Clocking a Dana 300 and new skid

Clocking a Dana 300 and new skid
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Delaware
Vehicle(s)
85 CJ-7 150 ci with T-4 in front of a Dana 300, 33s mounted on steelies with 2.5" spring lift plus 1" Currie Rock Crusher Shackles. 4.56s front and rear, locker up front
Question: I wanted clock my Dana 300 transfer case and build a new skid plate to increase my ground clearance. Has anyone walked down this road? If so, what potholes did you hit? Thanks for any help.
 
Sorry I haven't made it to that road yet, it's still comming up sometime in the future.
Good luck and keep us posted.
 
The only thing I know about it is it either takes money or a drill press....the money part is the clocking ring that shortens your rear driveshaft by an inch or the drill press method which is best accomplished with a disassembled transfer case I am headed after the second method since I have a 3550 5 speed and my rear drive shaft angle sucks bad enough
 
The only thing I know about it is it either takes money or a drill press....the money part is the clocking ring that shortens your rear driveshaft by an inch or the drill press method which is best accomplished with a disassembled transfer case I am headed after the second method since I have a 3550 5 speed and my rear drive shaft angle sucks bad enough
Hey gert have you tried test fitting a D300 to your nv? I had the aluminum input housing from a 300 and it seemed to fit in the tail of my 3550 just fine. If I recall correctly the d300 has a NP bolt pattern so it may bolt to your 3550 without any issues as long as you are maintaining passenger side drop.

I would go with a clocking ring to reclock your TC for the OP i have seen them for 60 bucks and they aren't quite an inch i think closer to 3/4 inch is what mine measured out to be.
 
i would like to know what all it takes to do the clocking. i have herd that the drive shaft will be of to one side and I'm not sure of the belly up style skid to make or if i can buy one.
 
i would like to know what all it takes to do the clocking. i have herd that the drive shaft will be of to one side and I'm not sure of the belly up style skid to make or if i can buy one.

you will need a clocking ring, you need to bend the shifter, enlarge the hole for the shifter, and a cv driveshaft as the angle will be to much for a reg. driveshaft. You usually need at least a 1" body lift and I had to cut one of the ears for the shifter bolt off.
I don't know if anyone makes a belly up skid for a cj. I made my own crossmember with 2 seperate skids for the transfercase and trans.
 
2 skids. great idea. thanks for the info. is advaced adapters the only clocking ring?
 
2 skids. great idea. thanks for the info. is advaced adapters the only clocking ring?

There is a few places that make them. Novak and JB come to mind with JB's kit that comes with a new input shaft being the best.
JB Conversions, Inc.
I had an adapter for the TH350 to D300 in mine so I just redrilled it @6* the frist hole in the rings is usually 7*.
I'm taking my rear skid off now to get at the u-joints, I'll snap a couple pics of my crossmember and post them later.
 
cool. thank you.
 
since I have a chevy drive train with a D300 t/c mine will be different than yours but here's what I did.
The crossmember is a piece of 2X3 tube and the skid plates are 1/4" plate.
The crossmember has the trans. mount and the skids bolt to the frame seprate so they can be taken down to work on the t/c or trans. without taking the trans down.
They now hang down 1 1/4" below the frame, maybe not flat but alot better than before.
The rear skid is off in the first and last pic.
 
I did mine I needed a spacer for the extra length of the AW4 output shaft so why not clock it :) BTW for a NV3550 I believe is the same output shaft length as AW4 so the comments about re-drilling the transfer case may not work for you ???

You will need to balance how far you clock up and drive shaft clearance but in the right spot you will create more clearance.

For a shifter we made a twin stick that is a little different to most

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for mine we made a I beam cross member that runs alone the bottom of frame and across to for the transmission mount point to this we bolt on plate

net result is flat plate from spring hanger to spring hanger with about 4 to 5 " extra belly clearance and the ability to slide over rocks with no fear of damage if you play in mud a lot then make smaller skid as you get a suction effect with such a big flat surface

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