Brake question

Brake question

ken98k

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North Pole, Alaska
Vehicle(s)
{1980 cj-5, 258, t-176, d300 amc20 rear, D30}{1974 cj-5, 304, T-15, D20, D30 front, D44 rear}{1973 cj-5, 304, t-98,D20, amc20, D30}
{1990 yj 2.5L i-4 AX-5 NP231 Dana 30 front Dana 35c rear}
1996 XJ Cherokee 4.0 HO
{2000 silverado}
{1979 Cadillac Sedan DeVille}
74 CJ5 ,
Not power brakes.
I have bled the brakes.
First step on the brakes there is next to nothing, but if I pump the pedal twice they work good.

This happens every time I use the brakes,
 
Ty adjusting your drum brakes up a little.
 
If your not loosing brake fluid I bet it's your master cylinder.

EDIT: a bad caliper or brake wheel cylinder can cause the same problem but then you would be loosing fluid.
 
Last edited:
X3 master cylinder. Probably pits in the bore on the down side. I use silicone brake fluid that won't attract water. Works great.
 
OK, I'm changing the master cylinder, Does anybody use any kind of lube on the pushrod?
I cleaned it up with a buffer but should it be lubed?
 
Guys i have a quick question.

Recently bought a 78’ CJ5 5.0 and she needs a little tcl. Yesterday with my father we attempting to bleed the brakes. i heard what sounded like pressurized fluid being released....long story short the brake line leaving the master cylinder blew a pin hole leak. my guess it was rubbing against the frame and time took its toll.

my question: where can I find a prefabricated line to fix the section between the master cylinder and distribution box (I’m assuming I’m using the correct term).
Is there a certain term for the brake line? I only need the one.

*the leak is about 10" down from the master cylinder.


thanks again
 
I have never seen single replacement lines, only full kits. (Just checked Morris, Napa, Omix and several others)

If you don't want to buy a kit you can measure what length you need (use a piece of string to follow the bends) and get a replacement from the parts store and bend it your self. Just be careful not to kink it (use a tubing bender if you have one). It doesn't have to be an exact duplicate of the old one.

You could also cut the old one and splice in a fitting where the leak is. NOTE:!!! You will need a DOUBLE flare kit to do this. Single flares are NOT to be used on brake lines.

IMO - I would replace the entire leaking line.
 
I have never seen single replacement lines, only full kits. (Just checked Morris, Napa, Omix and several others)

If you don't want to buy a kit you can measure what length you need (use a piece of string to follow the bends) and get a replacement from the parts store and bend it your self. Just be careful not to kink it (use a tubing bender if you have one). It doesn't have to be an exact duplicate of the old one.

You could also cut the old one and splice in a fitting where the leak is. NOTE:!!! You will need a DOUBLE flare kit to do this. Single flares are NOT to be used on brake lines.

IMO - I would replace the entire leaking line.


gotcha and thanks for the info. i didn't think they sold single lines because i've been looking everywhere but figure i ask on the forum. the local o'reilly auto parts i believe will make you a custom line. hoping they will be able to help me out.


also....does the coil like bending a required must leaving the master cylinder?
 
Have you done what is called a BENCH BLEED of the master cylinder? it is easy, make up 2 hoses that you screw in the exits and put them back in the reservoirs. fill and pump till no bubbles come out. I is surprising how much air can be trapped in teh MC and never comes out under a normal bleed.
 
Have you done what is called a BENCH BLEED of the master cylinder? it is easy, make up 2 hoses that you screw in the exits and put them back in the reservoirs. fill and pump till no bubbles come out. I is surprising how much air can be trapped in teh MC and never comes out under a normal bleed.


So here's the deal...:mad:
the clever and well design of the 78' CJ5 was to place the brake distribution box directly to the side or behind depending how you look at it of the clutch arm and butt up against and a few other items.
I attempted to break free but the line but clearly has not been done removed since birth. At the angle of the line nut it's near impossible to break it free and being I have Limited tools (lift is really needed here) I've decided just to have a buddy at a local shop break it free and replace the line. Figure pay a little or break a lot. I have to take it in to have the carb adjusted so I figured two birds, one stone.

Round one: jeep 1, chris 0
**I considered removing the other lines to lower the distro box and work on it from there but seriously it's not giving at all and it's not worth rounding off anything.
 

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