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Just wanted to say hello to everyone first. This is my first post. Just wanted to get some feed back for my jeep project. So here's the story. I currently have a stock 1985 CJ7 i4 eng T-4Transmission and a Dana 300 tcase. Up front has the Dana 30 and in the rear has the AMC20 . I now have a 1987 1 ton chevy 4x4. It has a 454ci 400 Transmission and a np205 tcase. Up front a Dana 60 and the rear is a gm 14 bolt. My plan is to swap everything minus the 454 ci into my jeep. I will trade the 454 in for a 350 sb. Just wanted to get some opinions on the epuiptment I plan on swaping into my cj? This is my first major project so any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for reading.
Not sure exactly what kind of off roading I'll be doing I just have done some research and found these components from this truck to be pretty tough. A long time ago I did a frame up build(jeep)for my first car but did have the money to really do it up. So now I'm a little older and want to build something that's not all show only. I'd love to be able to take it anywhere and not have to worry about breaking stuff because of weak parts. Now Im not saying I won't break things but that will be because of playing to hard. So I'm just looking for some input from u guys with a little more expertease in these types of build.
Are you planning on driving it to every trail? If so, you will have to really research local lift laws and width restrictions. Those axles really make the tires stick out a long way past the body.
1979 Jeep CJ5 with 304 V8, T18 Transmission, Dana 20 Transfer case with TeraLow 3:1 gears, 4.88 axle gears, Detroit Locker up front and Ox Locker in back with 1 piece axle shafts, 36" SuperSwamper SX Tires, Shackle reversal, MileMarker Hydraulic winch, MSD 6A ignition.
You would have to play pretty darn hard to break 1 ton running gear under a CJ.
I'd love to have that running gear for hard core rock crawling.
If it was me I would have those axles narrowed. That's just my opinion. There are some jeeps out there with full width axles. Here are a couple:
Most of the tires are outside the fenders even with 4 inch back spacing. A wide stance is good but I wouldn't be able to fit on some of my favorite trails.
Yeah that's what's been holding me back on pulling the trigger on this project. Running the full width axles. Or beefing up the stock axles on the jeep. I've been pondering this since the end of last summer. So much to think about. Lots of information out there. That's why I'm trying to get some feed back
If you want to keep this a trail dedicated rig, I would keep the axles fullwidth. This gives you a couple of benefits. The first is obviously going to be stability. There is absolutely no reason to run a 14b unless you are going 38" or taller tires...preferably something in the 40+ class. The main reason is because the 14b is a boat anchor and leaves much to be desired in ground clearance.
Along those lines, the popular route to go nowadays is to keep as little lift as possible. COG is not a commodity and every inch in height compromises your stability. Full width axles allow you to keep a lower center of gravity by not requiring enormous lift to utilize larger tires. It does this by leaving the tires outside the body components that would normally be in the way during articulation. Steering clearance is also made easier for the same reason. Watch the big boys play on some of the popular Pirate You-Tube videos and see how their rigs work. It's almost perfection.
You can shave the 14b, there are several writeups on Pirate and this helps the clearance issue but the nice thing about the 14b is that it is a low budget, strong axle...you can pretty much slap it on and forget about it. Plus they are cheap and readily available.
I strongly recommend stretching the rear and possibly the front if you keep it full width. It's easy to do with Waggy springs.
Now the one thing about the D60 that people forget is in stock form, they are not much stronger then a Dana 44 . The only real advantage is the R&P. Upgrading to 35 spline axle shafts is a big improvement over the stock shafts...otherwise, you are just running a heavy Dana 44 as far as strength.
Now...about that 454
Personally, I would use the BBC over the 350. For one thing, it would be a rare novelty that not many other people have (everybody has a SBC in their jeep ) and the torque curve on the 454 is flat out scary. The BBC swap is do-able and I've seen a few around, there is a guy in my club right now doing a 454 transplant into his CJ7 (375hp, 495ftlbs torque)
I've already made up my mind that if my 401 ever kicks the bucket, Im going with a 454 big block. Mainly because I cant find a 502 on the cheap.
Great info thanks. I love the idea of having the 454 in my jeep. I'm a little concerned on the size. But more concerned about the torque twisting my frame. The motor only has about 30,000 miles on it. Oh and far as tires go I was planning to use at least 38" tires. I think it's time to pull the trigger on this project and just go for it. I got the donar truck for a good price, and everything works on it. I drove it 1-1/2 hrs home when I bought it. I'm just a little concerned that it might look a little odd with full width axles. I'll def. chk out pirate to get an idea of how it's going to look. As far as springs go, are waggy leafs a flater style leaf?
