CJ7 axle shift.

[Cduke88]

Hello all. My 1984 CJ7 which is bone stock just got new tires and rims. When I had all 4 off I was trying to get the slop out of my steering and upon checking it I found that when I turn the wheel all the way to the right it turns so far the the axle shifts about an inch. Best I can figure is the that is all the turn I have but the gear box has more to go. What is the best way to take that out of the steering? Thanks in advance.

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[Lumpy Grits]

Check the limit bolts on the inboard side of both front brakes.
LG

 

[Cduke88]

Ok so I adjusted the driver side limit bolt and took out the axle slide. So now I turn a inch farther to the right than the left. Is that going to hurt anything? If not I can deal with it

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[Lumpy Grits]

Set the limit bolts, so the tires clear the springs about 1"
LG

 

[RiverandSand]

Set the limit bolts, so the tires clear the springs about 1"
LG

This ^ and I will add check your torque on the spring pad u-bolts, should be 70-80 ft-lbs. The axle shouldn't shift unless you mean it's pushing the entire front suspension. In that case the tire is probably pushing against the frame.

 

[Cduke88]

What was happening is when I turn the wheel to the right it hit the limit bolt and there was still movement in the wheel. I could turn the wheel until the steering box would stop. It would push the whole suspension over about a inch. I adjusted the limit bolt and too care of that allowing the right turn to go farther. Now there is about a inch measured distance farther turn right than left.

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[Lumpy Grits]

This ^ and I will add check your torque on the spring pad u-bolts, should be 70-80 ft-lbs. The axle shouldn't shift unless you mean it's pushing the entire front suspension. In that case the tire is probably pushing against the frame.

What's your source for those specs?
As per FSM, MR-252, page G-140......
9/16-18 dia is 85-105 ft/lbs.
1/2-20 dia is 45-65 ft/lbs.

LG

 

[Lumpy Grits]

What was happening is when I turn the wheel to the right it hit the limit bolt and there was still movement in the wheel. I could turn the wheel until the steering box would stop. It would push the whole suspension over about a inch. I adjusted the limit bolt and too care of that allowing the right turn to go farther. Now there is about a inch measured distance farther turn right than left.

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Not sure I understand-
Can you post a picture or two?
LG

 

[Cduke88]

Well that is fixed. The limit bolts helped. Now I have a ton of slob in the steering wheel. All ball joints and steering shaft is tight. I tightened the adjustment bolt on the box but am scared to do it too much. Any other advice?

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[RiverandSand]

What's your source for those specs?
As per FSM, MR-252, page G-140......
9/16-18 dia is 85-105 ft/lbs.
1/2-20 dia is 45-65 ft/lbs.

LG

BDS suspension install - u-bolts 75-85 ft lbs
Haynes CJ manual - u-bolts 70-80 ft lbs
Don't own a fsm yet.
Since I have BDS suspension, I chose the Haynes torque values not knowing OPs suspension. However if the fsm shows a lower value I will defer.

 

[RiverandSand]

Well that is fixed. The limit bolts helped. Now I have a ton of slob in the steering wheel. All ball joints and steering shaft is tight. I tightened the adjustment bolt on the box but am scared to do it too much. Any other advice?

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Check your steering shaft the bell connector could be worn.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

BDS suspension install - u-bolts 75-85 ft lbs
Haynes CJ manual - u-bolts 70-80 ft lbs
Don't own a fsm yet.
Since I have BDS suspension, I chose the Haynes torque values not knowing OPs suspension. However if the fsm shows a lower value I will defer.

Errors in torque settings--
That alone should be the reason to own a true FSM.
I've seen to many mistakes in those 'general' manuals to ever trust'em.
LG

 

[RiverandSand]

Errors in torque settings--
That alone should be the reason to own a true FSM.
I've seen to many mistakes in those 'general' manuals to ever trust'em.
LG

To true!
I do trust BDS torque settings since it's their kit.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Check your steering shaft the bell connector could be worn.

If that ck's out OK-
Check out the upper & lower ball joints in the knuckles.
LG

 

[jp360cj]

Don't own a fsm yet.

I haven't found an 80 online, but there's an '81 here that will cover most of it. For front hubs/brakes, use the '79 Jeep® Parts Manuals online

 

[Lumpy Grits]

He's one.....
https://collinsbrosjeep.com/1980-jeep-service-manual-body-chassis/

LG

 

[lowcountry]

To true!
I do trust BDS torque settings since it's their kit.

I am currently installing a BDS kit and came across the same variances. LG's numbers are from the original OEM u-bolt specs. And the BDS torque specs are likely higher due to a better steel grade than what Jeep used 35 years ago.

Grade 8 bolts will take a higher clamping force (i,e. more torque) than say a grade 5 bolt, although both might suffice for the same application...

I torqued mine to the BDS value.