Anyone Use the Stainless steel bolt replacement kits

Anyone Use the Stainless steel bolt replacement kits

FiNorman

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Orlando, FL
Vehicle(s)
1985 CJ7, AMC 360, lunati cam, AX15, Affordable Fuel Injection, edelbrock performer manifold, 21 gallon fuel tank, Old Man Emu 2.5 inch lift, 1 inch body lift, tie rod flip, HMMWV H1 steering box, rear disc brake conversion, Dana 44 rear, YJ to CJ tub conversion, still working on 33 inch tires, Metallic dark blue paint.

Scrambler Project, cosmetically taking it back to the 80's- 1984 Scrambler, Laredo. 258cc, Holley Sniper EFI, 30in tires on Laredo polished wheels, Dana 44 rear, OME 2.5 YJ springs/lift, HMMWV steering box

Previously owned cj 7, 1979, Renegade, 258 and a '89 wrangler
I'm in the process of doing an off frame restoration and I have broken a couple of bolts, others were rusted beyond repair. As I was browsing to find replacements I ran across this kit. http://www.quadratec.com/products/13019_204.htm

Has anyone ever used it? Is it was pretty complete and if not what else would I need to replace.
Would you recommend it to others.
I will be replacing the suspension with an OME system and will be using their bolts and bushings so I won't need those pieces of hardware.
thanks in advance.
 
I'm in the process of doing an off frame restoration and I have broken a couple of bolts, others were rusted beyond repair. As I was browsing to find replacements I ran across this kit. Totally Stainless 6-2486 - Stainless Steel Body Assembly Hardware (Hex Head) for 76-86 Jeep® CJ-7 with Hard Top (795 Pieces) - Quadratec

Has anyone ever used it? Is it was pretty complete and if not what else would I need to replace.
Would you recommend it to others.
I will be replacing the suspension with an OME system and will be using their bolts and bushings so I won't need those pieces of hardware.
thanks in advance.

:)That stainless kit is OK for anything that is non-structural. Stainless tends to be brittle and needs to be installed with anti-seeze whether going into another stainless nut or any dis-similar metals........loves to gall the threads.
:D:D:D:D
 
:)That stainless kit is OK for anything that is non-structural. Stainless tends to be brittle and needs to be installed with anti-seeze whether going into another stainless nut or any dis-similar metals........loves to gall the threads.
:D:D:D:D

When you say non structural do you mean everything outside of suspension?

In other words I will be using the hardware for the shocks, springs from the lift kit, and using a 1"inch body lift so I will be using that hardware for the body mounts. Is there anything else I'm missing.
 
When you say non structural do you mean everything outside of suspension?

In other words I will be using the hardware for the shocks, springs from the lift kit, and using a 1"inch body lift so I will be using that hardware for the body mounts. Is there anything else I'm missing.

sounds good, I like the stainless on all of the body and interior stuff, and Grade 8 for the frame/supension/axle/ and engine :chug:
 
When you say non structural do you mean everything outside of suspension?

In other words I will be using the hardware for the shocks, springs from the lift kit, and using a 1"inch body lift so I will be using that hardware for the body mounts. Is there anything else I'm missing.

:)Non structural: Body mounts , dash , windshield,Grill, Etc.
Anything that your going to put a torque on is structural........Shocks would be OK ........shackles , steering , motor mounts, Transfer Case mounts I would use a Grade 8 bolt.
Because stainless is brittle it will work harden and shear , so any area that sees movement and has the possibility of shear I would stay away from. I have mentioned shocks being OK even though they are on shear in the mount because the shock is not rigid.
I thought most of those stainless kits were just for the non-structural cosmetic Items anyway!
:D:D:D:D
 
I like the stainless on all of the body and interior stuff, and Grade 8 for the frame/supension/axle/ and engine :chug:

:agree:kinda what I did. But I bought what I needed at a bolt store here in town. I have a fiberglass body though so I needed special sizses.
 
I used the same package from Totally Stainless and opted for the OEM style. The hex bolts were similar to OEM but the Torx fasteners original to the Jeep were replaced by internal hex (Allen style) in the kit. The tend to strip easier in my experience and I used my originals for the windshield and door hinges. I too used grade 8 on anything I considered structural such as steering box, engine mounts, suspension etc. FYI there are specialty lubricants out there specifically designed to prevent galling on stainless but I've found liquid teflon thread sealant works almost as good.
 
I used the same package from Totally Stainless and opted for the OEM style. The hex bolts were similar to OEM but the Torx fasteners original to the Jeep were replaced by internal hex (Allen style) in the kit. The tend to strip easier in my experience and I used my originals for the windshield and door hinges. I too used grade 8 on anything I considered structural such as steering box, engine mounts, suspension etc. FYI there are specialty lubricants out there specifically designed to prevent galling on stainless but I've found liquid teflon thread sealant works almost as good.

Did the kit happen to tell you what bolt went where? One do the advantages that I thought I would get from the kit was get replacements for the bolts I've broken or misplaced.

As I'm going through the build my son will sweep the floor and come up with a bunch of nuts, washers and bolts we have no idea where they came from.
 
Yes it did. Every set of hardware (dashboard for instance) was in its own thermal sealed bag with a printed label in a sealed section of it so the label was protected. Most, if not all, of the hardware fit and I don't recall anything specific right now that didn't.
 
I didn't buy the totally emcompassed kit. I bought all my stainless from a local mom and pop store. Had them bag it separately and so far I've spent less than 20 bux. I got bolts for the tailgate hinges, dash, tail light lens, fuel bezel, door hinges, air cowl, tranny cover plate, hood hinges, and enough to bolt down the diamond plate that will be last thing to go on.
 
:)That stainless kit is OK for anything that is non-structural. Stainless tends to be brittle and needs to be installed with anti-seeze whether going into another stainless nut or any dis-similar metals........loves to gall the threads.
:D:D:D:D
I have used a lot of stainless bolts over the years and most of the common alloys are anything but brittle. The reason you need antiseize is because they are soft and very easily gall-even if stainless on stainless. The bolts in those kits are highly likely AMC 304 SS and would be about a grade 3 if such existed. You can get stainless bolts that are about the same strength as grade 8, you just will not like the price.

A good source for any of the stainless bolts or other stainless hardware is McMaster-Carr. Not as cheap as Fastenal, but then you don't need to buy them in minimum quantity of 100.

One other thing is if you use blue thread locker, it works just as good as antisieze and dispenses with the lock washers. I have yet to have a ss fastener gall with the thread locker.
 
I didn't buy the totally emcompassed kit. I bought all my stainless from a local mom and pop store. Had them bag it separately and so far I've spent less than 20 bux. I got bolts for the tailgate hinges, dash, tail light lens, fuel bezel, door hinges, air cowl, tranny cover plate, hood hinges, and enough to bolt down the diamond plate that will be last thing to go on.



Did you have a list of all bolt sizes/threads, or did you make one?


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