1979 Jeep CJ5 with 304 V8, T18 Transmission, Dana 20 Transfer case with TeraLow 3:1 gears, 4.88 axle gears, Detroit Locker up front and Ox Locker in back with 1 piece axle shafts, 36" SuperSwamper SX Tires, Shackle reversal, MileMarker Hydraulic winch, MSD 6A ignition.
Great pics. Lots of options. Things for this project are moving a little slow because I've been working 70+ hrs a week. Luckally holidays r here. I just need to fin fabing up my oxyacetylene cart and I'll b ready to start demoing my donar truck. I'm very nervous but super excited to start this project. I even went as far to build a 1 ton gantry crane. Question, does anyone have any input on what steps to do first. Such as positioning motor Transmission first do I need to have the rims and tires and leafs. What's a good order to proceed with? I have an idea but maybe someone in here could give me a little direction. It would b very helpful. Thanks again
Wow I'm really going crazy about making the decision on using full width axles. Question, if you were only going to run your jeep offroad 20% of the time and 80% of the time will just be spent on road would u still use the full width axles? Especially since I have the donar truck already and it only cost me 1900$. What would be the cost of tracking all this stuff down. ie motor Transmission tcase both axles? Plus I know all this stuff works on the truck. Man I'm going crazy figuring this out. Feedback?
1979 Jeep CJ5 with 304 V8, T18 Transmission, Dana 20 Transfer case with TeraLow 3:1 gears, 4.88 axle gears, Detroit Locker up front and Ox Locker in back with 1 piece axle shafts, 36" SuperSwamper SX Tires, Shackle reversal, MileMarker Hydraulic winch, MSD 6A ignition.
Question, if you were only going to run your jeep offroad 20% of the time and 80% of the time will just be spent on road would u still use the full width axles?
The advantage of full width axles is stability. That's good whether you are on road or off.
Off road you have rough terrain. On road you might have an accident that could become a roll over if you are too high and narrow.
All roads will handle full width axles but there are some trails near my home that need a narrow stance.
Now if it was my Jeep I would definitely use those axles but I would narrow them. I would use 39 inch tires and the stance would be wider than stock. I would try to keep it as low as possible and cut the fenders instead. Narrowing the axles would be another expense but then you wouldn't need a kit to install full width axles.
That's just my opinion and I'm sure you'll get several other opinions before this thread is over.
YOU will have to check with your local state patrol and see what will keep your CJ legal. The wide axles will push your tires way out past the fenders, requiring wider fenders or fender flares.
Some places kinda overlook this, others take a tape measure to you every time the CJ gets on the road.
Is there a local off roading club around you that you can ask? they will usually know what the local enforcement will look at.
Great info thanks. I love the idea of having the 454 in my jeep. I'm a little concerned on the size. But more concerned about the torque twisting my frame. The motor only has about 30,000 miles on it. Oh and far as tires go I was planning to use at least 38" tires. I think it's time to pull the trigger on this project and just go for it. I got the donar truck for a good price, and everything works on it. I drove it 1-1/2 hrs home when I bought it. I'm just a little concerned that it might look a little odd with full width axles. I'll def. chk out pirate to get an idea of how it's going to look. As far as springs go, are waggy leafs a flater style leaf?
that would be a fairly big concern of mine to, i'd completely box the frame front to back. with a small block it wouldn't worry me to much, but a bbc can make some serious torque, especially with low gearing and big tires.
One of the things I did while I was working on my CJ was to add the MORE frame reinforcement plates. They're precut 3/16" steel plate that you weld to the outside of the frame front and rear. They have all the holes to match up to the frame so you can just clamp them up and weld them on. I've been fairly impressed with how they went on.
Sounds like a lot of work, plan on spending more $ on this project than you thought. i have a friend who did almost the same swap. at the end of the day he wished that he would have gone another direction with it. he also had nothing but drive line problems after he did it. he also spent more time working on it then he did driving it. he has since sold the jeep and went back to the stock CJ7 with a 4 in. lift and 33 in. tires. But a jeep guy has got to make his jeep the way he want's it. Good Luck to you and your jeep dreams. you'll need it.
A 1985 CJ already has a fully boxed frame, and although a BBC weighs more then a small block, the suspension pays for it more in the long run. Still, it's never a bad idea to shore up the frame.
As far as torque and hp, my 401 dynos at 430hp with 460ftlbs of torque. I've experienced no adverse affects on my frame.
The 454 the shop here just finished up to go into a CJ7 dynoed at 375hp and 475ftlbs of torque.....not a big difference.
) and the torque curve on the 454 is flat out scary. The BBC swap is do-able and I've seen a few around, there is a guy in my club right now doing a 454 transplant into his 
