In my eyes - that is not cool. I haven't decided if I will edit your post or not.
 
Pretty sure I clearly stated "just a little sales pitch here", I don't really see how that's being sneaky. I also don't see why it's such a problem to you. If I had the ability to post it on the classifieds I would, but I don't. I'm trying to help others out by offering something to them that they might have been looking for to restore their cj back to it's original state. Also, I don't have a lot of experience or knowledge about jeeps to be able to offer anyone any advice, as you can see from the amount of questions I've had about my own. Accusing new members of being "sneaky" when they're just trying to help people out is really going to turn away a lot of potentially good help. I am a beginner, and am in no way ready to be giving other people advice on how to fix their jeep, when I am having a hard time fixing my own. I certainly don't appreciate being accused of something when I am trying to do my part to help out others in the best possible way I can. If you have a problem with my post, delete it.
 
Pretty sure I clearly stated "just a little sales pitch here", I don't really see how that's being sneaky. I also don't see why it's such a problem to you. If I had the ability to post it on the classifieds I would, but I don't. I'm trying to help others out by offering something to them that they might have been looking for to restore their cj back to it's original state.
It is a problem because you decided that you could circumvent our rules. This is not up for debate. All others follow them, why do you feel you should be exempt?

Again - your statement -" I also don't see why it's such a problem to you. If I had the ability to post it on the classifieds I would, but I don't" - there is a reason for that, our rules dictate that you must have ten posts before you can make a classified ad. You are aware of the rule and yet you decided to bypass it.

The truly pathetic thing about your situation is, if you had just made one post in our forums instead of arguing with me, you would have been eligible to make a classified ad. You now have enough posts.

Ironic huh?

For all potential members, our rules are simple and easy. There are just a few to follow and that were agreed apon at registration.

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