• Hello Guest, we are proud to now have our Wiki online that is completely compiled and written by our members. Feel free to browse our Jeep-CJ Wiki or click on any orange keyword when looking at posts in the forum.

CJ-7 Frame

CJ-7 Frame
45frank

45frank

Jeeper
Posts
145
Thanks
0
Location
Mountains Western NC
Vehicle(s)
Past 77 CJ-5, 84 CJ-7, 78 CJ-7, WIP 80 CJ-7
Bought a 1980 CJ7 and I did beat the frame with a hammer before buying it and seems to be pretty stout, no rust.
I have had CJ's and know how fast hey can rust. My question what can I do to slow it. I'm not going to take the frame off for starters.
Is there a way to power wash it and coat it? Are there any companies or is there something a body shop could do?

It has a fiberglass tub in pretty good condition and it seem to be older and EVERYTHING works electronically, I was amazed. I want to clean up ALL the wires running everyplace.
What kind of grounding blocks should I use? I would like to put one under the hood on the firewall and one under the dash and what size wire to the battery, block or frame?
 
[QUeOTE=45frank;238872]Bought a 1980 CJ7 and I did beat the frame with a hammer before buying it and seems to be pretty stout, no rust.
I have had CJ's and know how fast hey can rust. My question what can I do to slow it. I'm not going to take the frame off for starters.
Is there a way to power wash it and coat it? Are there any companies or is there something a body shop could do? [/QUOTE]

There are several companies that make stuff that will help - and they typically rust from the inside out. I would pressure wash the interior of the frame as well as possible, let it dry completely, and then hit the inside with something. Por15 makes good stuff, as does Eastwood. You will find many folks supporting either or both. Once you hit it with something from these guys, it'll probably outlive you.

[QUeOTE=45frank;238872]It has a fiberglass tub in pretty good condition and it seem to be older and EVERYTHING works electronically, I was amazed. I want to clean up ALL the wires running everyplace.
What kind of grounding blocks should I use? I would like to put one under the hood on the firewall and one under the dash and what size wire to the battery, block or frame?[/QUOTE]

I printed the thread the following link hits and stuck it in a 3 ring binder.....and refer to it often. It'll probly make you sorry you asked LOL.

Oh, :ww: Welcome to the site!!
 
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
The POR15 seems to be the consensus here. I took a sheet metal hammer and beat the frame pretty good and all was solid. And the outside of the frame looks as though it was coated at sometime.
As soon as I take care of the oil leak this week that will be my next step.
 
OK I really wish I hadn't cleaned the frame today after the oil change!!!! Talk about taking the wind out of ya big time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:(
I'm telling you I beat the frame with my sheet metal hammer everyplace I could and it sure sounded solid.
OK on the driver side only a small hole but after removing the dirt the bottom of the frame where it's welded on the bottom part looks to be cracked like the weld broke lose. Starts at about the rear of the door and goes up to about mid wheel. The driver side hidden behind the muffler is thru starting about mid door and to about the beginning to where it go up over the wheel. Rust thru is on the inside of frame to and towards the top. I blew it big time, I tell ya I thought I hit every inch. The thing is on the passengers side it still sounds solid when ya hit it. Now decisions to make big time!!!!!!!!! :mad:
 
Man, I hate to hear that. Been there, done that. My journey began with the inspection station finding a quarter sized rust hole in the frame behind the rear wheel. Four years later, I'm hoping to drive it by fall......... I thought it would be a good idea to replace the frame with a solid one. Holy :dung: - shoulda just welded a patch over it.....


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
shum8 said:
Man, I hate to hear that. Been there, done that. My journey began with the inspection station finding a quarter sized rust hole in the frame behind the rear wheel. Four years later, I'm hoping to drive it by fall......... I thought it would be a good idea to replace the frame with a solid one. Holy :dung: - shoulda just welded a patch over it.....


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I looked at these https://www.mountainoffroad.com/jeep-cj/cj-reinforcements/cj-frame-plates/frame-plates-front-72-86-cj.html the rear ones look like they are channeled and could work, I have to measure now that I have accepted the fate. The front as of yesterday looks OK. The Drivers side though has rust not in the rear but the middle under the drivers seat area.
I do have a fiberglass tub so whatever I do it would set me up for the next 20 yrs.
I've seen aftermarket frames from $1900.00-$3000.00. The only used one was from the Denver area and he's asking $1,800.00 delivered and it needs body mounts replaced.
Any Advice is always welcome. Also found this.
https://www2.4wd.com/p/throttle-down-customs-replacement-frame-throt-tdk-cj-7/prod310225/_/R-THROT-TDK-CJ-7?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping&emlprox=out&ppcfon=1&gp=1&scid=scplpT%2FKTDK-CJ-7&sc_intid=T%2FKTDK-CJ-7&gclid=CjwKCAjwz9HHBRBbEiwAWOdqBRs9gvPGj_qehlKLKGs2KtLXmqAB5BvEOtPZfxT88qsIhhobre6-YRoCvOkQAvD_BwE
 
