carter bbd carb

carter bbd carb


1985 CJ7. Inline 6. Mostly stock with a 3 inch body lift. 33 inch MTs. Dana 300 tcase. T-176 tranny.
My CJ7 is 1985, but I think the carb may be off 1983. My Chilton's manual has 2 separate pages for it. The choke housing has some measuring lines with a yellow line on the what I think is the baffle. Is there a suggested lineup with that yellow line. On the opposite side of the carb is the fast idle cam, and it drops when I pump the gas at the carb. Once it drops then the idle screw adjuster goes too far forward, and the Jeep dies. Any help?
man you can try to straighten it out but usually once a bbd takes a dump, theres not much you can do but replace it, or rebuild it but its still a :dung: shoot wether or not you'll get it right again. for an economical resolution to your problem you should look into swapping in a mc2100. thats the best advice/help i can give you with this particular problem
I bought the carb from Autozone and went to their website to search the part number. I think it's actually a Champion carb. Will this carb take the same earlier suggestions as the Carter?
I will have to have pictures or at least part numbers if AZ has a picture with the number. does it look like the old one?

I bought the carb from Autozone and went to their website to search the part number. I think it's actually a Champion carb. Will this carb take the same earlier suggestions as the Carter?
Here are some images of the carb, but I don't recall what the previous one looked like. The third image does have Carter labeled.
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So I had an auto shop look at my carter carb, and he said there is rust on the bottom. My pa-in-law works at the Zone, so he said he would check on the warranty or repair the carb. I have all the carb off the Jeep but the throttle linkage. Isn't that on image #2 back in post number 6 of this thread. I don't see what's holding to the carb. Any help? And many thanks.
First... that is DEFINITELY NOT a Carter BBD. No way nohow. It's... I think... a Carter YF, which would be about right for an '83.

There's a factory-suggested position for that choke cap, but it escapes me at the moment - I do it more by feel than anything. It should close firmly (not enough to pinch your fingers, but enough to dent a raw hotdog a little) when the motor's totally stone cold. When the motor's warmed up to operating temperature, the choke should open FULLY, and the fast idle cam should drop completely out of the way. At that point, the warm idle adjustment screw (there should be TWO - one for fast idle, one for warm idle) needs to be adjusted until the motor idles at about 800RPM.
never again will I go near a carter :D
I guess I woke up on the wrong side of the bed this morning or maybe I just am in the mood to stir some :dung:.
I have a different perspective on the Carter carburetor, both BBD and YF. You guys remind me of the guy who gets shot down in flames by some hot Chica and comes to the conclusion that "if she doesn't want to sleep with me she must be a lesbian". translate; "If I can't keep this carb working right, it must be a lousey carb" .
Ok IO let's hear your opinion. Agreed just because a piece of equipment won't function right with some doesn't mean it doesn't function. However I do have problems and I can't seem to get it right. My carter will idle fine at some times and other times it just dies off. It won't hold a steady idle and it will also runaway causing the engine to run very high rpm. I've rebuilt my carburetor and these are the problems I'm having. So if you have had good experience in maintaining the BBD then please share.:chug:
That sure sounds to me either like a vacuum leak (intermittent) or a timing issue (sticky advance lobes in the distributor, or vacuum leak in the advance hose).
Pop the distributor cap off. The lobes should be hanging right up at the top - rotate the T-shaped thing that the rotor attaches to back & forth - when you rotate it counterclockwise, it advances the distributor and both lobes should go slack. Pull each one out in turn to see if it moves freely.
While I agree with you that has to be one of the strangest descriptions Ive ever seen.:laugh:
(not enough to pinch your fingers, but enough to dent a raw hotdog a little)
Hey, Tim. The carb was cleaned and ran fine for a short time but has caused problems again. The idle cam does drop all the way down, but the Jeep dies if I don't keep the gas pedal pressed. Can you look at image #3 in Post #6? Do you know what the red wire is plugged into? It has 3 small screws that can be loosened so that it can be adjusted by turning either clock or couner clockwise. It ahs several tick marks next to the black wheel and a yellow line which I guess for marking. I'm told there is a spring inside this piece. Do you think this could be faulty?
It's your electric choke.
That it is - or more accurately, it's your "electrically assisted choke". The choke itself is entirely mechanical, but the pulloff (for when the motor's warm" is electrically assisted. Here's the deal:

Inside that black cap is a spring-looking bimetal element just like the one in all the older-style house thermostats. When it's cold, it winds up tightly and when it's warm it loosens. When it winds up (cold), it closes the choke plate at the top of the carburetor, inside the air cleaner (take the air cleaner off to see it) so's to enrich the fuel mixture - the motor needs a richer mixture to keep running when it's cold.

When it warms up (that red wire connects to a tiny heating element inside the black cap, and that little heating element runs any time the key is turned on), the motor doesn't want that rich a mixture (it'll flood), so the springy dude loosens and that opens the choke plate at the top of the carburetor to lean out the fuel mix.

You can only reasonably adjust that choke cap by taking the air cleaner off. With the engine dead cold (sat overnight), the choke plate should close fully and kinda' snugly but not really tightly. It should close with enough force to hold a pencil in place, but not a whole lot more than that - it shouldn't, for example, hold a screwdriver in place. You adjust that force by loosening those three screws and rotating the black cap.

Then when the motor's warmed up, the choke plate should be fully open... which should happen entirely automatically.

With the choke plate closed, your idle speed should follow the fast-idle cam. With the choke plate open, when you tap on the gas pedal the fast-idle cam should drop free and the idle speed should then be controlled by the low-idle screw.

Let's get that choke pulloff (the black cap) adjusted correctly & take it from there. That's probably part & parcel of the problem at this point. It's possible it's been hurt (rust or the heating element burnt out), but it's a LOT more likely that it only needs adjustment.

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