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clutch fork and pedal problem

clutch fork and pedal problem
B

Bret

Jeeper
Posts
21
Thanks
0
Location
Tomah, WI
Vehicle(s)
1976 CJ5 258 stock
Hello again. I just replaced the clutch on my '76 CJ5 for the second time. Everything appeared to go well. I haven't even started it up because the fork and pedal won't return after I push down the pedal. I messed with the springs and tried to add tension but it won't return without my help. I had a little bit of this problem the last time I replaced the clutch, which is probably why I wore out the pressure plate so fast.

Please help me out!

Thanks.
 
Its kinda hard to work from your description, but on my CJ, I did add a spring to the pedal so it would return beyond the amount of clutch pedal freeplay. Your issue does sound a bit more than that though. Does this seem to be a problem with the clutch, linkage, or pedal?
 
Are you sure the clutch's friction plate is facing the correct way?
Pull the pedal back to the top. How much free-play do you have when you push down on the pedal before you feel ANY resistance?
Who's clutch kit did you use? Can you post pictures to show us linkage etc??
LG
 
There seems to be a little resistance keeping the throwout bearing from sliding easily. I think that is the problem. When I replaced the clutch a few years ago and came here for help with the bell crank, I explained that my Jeep is old and in poor shape. The frame is not very solid and probably twisted when the cross member was removed. Since the throwout bearing pivots, I have a hard time believing a little misalignment is a huge problem.
 
The friction plate is facing shallow side toward the flywheel. The pedal freeplay is about right, I think. I used the M-Pact clutch kit from Rock Auto. I'm not sure about pictures, I can barely figure this forum out!
 
Never heard of that brand. Wonder where the parts come from? :confused:
I only use LUK clutch kits.
Yeah-NP about the pics deal-It's above my 'pay-grade' too :D
LG
 
You are going to have to pull the Transmission enough to see the throw out bearing shaft. Is it clean, is it rusty, is it all chewed up, Is you throw out bearing on backwards, is the fork attached to the bearing properly, don't laugh it can be tricky. Can you easily move the bearing on it's shaft?
 
Not sure of the setup in your CJ5 , but I am going to assume that the fork setup is the same as my CJ7 . The clutch fork pivots on a large ball bearing inside the bell housing. The only thing holding the ball bearing from falling out is a small spring that goes between the fork and an anchor point on the inside of the bell housing. The tension on this spring keeps the ball in pockets on the fork and the bell housing. Pressure from the pressure plate against the throw out bearing, and pressure from the clutch pedal adjusting rod keep everything in harmony by pushing from both directions. If this spring breaks or falls out, the fork looses its pivot point because the ball bearing can fall out. If this happens, the pedal will no longer return when you let off the clutch.
 
Thanks, everyone. The ball was/ is in place. I have to correct my thought about misalignment; the tranny and engine can't be misaligned when bolted together. The bell crank was last time, but that's not the issue now. I guess I'll separate it again and check the shaft and bearing like Hedgehog said. If anyone can think of anything before I get to the separation, by all means...

Thanks,

Bret

One more thing- I can't find the clutch pedal return spring depicted in the manual. I don't see any holes in the pedal rod to attach one to, either. That seems very relevant to my problem.
 
On my '86 I did have to drill a hole for that spring and I do not recall noticing a clutch pedal return spring in any of my manuals. It was just an add-on to take any load off the throwout bearing when the clutch is engaged.
 
That should be in place just to relieve drag on the TO bearing, the pressure plate is responsible for returning the pedal from the release position.
When you step on the clutch pedal do you have even pressure thru the whole travel range. Try a few half clutch applications and see if the pedal returns, might have something sticking.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
Of course if the TO remains in contact with the clutch fingers the TO bearing will eat itself in very short order (a very short time.)
 
Hedgehog said:
Of course if the TO remains in contact with the clutch fingers the TO bearing will eat itself in very short order (a very short time.)
Click to expand...
:agree: Hence the need to have adequate free play in the pedal.
 
The clutch bellcrank is another source of problems.
X2 on that linkage kit.
LG
 
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