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cj/yj brake upgrade

ive been looking and reading alot on this and found a "how-to" i thought was pretty good. any comments or suggestions?

CJ to YJ Brake Booster Conversion - Street2Mud - Welcome!

mines a 83 CJ7 with manual brakes

Ive done it before it was a easy swap. I am swapping to a YJ pedal assembly so if you need a cj pedal assembly from Cj with power brakes and manual clutch linkage, I may be able to hook you up.

I now like to run hydraboost brakes.
 
Hydroboost:

Hydroboost002.webp

Picture010.webp

Vanco or look into the Mustang conversion.
 
and us yj guys use a master cylinder/booster from a 95 yj or from a ford van. i forget what year but google it and you can go one or two more steps up on your improvement and still buy the parts at the local autoparts store.
 
Ive done it before it was a easy swap. I am swapping to a YJ pedal assembly so if you need a cj pedal assembly from Cj with power brakes and manual clutch linkage, I may be able to hook you up.

Would using a CJ or YJ pedal with power brakes for this conversion eliminate the need for an adjustable plunger rod I assume?
 
Whenever changing out a master cylinder, brake booster, or even brake pedal, I would think an adjustable rod would be a good addition.
 
ive been looking and reading alot on this and found a "how-to" i thought was pretty good. any comments or suggestions?

CJ to YJ Brake Booster Conversion - Street2Mud - Welcome!

mines a 83 CJ7 with manual brakes

Would using a CJ or YJ pedal with power brakes for this conversion eliminate the need for an adjustable plunger rod I assume?

:)
I still find it amazing how folks continue to mix and match brake components while having really no Idea how they will utimetly work. Relying more on someone else's statement that they work "Pretty Good".
Good brakes in any system are not by accident! They are Purpose Built systems that take into account the weight of the vehicle, the rotating mass of the tires and the desired Brake torque needed to do the work. Wonder why wheel sizes have increased in New vehicles? Simply to get a larger rotor in the brake system that allows for a much greater leverage on brake torque. Simple calculations using pedal ratios, Master cylinder, wheel cylinder, caliper bore sizes & fluid volumes along with a desired fluid pressure that is needed. Once all the known's are plugged in, coming up with the right components is easy.

In the first Post it makes reference to an article / link to a YJ Brake Booster MC /Swap .........basic general information. The First thing that stands out that is in Error in the article is the swap is going from a manual brake system to a Vacuum Boosted system. No mention whether or not the Donor Jeep or recipient Jeeps stopping equipment is either Drum / Disc / Drum / Drum or Disc / Disc..... Likewise Master cylinder bore size , Proportioning valve and residual valving should closely match the recipients vehicle. Some of those items are built in either the OEM MC or Proportioning valve so it is important in a Junk yard removal that your paying attention to whether or not the equipment being removed somewhat closely resembles where its going.

Another important issue that the article is in error is regarding the need to correct the Brake Pedal Ratio.......on a standard swing pedal attached to a Non Boosted Manual brake Master Cylinder the ratio would be near 7:1 whereby the Boosted system is only about 4:1.......so you install the Boosted system on your manual ratio system and the brakes are exceeding touchy and you wonder why?
Which comes back to answering "Strike's" question regarding an adjustable or non adjustable push rod................that's a question that can't be answered until all the other components are correctly sized and in place.
Just one of the many things that has to been taken into account to optimize braking performance.
:D:D:D:D
 
:)
Which comes back to answering "Strike's" question regarding an adjustable or non adjustable push rod................that's a question that can't be answered until all the other components are correctly sized and in place.
Just one of the many things that has to been taken into account to optimize braking performance.
:D:D:D:D

Thank you Tarry. Which makes me want to elaborate on my question. The reason I asked is not because I'm concerned with the cost of an adjustable brake rod or worried about having to adjust for the brake light switch to make sure they're not on all the time, my main concern is not causing a bigger safety issue than I'm trying to alleviate.

My CJ is a 1986 with manual brakes. It has had 33's since I've owned it and during my rebuild I may go with 33's or 35's. The brakes are ok, but not great. I'd always considered upgrading to power brakes but I read this thread and just wanted to know if anyone had more information before I would end up turning it into a monster.

I'd like it to brake more safely with large rolling stock, but I don't want to cause retinal separation or feel like I've deployed a drag chute every time I touch the pedal. I understand if the YJ boosted setup has a different rod then an adjustable one may allow better pedal placement at rest to keep the brake lights from always being on, but the pivot point on the pedal isn't changing. So wouldn't that cause increased travel by the rod resulting in increased plunger movement with the same pedal movement?

I assumed in that case that perhaps the YJ pedal has the pivot point that is matched more appropriately to the rod movement necessary for its matched MC/booster plunger. Also if the plunger moves more fluid than the manual MC in my CJ currently wouldn't it require me to use the proportioning valve from the YJ?
 

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