Last edited:
You are where I was a few years ago. Planned on picking up some of these:

https://www.quadratec.com/vehicle/1945-1986-cj/body-and-frame/frames-and-accessories

But found a guy parting out a 7 about an hour from me. Picked up a Brest rust free frame for 60 bucks..... my fate was sealed. Couldn't cut up a good frame to fix a bad one. The repair pieces above will not fix the problem, only push it down the road. You would have to remove as much rust as possible, hit what's left with a rust converter, weld on repair pieces, treat the inside all to doggone heck, paint the outside, and wait for it to show up again. Will takes years, but it will be back. Keep your eyes peeled for a donor frame - they show up occasionally The ones I have seen are usually in the 300 - 500 range.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Advice?........Never buy any Jeep frames from the East..Jeep never used any rust preventive measures until the late 80's and even then it wasn't much.

Just have to get a handle on how much needs replacing or repair.........vs how handy you are with fabrication & welding?

Sometimes a replacement frame from the Southwest or California may look pretty good
 
Patched my frame on my CJ8 for 4 years running (failing inspections) before I bit the bullet and found a frame on CL only 3 hours away. Being on the east coast, I was prepared to drive a while to get one. I got lucky as this one was rust free.

Did the swap. Much better.
 
tarry99 said:
Advice?........Never buy any Jeep frames from the East..Jeep never used any rust preventive measures until the late 80's and even then it wasn't much.

Just have to get a handle on how much needs replacing or repair.........vs how handy you are with fabrication & welding?

Sometimes a replacement frame from the Southwest or California may look pretty good
Click to expand...

I can do just about anything but weld due to defibrillator/pacemaker. Do still have a welder though.
This won't be my main drive but mostly a summer no roof vehicle. Occasionally a snow Jeep.
I have located two used frames so far one on the west coast that needs new body mounts,$1,500.00 delivered and one in Ohio that has a stress crack where the steering box mounts for $1,300.00 delivered.
Anyone ever dealt with Throttle Down Kustoms? He has aftermarket ones for under $1,900.00 delivered.
I did call Michael in Greensboro he said he mainly does CJ5 and has no 7's at this time.
Thanks all for the IDEAS.
 
AMC did a :dung: job on frame welding. It wasn't just the CJ that had the issues you see.
FWIW: My CJ is a desert jeep and rust free. I had to reweld 3 sections of the frame where the factory POS weld missed. :rolleyes:
I really hate welding while laying on my back.:laugh:
LG
 
45frank said:
Found this one on line, he is firm on the price and delivery charge.
Click to expand...

The first 2 pictures are a common breakage area for folks that run the OEM sway bar off road.
I have re welded several just like that over the years.
None of the cracks look bad-I'm more concerned with internal rust damage than the cracks, and IF the frame is straight and true..
LG
 
Lumpy Grits said:
The first 2 pictures are a common breakage area for folks that run the OEM sway bar off road.
I have re welded several just like that over the years.
None of the cracks look bad-I'm more concerned with internal rust damage than the cracks, and IF the frame is straight and true..
LG
Click to expand...

That's the problem buying on line without seeing. I did get pictures from another guy in Denver and the pictures showed more rust than mine.:confused:
This one he states was from California. He did send other pictures and no rust was detected. BUT they are just pictures. The above one he want $1,350.00 delivered.
 
Last edited:
Give these guys a try. At this time they say S&H is free :eek:
J&W Jeep

LG
 
Their site clearly shows FREE S&H.......LOL
Don't understand the picture deal. Who'd you talk to? Was it one of the owners??
LG
 
Lumpy Grits said:
Their site clearly shows FREE S&H.......LOL
Don't understand the picture deal. Who'd you talk to? Was it one of the owners??
LG
Click to expand...

S&H free is on New Jeeps parts if you spend more than $75.00. Didn't get his name was a young gentleman but he's to send me info thru e-mail.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Jeep-CJ Donation Drive

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.
Goal
$200.00
Earned
$0.00
This donation drive ends in
0 hours, 0 minutes, 0 seconds
  0.0%
Contribute
Back
Top Bottom