Body Mount Bushing Replacement Info/Advice

Body Mount Bushing Replacement Info/Advice
Canadian CJ 7

Canadian CJ 7

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Current Setup 1985 Jeep CJ-258, 6cyl -T-5 5spd 273 gears.
My Body Mounts on my 85 CJ7 are old and cracked and I would like to replace them. Has anyone done a replacement and could give me some advice before I tackle this project. I know the body mount bolts will be a SOB to get out. Any good penetrating lube that you recommend that beats WD40. Looking at a one inch Poly body lift which comes with all the hardware. Any help or advice would be appreciated. :)

Brian
 
PB Blaster is your friend! Can be found at almost all auto and hardware stores.

Just about any poly kit will be fine, they are pretty much all the same.
 
pb blaster is good and i also found out my favorit pop coke works good to.
 
I've removed 3 tubs in the last 2 months. I've yet to not break a body bolt or spin the nut. The cages that the nuts are in are only welded on 2 corners for tightening and will spin real easy when removing. The last tub I removed I cut all the heads off the bolts, turned the tub upside down. Then you have clear access to the nuts to spray the pi$$ out of them with penetrating oil. I've been spraying them every 3 days or so with Amazon.com: PJ1 LPC-3 Penetrant & Lubricant 11 oz. 12-11: Automotive and have removed 4 of them with no problem. only 4 more to go
 
I'll be the 3rd to say Pb blaster.

And Jeepardy I have my fingers crossed for the other 4. :chug:
jeepardy said:
I've removed 3 tubs in the last 2 months. I've yet to not break a body bolt or spin the nut. The cages that the nuts are in are only welded on 2 corners for tightening and will spin real easy when removing. The last tub I removed I cut all the heads off the bolts, turned the tub upside down. Then you have clear access to the nuts to spray the pi$$ out of them with penetrating oil. I've been spraying them every 3 days or so with Amazon.com: PJ1 LPC-3 Penetrant & Lubricant 11 oz. 12-11: Automotive and have removed 4 of them with no problem. only 4 more to go
Click to expand...
 
Jeepardy, Thanks for your advice. I am not going to do a frame off at the moment due to money. If I spray the bolts well and often I should be able to remove the bolts without breaking or stripping them? The factory welds should hold from your experience? I know anything can happen and no one can guarantee anything, but I should be fine to soak them well and use common sense removing the bolts. Would you recommend I use air tools or a torque handle and socket?
 
If your worried about them breaking free on you I wouldnt use air tools. You can get a "feel" of how far to go with standard hand tools. They'll let you know when to stop and spray more ... sometimes. ;)
 
Petescj said:
If your worried about them breaking free on you I wouldnt use air tools. You can get a "feel" of how far to go with standard hand tools. They'll let you know when to stop and spray more ... sometimes. ;)
Click to expand...

Makes sense, I know that feel well all to well, to back off before it breaks.
Thanks for your help Petescj. :chug:
 
A 1" body lift is one of my winter projects. Happened to remember running across an article in JP magazine which addressed the issues involved. Went to their website, and viewed it in their archives. Lots of good tips, including using bucketfuls of PB Blaster over a week's time. They also show where and how to access the captured nuts which we will inevitably spin, how to deal with the bolts we will break, and give you a realistic look at the potential time involved in the project. Should be interesting. Best of luck.

Ron
 
Just put a 1" on mine last week. Loosen the bolts on one side up real well and remove bolts from the other. I used pb blaster. spray now! You might have to drop or loosen and shift the gas tank to get to the bolt on the passenger side. pretty easy prodject
 
I suggest you cut the bolts to remove the old rubber. Do this one at a time. After you do this you can get a better shot at the threads. You can even try some heat at that point. I like ATF and Acetone better than PB blaster. It may be possible to try the candle wax trick on some of them.
:cool:
 
Any idea how much you actually gain with a 1" body lift over the stock mounts?

If I wanted to do a 2" BL is there anything else that needs to be done beyond the obvious replacement of the mounts and bolts?

Also, any suggestions on brands or those to avoid.

Thanks!
 
AERO KROIL THE OIL THAT CREEPS you can find it at amazon,ebay KanoLaboratories.com
 
AMC used self tapping bolts when they married the body to the frame (discovered this when I pulled the tub off my 76 CJ5 ). They can be a real mutha to remove. But once you get them started, they come out easier than full threaded ones (mine did anyway). You need to be cautious about twisting them too much, as the captured steel plate in the tub may twist. Then you need to implement Plan B...

As posted, penetrating oil and cautious use of heat, are your friend. If you've got an impact, that's a plus, but I wouldn't use anything with too much 'bang' initially. Hit 'em in either direction with short burst, and keep them lubed.

Good Luck. :chug:
 
ColoradoCJ7 said:
If I wanted to do a 2" BL is there anything else that needs to be done beyond the obvious replacement of the mounts and bolts?
Click to expand...
IMHO, don't go 2". 1" of body lift at the most will help clear larger tires, and not cause all sorts of issues with a number of things you may not want to address. Also lifting the body too high will move the COG even higher, which has an adverse effect on stability, and can create unwanted torsional stress.

Don't even entertain the idea of going with a 3" BL.... :rolleyes:

I used Energy Suspension poly bushing on my 76 CJ (no lift). If you go with the lift, I'd go with the something like the Daystar: Daystar® KJ04503BK 1" Polyurethane Body Mount Lift Kit for 76-79 Jeep® CJ5 & CJ7 | Quadratec which doesn't use spacers.
 
Oldguyinajeep said:
A 1" body lift is one of my winter projects. Happened to remember running across an article in JP magazine which addressed the issues involved. Went to their website, and viewed it in their archives. Lots of good tips, including using bucketfuls of PB Blaster over a week's time. They also show where and how to access the captured nuts which we will inevitably spin, how to deal with the bolts we will break, and give you a realistic look at the potential time involved in the project. Should be interesting. Best of luck.

Ron
Click to expand...

I know this is an old post, but any chance you have a link to that article?
 
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