Back from alignment shop. Opinions?....

[JohnKcj5]

From what I've read, the CJ's like to be around 6dgrs caster. Right?
My caster doesn't match from side to side and shims are sold in pairs.
Should I go with 3dgr or 4dgr shims? 4dgr will put one side over the 6dgr point.

The tech mentioned how my leaf springs don't sit straight under the shackle mounts. The homemade shackles(previous owner) lean a little one way or the other. They also flex a bit when sitting still. I think I'll get some good braced shackles and new bushings.

He also said the camber is non-adjustable and the right wheel measurement is due to a worn balljoint, or bent axle. I'll replace both balljoints and see what happens. I see that there are camber shims available too.

Camber
Left- -.6dgrs
Right- -1.2dgrs (tech suggested worn balljoint or bent axle)

Caster
Left- 2.7dgrs
Right- 2dgrs

Toe
Left- -.12dgrs
Right- -.2dgrs

 

[Lumpy Grits]

6*-7* is good on caster.
Your 2 sides ain't that far off...Go with 4* shims.
Only use steel shims for the Caster-NOT the alum-zinc made ones.
Toe end is easy to set yourownself. You want a total of .125(1/8").

LG

 

[JohnKcj5]

Thanks, lumpy. How about camber? I've heard of adjustable upper ball joints.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Thanks, lumpy. How about camber? I've heard of adjustable upper ball joints.

After you get the caster set. Find a known flat road and see how the jeep 'tracks', as in does it pull to the right or left.
If it tracks straight-Your camber is fine.
Before you do this-Make sure your tire pressure is 'rite'.
LG

 

[JohnKcj5]

Even as it sits, it doesn't track on a good surface. I can drive 70mph on the interstate no problem. It's on those secondary paved roads that have grooves worn in them that makes it dart around. Constant corrections. Tire pressure is 28 up front and 26 in the rear. Maybe it's just a lifted CJ5 thing. I'll see how it handles after the caster shims and go from there. Ball joints, tie rod ends, bearings, steering gear, etc..were replaced a few years ago in my chase to improve the handling. Didn't make any difference.

 

[j6824]

Even as it sits, it doesn't track on a good surface. I can drive 70mph on the interstate no problem. It's on those secondary paved roads that have grooves worn in them that makes it dart around. Constant corrections. Tire pressure is 28 up front and 26 in the rear. Maybe it's just a lifted CJ5 thing. I'll see how it handles after the caster shims and go from there. Ball joints, tie rod ends, bearings, steering gear, etc..were replaced a few years ago in my chase to improve the handling. Didn't make any difference.

FWIW, you might try dropping your tire pressure a smidge. I ran mine at 26-28 and had the same issue (even after redoing all the steering components)...tried it at around 22...like a whole different vehicle altogether

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Even as it sits, it doesn't track on a good surface. I can drive 70mph on the interstate no problem. It's on those secondary paved roads that have grooves worn in them that makes it dart around. Constant corrections. Tire pressure is 28 up front and 26 in the rear. Maybe it's just a lifted CJ5 thing. I'll see how it handles after the caster shims and go from there. Ball joints, tie rod ends, bearings, steering gear, etc..were replaced a few years ago in my chase to improve the handling. Didn't make any difference.

Check tracking again, AFTER you correct the caster..........
LG

 

[Belizean]

FWIW, you might try dropping your tire pressure a smidge. I ran mine at 26-28 and had the same issue (even after redoing all the steering components)...tried it at around 22...like a whole different vehicle altogether

Lower pressure makes it ride a lot smoother also

 

[Torxhead]

Some time ago this guy posted some great info on the CJ suspension system and correcting it:http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f99/troubleshooting-correcting-your-steering-4106/

 

[Kane]

Even as it sits, it doesn't track on a good surface. I can drive 70mph on the interstate no problem. It's on those secondary paved roads that have grooves worn in them that makes it dart around. Constant corrections. Tire pressure is 28 up front and 26 in the rear. Maybe it's just a lifted CJ5 thing. I'll see how it handles after the caster shims and go from there. Ball joints, tie rod ends, bearings, steering gear, etc..were replaced a few years ago in my chase to improve the handling. Didn't make any difference.

It darts around because of the low amount of caster. My CJ5 had 7 degrees and it tracked dead straight.

I set up my Scrambler with 8 degrees and 1/8 toe and it drives perfectly straight and I can even let go of the wheel at 75mph and it doesn't veer off at all.

 

[jp360cj]

6*-7* is good on caster.
Your 2 sides ain't that far off...Go with 4* shims.
Only use steel shims for the Caster-NOT the alum-zinc made ones.
Toe end is easy to set yourownself. You want a total of .125(1/8").

LG

This^^....

It darts around because of the low amount of caster. My CJ5 had 7 degrees and it tracked dead straight.

I set up my Scrambler with 8 degrees and 1/8 toe and it drives perfectly straight and I can even let go of the wheel at 75mph and it doesn't veer off at all.

And this^^ 100%. Correct the caster then reassess.

 

[JohnKcj5]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I will install 4dgr caster shims and assess. I will then try lowering the tire pressure. If nothing else, maybe my teeth will stop rattling out of my mouth. I will follow up for the next poor guy that searches for a solution.

 

[JohnKcj5]

Finally finished up the adjustments and took it for a ride on the same road that always made it a pain to drive. Man, what a difference. No more darting and unexpected lane changes. Now I just bounce over those sharp dips even if they run diagonal across the road. The steering wheel almost completely straightens itself when coming out of a turn. It's actually fun to drive now. So, I'm calling it a day on the suspension.

So here's what I ended up doing.

4* steel caster shims to bring it up to 6*
Your spring pin will probably be to short. Go to Lowes and buy a grade 8, 5/16 socket head cap screw and nut. It works perfectly.


Adjusted toe in to 3/16". It was positive 3/16"!
Buy a piece of 6' angle iron from lowes for ~16 bucks. Cut it in half and bungy cord it to each side of the wheel at the same distance from the floor. I placed them about where they are in the pictures I've found.

Don't pay someone to do this. It's too easy. Firestone always does free alignment checks and will give you a nice color printout.

Thanks to all for the advice.