ball joint removal
ball joint removal
- Thread starter steve801
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hole
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Nothing specific for an 83. I picked up a ball joint press from HF for less than $40 and it worked on 3 out of 4, needed a bfh and a couple of old sockets for the last one. Moog makes one that has grease fittings. HTH 
gutthans
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I did not like the Harbor Freight kit. I found a specific ball joint removal set at NAPA for Dana 30 /general 4WD use. This set has a notch on one side of the socket specifically to clear the riser on the Dana axle...I'll post the number after I get home if no one else does.
I run MOOG only. Do yourself a favor and get the Greasable upper/lower set. They have an offset pair for caster correction as well, although I have heard that these do wear faster than the standard style.
I run MOOG only. Do yourself a favor and get the Greasable upper/lower set. They have an offset pair for caster correction as well, although I have heard that these do wear faster than the standard style.
gutthans
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The NAPA Part# 3479 is the Ball Joint Adapter set for Dana axles. It will run you about $128.00 AND work for other 4x4's.
The 4WD Harbor Freight set DOES NOT INCLUDE a Dana specific socket. It can work, but is not shaped properly and requires a bit of finesse on the part of the user. If you have ever had the 'correct' removal socket, you would know exactly why NAPA is a worthwhile expense.
Doing your own is well worth it. It's about $50-72 per joint (about $200 for the parts). Labor will run $300-700...I have had a shop with a good reputation 'replace' ball joints that I found months later to have not been done as was charged...I found the explanation for months of DW and endless tightening of bolts and replacing other parts when I tore it down to the axle mounting
The 4WD Harbor Freight set DOES NOT INCLUDE a Dana specific socket. It can work, but is not shaped properly and requires a bit of finesse on the part of the user. If you have ever had the 'correct' removal socket, you would know exactly why NAPA is a worthwhile expense.
Doing your own is well worth it. It's about $50-72 per joint (about $200 for the parts). Labor will run $300-700...I have had a shop with a good reputation 'replace' ball joints that I found months later to have not been done as was charged...I found the explanation for months of DW and endless tightening of bolts and replacing other parts when I tore it down to the axle mounting
Old Dog
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I also use the 4X4 H.F. kit. never had any real problems with it. The BFH also comes in handy.
CJ
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The NAPA set is a KD tool, I have them and they work very well.
steve801
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Thanks guys for all the info…
The CJ service manual says you have to remove the steering knuckle with a hammer, and then with a vise holding the knuckle, press the ball joints out. Why can’t I try and press the ball joints out with the steering knuckle still attached to the axel yoke?
The CJ service manual says you have to remove the steering knuckle with a hammer, and then with a vise holding the knuckle, press the ball joints out. Why can’t I try and press the ball joints out with the steering knuckle still attached to the axel yoke?
gutthans
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The manual is correct. It is physically not possible to remove joints without removing the knuckle first. You could try, but there will be no way to stabilize pressure against the joint. The ball mount will disintegrate internally, the C-clamp will always cock and slip. You have to have the knuckle out of the way to reinstall the joints straight as well...Trust me and everyone else who might choose to answer this...FOLLOW the MANUAL
steve801
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I've been beating on that sucker and it will not budge!
gutthans
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I know . Get the biggest hammer you can (3 lbs at least)...soak the knuckle area in PB Blaster, WD-40 or whatever you have...many times (like for half a day at least...there is a raised, flat spot on the front edge of the knuckle that is the 'hit' point for the hammer blow...strike it straight down. You'll feel like you are going to destroy the thing...it has to be that hard.
If it's really rusty/stuck you'll need a propane type torch to blow over the knuckle near the joint. I put an ice cube on the joint right after I heat the knuckle a little...then give it hell with the hammer and repeat until it lets go
Also helps to give LIGHT lateral taps around the circumference at the top and bottom where the joint passes through...Oh, and btw...the internal cup in one or both joint WILL be destroyed by this because of the stuckness so trash them when you get them out...don't be tempted to reuse one.
