CJ7 steering play (VIDEO)

[jeremy5780]

I have a 1985 CJ7 with power steering. There are NO leaks and the gear box bracket is in good condition and secure. There is appox 1-2 inch's of steering wheel play. I shot this with my cell the best I could. Can you help me determine the problem so I can correct it. Thanks Just click the link below to see the video


Cj7 steering slop - YouTube

 

[Torxhead]

Thanks for sending in that video, it gives a great description. My opinion is that you have normal wear and tear for a vehicle that old. Yes everything is worn out, so it seems. I would think that the steering wheel has a sideways rock in it also. I would suggest the first thing to replace would be the steering coupler, which is the joint nearest to the steering box. There is a great steering diagnosis post somewhere in this forum, perhaps someone can bring it up it for you, have fun.

 

[Old Dog]

Here's the link to the thread that Torxhead was looking for.
http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f99/troubleshooting-correcting-your-steering-4106/

 

[CDT540]

I just went thru this issue on mine. What I did was have someone twist the steering like you were doing in the video and then begin to trace. I check the steering coupler by watching the input shaft on the steering box. If the coupler twists but the shaft doesn't then the coupler needs to be replaced/rebuilt. If the shaft moved with the coupler I check the output shaft/ptman arm. If it wasn't moving while twisting the steering then the power steering box was worn. If the pitman arm moved but the wheels didn't then it is likely your tie rods/drag bar. In my case the steering box was the biggest contributer to the problem but due to age all the components from the coupler to the tie rod ends were worn to some degree.

 

[PaRenegade]

I'd agree Jeremy, start with rebuilding the coupler at the bottom of the steering shaft. The rebuild kits are cheap and simple. The hardest part will be separating the shaft from either end to get access.
Your not by chance related to jr and sr are you?

 

[jeremy5780]

No relation, if there was I would be having someone else fix my steering! Thanks guys I was looking at it today and it appears to either be the lower coupling or the gear box. There is defiantly some play in the lower coupling and there also appears to be some in the gear box. So I'm going to start off with the coupler however I fear I need a new gear box as well. Thanks guys

 

[jeremy5780]

I do have a question though. How do I go about replacing the coupler? Do I need to remove my gear box? or can I get way without removing it?

 

[Old Dog]

I got mine out without taking the box loose but it just bearly make it. You have to take both top and bottom loose so the whole shaft can slide.

 

[CDT540]

I do have a question though. How do I go about replacing the coupler? Do I need to remove my gear box? or can I get way without removing it?

I removed the bolts holding the steering column to the firewall and the two right under the dash and then slid the column back enought to release the upper shaft and then disconnected the shaft from the box and slid it out. If you are going to rebuild the lower coupling I would also replace the bearing where the shaft connects to the steering column. The coupler and upper bearing are cheap and easy to do so you may as well do both why your at it. If you are going to replace the boot on the coupler you will need to seperate the shaft to get the new one on. There are two pins where the lower shaft inserts into to the upper shaft. Punch the two pins out and slid apart (will take some effort). When I put it back together I used bolts where the pins were.

 

[PaRenegade]

I don't suggest you do that. Those pins are plastic and made to "shear" in the case of a front end collision so it doesn't drive the steering wheel into the driver. It's made to absorb the energy and collapse. The boot at the bottom should be able to stretch over the end pin.

Each case is different due to rust and age. Spray the upper and lower ends with Liquid Wrench or similar a few days ahead. The splined connection is usually what gives you a hard time. There should be enough end play to allow it to be removed but you may need a little hammer like persuasion!

 

[CDT540]

I was wondering why they used such flimsy pins. That makes perfect sense. Luckily they easily accessable without removing the shaft so I will remove the screws and replace with plastic pins.

Thanks!

 

[yellow85cj]

Wouldn't worry about replacing the pins too much. They aren't really pins. The are part of a larger piece of a nylon like plastic that has been injected into the shaft. Here's a couple of pic's of columns I have pulled apart. One was pretty much on target with the amount, the other was a bit much.

Somebody got a little smarter with the YJ columns and used springs.