CJ5 front shock relocate

[WACJ5]

I have a 1956 CJ5 with a clearance problem between the tie rod and shock absorber. I am Limited to right and left turning radius by the tie rod hitting the shock cover. Others suggest I relocate the shocks from the front to the rear of my Dana 25 axle. Are there sources for the frame mount other than custom fabrication? Other suggestions are certainly appreciated as well to gain turning radius.

Thanks. Larry

 

[tarry99]

I have a 1956 CJ5 with a clearance problem between the tie rod and shock absorber. I am Limited to right and left turning radius by the tie rod hitting the shock cover. Others suggest I relocate the shocks from the front to the rear of my Dana 25 axle. Are there sources for the frame mount other than custom fabrication? Other suggestions are certainly appreciated as well to gain turning radius.

Thanks. Larry

Larry, What have you changed in order for the shock to be hitting?
Do you still have the old Ross Steering with the bell crank mounted under the radiator cross member?
You can buy shock brackets for a 1980 CJ front and weld those on behind the front axle an equal distance that the stock ones are in front of it.
Then you can take your spring plates off and weld a stud on the rear to pickup the bottom shock mount...............very easy!

 

[rocmoc]

tarry99, can you take the spring plates and switch sides? That would put existing shock bolt in the rear. I have been thinking about doing this but have not tried it.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

 

[tarry99]

tarry99, can you take the spring plates and switch sides? That would put existing shock bolt in the rear. I have been thinking about doing this but have not tried it.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

No............... on the front Dana axles be it a 25,27 or 30 the spring plates on the right side ( passenger) have a different bolt pattern as one of the U-bolts is wider that goes over the cast housing while the other side doesn't making the patterns different.

Good trick question though.

 

[WACJ5]

I have flipped the tie rods, not a contributor (I believe), and installed reinforced i.e. tie rod and drag link with a tube. Made the diameter 1.25''. Do not know what might have happened with previous owner(s), but when I bought it the right shock was already dented, could have been because the steering stop bolt was not in the steering knuckle.

 

[tarry99]

I have flipped the tie rods, not a contributor (I believe), and installed reinforced i.e. tie rod and drag link with a tube. Made the diameter 1.25''. Do not know what might have happened with previous owner(s), but when I bought it the right shock was already dented, could have been because the steering stop bolt was not in the steering knuckle.

Do you still have the Ross Steering on there or changed over to Saginaw?
What width 33" tires are you using?

 

[WACJ5]

It has Saginaw power steering, 12.5" wide x 33s. Didn't mention Rancho shocks. I do not know the diameter of OE shocks. The Rancho might be a contributor as they are 2 3/16".

 

[tarry99]

It has Saginaw power steering, 12.5" wide x 33s. Didn't mention Rancho shocks. I do not know the diameter of OE shocks. The Rancho might be a contributor as they are 2 3/16".

Wac,

FYI

I would imagine those 12.5 tires in the front are probably a big problem , that front end is narrow..........You can swap in a Dana 30 narrow track from a 77-78 CJ with disc's that's 3 inches wider overall with the spring mounts in the same location as your old setup.........that extra 1.5 inches per side helps with the clearance.

 

[WACJ5]

Wac,

FYI

I would imagine those 12.5 tires in the front are probably a big problem , that front end is narrow..........You can swap in a Dana 30 narrow track from a 77-78 CJ with disc's that's 3 inches wider overall with the spring mounts in the same location as your old setup.........that extra 1.5 inches per side helps with the clearance.

The interference is not due to tires rubbing on anything, as the tie rod contacts the shock well before the tire hits the spring. Wouldn't think anything larger than 33s would be a good idea with the D25 either. Your suggestion concerning the 80 CJ front brackets seems like the solution I was looking for.

 

[tarry99]

The interference is not due to tires rubbing on anything, as the tie rod contacts the shock well before the tire hits the spring. Wouldn't think anything larger than 33s would be a good idea with the D25 either. Your suggestion concerning the 80 CJ front brackets seems like the solution I was looking for.

