Body lift removal + 4° caster = heeeavy steering

Body lift removal + 4° caster = heeeavy steering

Tremelune

Jeeper
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Location
Hollywoo
Vehicle(s)
'83 CJ7 - 258, T5, D30, AMC 20 Detroit locker, D300
I have an '83 CJ7 I've been trying to correct the steering on, and I've hit a snag...After removing a 2" body lift and adding 4° caster shims (for a total of 6.5°), my steering went from very light to very heavy. I'm aware that increasing caster makes steering more difficult, but I think something just isn't right.

The steering is just about as heavy at 40mph as 4mph. As I turn the wheel through a tight turn, I can feel stiff "spots" that come and go as the wheel turns. It feels like the gears or joints are too "tight" in spots. A weird thing is the the "slop" is gone now—there used to be quite a bit of play when changing from left to right, but that's gone now. The steering wheel does not return to center when released—indeed, it stays fast where it is.

It's almost as if lowering the body has jammed the steering column hard into the steering box. My understanding is that this column is telescopic, though, and should have just squished itself in length as the car was lowered. It looks like the previous owner knocked out the plastic pin for the column when installing the body lift, but who knows, really.

Maybe I torqued the tub in some way when tightening down the body mount bolts? They don't all line up perfectly, and I didn't use shims/spacers, though there was maybe a quarter inch of them on the driver's side when I removed the lift (that I attributed to the previous owner trying to compensate for lean due to worn springs).

Other pertinents: It has 33"x12.5" mud tires, a 2.5" Rancho spring lift, and wheels of unknown backspacing (thought I believe they stick out further than stock. Even with those monsters, the steering was very light before the change. My toe-out is out of spec, but I don't believe it would cause this. There is a Rancho steering stabilizer that may have shifted slightly while I was getting the shims installed.

It's like steering is overly tight, as opposed to overly heavy. It's just weird. Any ideas on what I can inspect or isolate?
 
I just lifted the car up so the wheels are off the ground, started it so the power steering works, and it's still very tight and binds as I turned it...I think there's something up between the steering wheel and the pitman arm...

Is there a way to get some information visually, or am I stuck taking things apart...?
 
A 2" body lift is quite a bit, and usually requires an extension of the steering shaft. You just might have an extension of some sort on your steering shaft that is jamming up your steering. You might try disconnecting that shaft to check for any load on it. I think that the little nylon pin you mentioned is for any collapse that will be caused from a collision. I have since changed out my oem shaft to the expensive Borgeson type.
 
Welded steering shaft.

I...I guess I should have looked closer.

I'm gonna pull it out and see if I can get it to telescope and maybe put a nylon pin back in.

Sounds like I'll have to pull the column, too...
 
Just a friendly suggestion dont call a jeep a car. Some people get very offended
 
We really need to see some pictures from the steering box and linkage etc.
Do you run a dropped drag-link?
If so-Might be binding and such now.
LG
 
I couldn't cut the weld without getting to the point where it seemed unsafe, so I cut the shaft off and will replace it with a Borgeson 000910 (unless someone sells me on the 000920 "vibration reducer").

shaft-pieces.jpg

I'm in for a penny. I also plan to replace the shaft/column bearing by the firewall (Crown was the best I could find), the the wheel turns pretty smoothly. Anything else I should be doing while I'm in here? Do I need to save that weird joint and housing on the steering box end, or does the Borgeson shaft replace it?

There seems to be quite a bit of play in the steering box...This is how much it twists while the pitman arm remains static...Is this normal?

https://ensaster.compics/vehicles/seasons/steering/steering-box-play.mp4
 
Stay away from Crown=China made JUNK........
Call these folks.........

https://www.willysworks.com/

P.S. Can't get your vid to play.

LG
 
Success. Thanks for the tips!

I threw some paint on the new steering shaft, cleaned up the teeth and slathered them in grease, manhandled everything into place. It took some effort to get each side of the shaft onto the teeth. I found it best to line the set screw up with the flat spot, get the shaft positioned correctly, then whack it with a rubber mallet to actually push it on. For the top, I got under the car, straightened the shaft as much as I could and whacked. For the bottom, I lined it up as best I could and whacked the coupler, 'cause it was the only place I could find purchase.

There was some trepidation about the set screws coming loose, so I tried removing one to add thread locker and it was damn tight so I left the rest alone.

The bushing/bearing from Crown looked identical to OEM. I spoke with someone at Willys Works and they said the only one they had was the Crown. I squeezed a bit of extra grease in them, lined everything up in my hands before putting it on (the orientation of each part is a bit confusing), then got it all on with a big socket and some light taps.

Steering feels as good as ever. It's still a bit too stiff to return to center on its own, so maybe I'll replace or rebuild the steering box down the road (quicker ratio?). Right now, everything feels pretty smooth.

shafts.jpg

bushings.jpg

teeth.jpg

bushing-new.jpg

bearing-new.jpg

installed.jpg
 
I would put a line of white paint on those set screws and nuts to the joint body.
That way you will know when/if there is movement.
LG
 
I really like the shackles you have on the springs. What are they?
 
Success. Thanks for the tips!

I threw some paint on the new steering shaft, cleaned up the teeth and slathered them in grease, manhandled everything into place. It took some effort to get each side of the shaft onto the teeth. I found it best to line the set screw up with the flat spot, get the shaft positioned correctly, then whack it with a rubber mallet to actually push it on. For the top, I got under the car, straightened the shaft as much as I could and whacked. For the bottom, I lined it up as best I could and whacked the coupler, 'cause it was the only place I could find purchase.

There was some trepidation about the set screws coming loose, so I tried removing one to add thread locker and it was damn tight so I left the rest alone.

The bushing/bearing from Crown looked identical to OEM. I spoke with someone at Willys Works and they said the only one they had was the Crown. I squeezed a bit of extra grease in them, lined everything up in my hands before putting it on (the orientation of each part is a bit confusing), then got it all on with a big socket and some light taps.

Steering feels as good as ever. It's still a bit too stiff to return to center on its own, so maybe I'll replace or rebuild the steering box down the road (quicker ratio?). Right now, everything feels pretty smooth.

shafts.jpg

bushings.jpg

teeth.jpg

bushing-new.jpg

bearing-new.jpg

installed.jpg

To bad i didnt see you was replacing the bearing on the steering shaft. I installed one in my jeep.
https://www.wolffeng.com/store/p2/M109SS_Lower_Steering_Column_Cartridge_Bearing.html
 

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