body mount/lift kit instal
IOPort51
NOT the voice of reason Jeep-CJ.com
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- 1977 cj-5
4.2 W/MC2100 carb, 4.0 head W/3 angle valves,SS Header,TFI ignition with MSB-6 offroad module,CS144 140 amp RPS alternator with remote regulator T-150,d-20,Dana 44 with OX lock and disk brakes. D-30 with Spartin locker,
skyjacker 2.5 lift?nitro shocks,31" BFG A/T off road.8000 lb Warn winch, original owner.=^)
2006 Toyota Tacoma
I have purchased a new body mount/1" body lift kit from Day star and tonight I began the replacement.
My first observation is that project follows my third law of the natural universe "Nothing is ever as easy as it first appears" . This is on my 77 CJ5 which is presently about 1 3/4 inches above stock and I am going to drop it to 1". The question you ask is "why IO??" it's just a lousy 3/4 inch!! and right you are so I have to admit I am caving to peer pressure and replacing the mostly square hard rubber blocks that make hockey pucks look good.
The moment of truth is, of course, putting a socket on the bolt head and see if everything is going to come apart in a civilized manner. Experience has taught me to not count on this happening but it's kind of fun to fantasize about such things some times.
There are 11 mounts in all and the easiest to get to are the 6 (three on each side) that are directly under the front floor section. The hardest would be the two (one on each side) over the axle. The two on the back corner can be reached and the front center is pretty accessible.
I sprayed the hardware with PB blaster twice before ever trying to brake the bolts loose. Didn't help very much. The female threaded block, about 1" square is restrained by sheet metal brackets formed onto the body. It is my opinion that they design is a bit week when it needs to hold a nut on a bolt that has been rusting on for longer as 30 years.
Good news the second, third and last row of nuts can be reached. this means that the bolt can be cut with a saws all and the nut removed , retreaded and replaced with not too much problem. however the first third and 4th are boxed into the body quite well as far as I have seen so far and they may require a bit more finesse. I am considering, seriously, drilling 3/16 holes through the bucket floor to have access to the nut to apply some kind of penetrating oil. If one of these breaks loose it will require a hole of at least 1.25 inches if you are going to reuse the nuts. Just saying.
My first observation is that project follows my third law of the natural universe "Nothing is ever as easy as it first appears" . This is on my 77 CJ5 which is presently about 1 3/4 inches above stock and I am going to drop it to 1". The question you ask is "why IO??" it's just a lousy 3/4 inch!! and right you are so I have to admit I am caving to peer pressure and replacing the mostly square hard rubber blocks that make hockey pucks look good.
The moment of truth is, of course, putting a socket on the bolt head and see if everything is going to come apart in a civilized manner. Experience has taught me to not count on this happening but it's kind of fun to fantasize about such things some times.
There are 11 mounts in all and the easiest to get to are the 6 (three on each side) that are directly under the front floor section. The hardest would be the two (one on each side) over the axle. The two on the back corner can be reached and the front center is pretty accessible.
I sprayed the hardware with PB blaster twice before ever trying to brake the bolts loose. Didn't help very much. The female threaded block, about 1" square is restrained by sheet metal brackets formed onto the body. It is my opinion that they design is a bit week when it needs to hold a nut on a bolt that has been rusting on for longer as 30 years.
Good news the second, third and last row of nuts can be reached. this means that the bolt can be cut with a saws all and the nut removed , retreaded and replaced with not too much problem. however the first third and 4th are boxed into the body quite well as far as I have seen so far and they may require a bit more finesse. I am considering, seriously, drilling 3/16 holes through the bucket floor to have access to the nut to apply some kind of penetrating oil. If one of these breaks loose it will require a hole of at least 1.25 inches if you are going to reuse the nuts. Just saying.