12.50 x 33 would be large enough..........do you have a locker or just open? I have had the D-25's before with the old Powrlok Posi and they do a real good job with 31" tires.

I can't believe with 12.5 your not hitting both front and rear.

I've used the shock mounts before many times and you may have to trim your inside fender panels a little.........they are different than the old stock mount but these you can get from any Jeep supplier or E-bay and are cheap , very stout and weld right on the frame in the desired location.
Post a picture of your problem love to see it.

 

[WACJ5]

12.50 x 33 would be large enough..........do you have a locker or just open? I have had the D-25's before with the old Powrlok Posi and they do a real good job with 31" tires.

I can't believe with 12.5 your not hitting both front and rear.

I've used the shock mounts before many times and you may have to trim your inside fender panels a little.........they are different than the old stock mount but these you can get from any Jeep supplier or E-bay and are cheap , very stout and weld right on the frame in the desired location.
Post a picture of your problem love to see it.

I've taken a couple of pictures. I've set the steering stops far enough out to prevent the tie rod from contacting the shock, notice the distance the tires are from the spring. Not the best in a tight trail.

 

[tarry99]

I've taken a couple of pictures. I've set the steering stops far enough out to prevent the tie rod from contacting the shock, notice the distance the tires are from the spring. Not the best in a tight trail.
View attachment 11630

View attachment 11631

Wac..............Yes, I see what your talking about. And cutting down your turning radius is not what you want either.
It is my opinion that normally the 12.50 tires are just to wide for the early CJ's with either the D25 or D27 front ends...............as I mentioned before the 1977-78 narrow track Dana 30 axle is a made in heaven replacement for your early Jeep. The spring perches are at 28" C/C the same as what you currently have, they are 1.5" wider per side plus in most case's you can find these axles with Disc brakes already on them.............. The only negative is the gear change to match your rear.

The other option is moving the shock to the rear position as we have discussed by adding another upper mount .............or as I have also done many times before is to weld a bottom shock bracket ( a formed bracket that captures the shock on both sides with a bolt running through it) welded directly to the axle on top of the tube and you get the same result.
Nothing but choices!

 

[WACJ5]

Wac..............Yes, I see what your talking about. And cutting down your turning radius is not what you want either.
It is my opinion that normally the 12.50 tires are just to wide for the early CJ's with either the D25 or D27 front ends...............as I mentioned before the 1977-78 narrow track Dana 30 axle is a made in heaven replacement for your early Jeep. The spring perches are at 28" C/C the same as what you currently have, they are 1.5" wider per side plus in most case's you can find these axles with Disc brakes already on them.............. The only negative is the gear change to match your rear.

The other option is moving the shock to the rear position as we have discussed by adding another upper mount .............or as I have also done many times before is to weld a bottom shock bracket ( a formed bracket that captures the shock on both sides with a bolt running through it) welded directly to the axle on top of the tube and you get the same result.
Nothing but choices!

I've bought the shock mounts you suggested. Now, is there a "best" location to install these and avoid some issue not apparent until I get back into the woods?

Thanks for your assistance, I appreciate you sharing experience.

 

[tarry99]

I've bought the shock mounts you suggested. Now, is there a "best" location to install these and avoid some issue not apparent until I get back into the woods?

Thanks for your assistance, I appreciate you sharing experience.

WAC,

I would say , find the center line of the axle on the frame now by using a plumb bob! Measure the location of the front shock mount forward and duplicate that measurement to the rear which should give you the same tire clearance you now have forward, keep in mind with front mounted shackles the complete front end will move forward about 1/2-3/4" under full compression. If the tires need more room move it forward a little.

Best to take the fenders off.

The inside fender panel will have to be trimmed on the rear for the shock. If you have the 1980 version mount it will fit right on your frame and is an easy weld job.
I don't think the brakes lines are effected by the new shock location.