Caster vs driveline angle

Caster vs driveline angle

rocmoc

Jeeper
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Location
Tucson, AZ & Mexico (both Mainland & Baja)
Vehicle(s)
1970 CJ5, V6, 3spd, power steering, headers, electric fans, upgraded larger radiator, '78 grill, disc brakes (front only), swing pedals, hyd clutch, extended front shock mounts, upgraded front driveline w larger u-joints, warn OD, D30 front diff, lockers, 2100 carb, working on a '74 tub replacement, '78 windshield frame with '78+ Acme hardtop
I understand caster. I want to confirm when you add positive caster you are also increasing the angle on the front driveline when at rest and this is OK? After a 3" lift, caster needs to be added but then the angle of the driveline at the diff yoke will be sacrificed for the sake of better handling. Just looking for assurance I am doing the correct fit.

Also, are aluminum wedges really that bad? That is all I have at the moment but if they are really that bad I will make the effort to get the steel ones.

Thanks,
rocmoc n AZ/Mexico
 
You are correct in what you state, but you might want to try and see how it handles after you install the lift. When I first put 4" springs on my CJ7 , I only installed wedges on the rear, with no handling issues up front, or with steering. They were aluminum, tightend down to 100 lbs, and seemed to be O.K., I have since rewelded the rear spring perches. So, you will be driving with the front pinion angle a bit lower than optimal, which will cut down on ground clearance. You might have vibration problems driving fast on a dirt road in 4wd, and the pinion angle/front driveshaft/Transfer Case alignment will not be correct, but maybe you could deal with it.
 
Thanks, just the info I was looking for!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico
 
If you are going to use wedges, I would use the steel ones. I have had the aluminum one deform and break. I have had good luck with the steel ones.
 
It's not the lift that makes bad caster, it's adding longer shackles.
If you are still running stock lenght or 1/2" lift shackles you shouldn't need the wedges. If you do use steel, the alum. ones can wear and cause problems.
Your right on the wedges throwing your pinion angle off, that's never a good thing.
 
OK, uncle! I will pick up steel wedges at Willyworks on Monday. My 3" of lift is 2" from aftermarket springs & 1" from aftermarket shackles. Plus I installed a Dana 30 in the front of my '69. I do plan on reversing the front shackles so that will be a different setup & project.

Thanks again everyone!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico
 
. I do plan on reversing the front shackles so that will be a different setup & project.

Thanks again everyone!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Do some research about this I have only read this and from what
I have read it affects the safety of the Jeep.
 
Do some research about this I have only read this and from what
I have read it affects the safety of the Jeep.

Thank you for your concern. Everything I have read is positive. I have also talked to one of Tucson's top Jeep mechanics. He has even converted his own Jeep. The biggest difference people have expressed is the nose can dive / drop more when braking.

Thanks again,
rocmoc n AZ/Mexico
 
Check out this artical, it explains everything you need to know about lift kits & jeeps.

http://mysite.verizon.net/res108eps...ilderfiles/Steering-and-suspension-basics.pdf


Thanks Redman, had not looked at that article for a while. Unfortunately I have addressed everything in the article. I have undertaken a reverse shackle conversion as I still have more than 2 degrees of neg caster with 6 degrees of shims installed. Reverse shackles will put more caster into the geometry of the front end. I still believe the frame horns are bent from abuse by the past owner. Thanks again.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico
 

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