. Get the biggest hammer you can (3 lbs at least)...soak the knuckle area in PB Blaster, WD-40 or whatever you have...many times (like for half a day at least...there is a raised, flat spot on the front edge of the knuckle that is the 'hit' point for the hammer blow...strike it straight down. You'll feel like you are going to destroy the thing...it has to be that hard.If it's really rusty/stuck you'll need a propane type torch to blow over the knuckle near the joint. I put an ice cube on the joint right after I heat the knuckle a little...then give it hell with the hammer and repeat until it lets go
Also helps to give LIGHT lateral taps around the circumference at the top and bottom where the joint passes through...Oh, and btw...the internal cup in one or both joint WILL be destroyed by this because of the stuckness so trash them when you get them out...don't be tempted to reuse one.
steve801
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Are you saying I should hit the "flat spot on the front edge of the knuckle" instead of hitting the threaded stem of the ball joint?
gutthans
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ABSOFLIPPINLUTELY
You hit the knuckle itself to pop it off both joints. Usually, one will pop free first (and drop the knuckle a tiny amount, then the other pops and the knuckle drops off (so keep toes out of the way).
The cast in 'flat spot' is SPECIFICALLY FOR HITTING WITH HAMMER...it was made that way. Just below the upper ball joint hole, in the fattest part of the knuckle, slightly towards the front arm you will see a raised and flattened area about 1" x 1/2"...Hit that. Hitting the ball joint will destroy it and (if you weren't going to replace it) you will have to replace it now.
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steve801
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I'm glad you told me that!!!!!!
thank you
thank you
steve801
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something is screwy here!?!
It looks like the manual shows the ball joint is pressed in from the top, and it looks like my actual ball joint is pressed in from the bottom!
(pictures attached).......so can I press it out without removing the knuckle first as the manual suggests?
It looks like the manual shows the ball joint is pressed in from the top, and it looks like my actual ball joint is pressed in from the bottom!
(pictures attached).......so can I press it out without removing the knuckle first as the manual suggests?
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gutthans
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| Repair Guides | Front Suspension | Steering Knuckle And Ball Joints | AutoZone.com
Let me correct myself on the CJ5 ...the knuckle is installed backwards to the CJ7 and later models. Basically the knuckle is pulled into position by the torque on the nuts. On disassembly, it's the reverse...but the joints will come out attached to the knuckle, and then are removed.
Since the joints are pressed into the knuckle, then the assembly drawn up to the yoke you do have to remove the assembly, then press out the joints or drift them out as the manual options. There won't be room or proper angle to do it on the axle yoke. Sorry I forgot the model changeover...Oh, put the nut on a few threads on the upper before you bang the knuckle with the hammer...once it pops loose you can remove the nut and drop the knuckle.
Let me correct myself on the CJ5 ...the knuckle is installed backwards to the CJ7 and later models. Basically the knuckle is pulled into position by the torque on the nuts. On disassembly, it's the reverse...but the joints will come out attached to the knuckle, and then are removed.
Since the joints are pressed into the knuckle, then the assembly drawn up to the yoke you do have to remove the assembly, then press out the joints or drift them out as the manual options. There won't be room or proper angle to do it on the axle yoke. Sorry I forgot the model changeover...Oh, put the nut on a few threads on the upper before you bang the knuckle with the hammer...once it pops loose you can remove the nut and drop the knuckle.
steve801
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I do appreciate your time with this...i'll keep you posted unless of course I opt out, and hit myself in the head with the hammer instead.
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One of the best tools for working on a Jeep is a BFH
bptactical
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Trick to popping ball joints if you don't have a pickle fork.
Requires 2 BFH's so it is twice as fun.
Loosen the nuts, soak the studs with PB or Kroil.
Now take one BFH and and hold it on the side of the eye for the stud, take the other hammer and smack the eye smartly directly opposite of the hammer you are holding against it.
The shock value will pop the taper free.
Repeat for the other side, you may have to do it a couple of times to pop both studs free.
Works well for tie rods or any other tapered stud.
Requires 2 BFH's so it is twice as fun.
Loosen the nuts, soak the studs with PB or Kroil.
Now take one BFH and and hold it on the side of the eye for the stud, take the other hammer and smack the eye smartly directly opposite of the hammer you are holding against it.
The shock value will pop the taper free.
Repeat for the other side, you may have to do it a couple of times to pop both studs free.
Works well for tie rods or any other tapered stud.
steve801
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I want to thank all you guys for your insight. I took the front axle out (I was going to replace the springs anyway) and with a very BFH (an eight pound sledge) and an old torsion bar that fit perfect on that sweet spot Gutthans told me about, I had all the leverage I needed. Quite a sense of satisfaction when that knuckle popped!
