Correcting drive shaft angle

[Flex BT]

My jeep has a pretty significant lift. The drive shaft angle is messed up according to everything I've read. Shims have been put in place to point the rear diff. straight at the transfer case, which is almost flat. To remedy this, is it as easy as just removing the U bolts on each side, taking the shims out and replacing everything? Is it possible to do this without replacing the U-bolts or should I have them in hand already before I start the work? I'm wondering how it will sit with the shims removed or if I will have to reverse them to get it close to correct. Damn POs.



From behind the driver's side tire:

 

[Old Dog]

A lot of lift kits come with shims to turn the pinion up toward the t/c., if it's pointing to the t/c a double cardan joint shaft should be used.
If you have a large lift the angle might be to steep without the shim for a regular single joint shaft.
What ever you do please go buy new u-bolts, do not reuse the old ones.

 

[Flex BT]

Ok, from what I've read the drive shaft should always have the same angle at the xfer case as the rear differential - is the only determining factor between getting a double cardan shaft and correcting the angle whether or not the drive shaft will be long enough or is there another factor? I was hoping I could just realign the rear axle and not have to drop $200 on a new drive shaft.

Thanks for the help!

Edit: Oh I see now what you're saying about the angle being too steep. How can I tell?

 

[Torxhead]

From what I see the rear pinion angle is fine if you are going to install The double cardian unit.

 

[Posi]

A lot of lift kits come with shims to turn the pinion up toward the t/c., if it's pointing to the t/c a double cardan joint shaft should be used.
If you have a large lift the angle might be to steep without the shim for a regular single joint shaft.
What ever you do please go buy new u-bolts, do not reuse the old ones.

This is excellent advice, especially the last sentence.

 

[mtnwhlr]

From what I see the rear pinion angle is fine if you are going to install The double cardian unit.

 

[Flex BT]

I wasn't planning on getting the double cardan until it was mentioned in this thread, my original plan was to remove and / or reverse the shims to make the angles match (or at least get much closer than they are now). Does it look like it might be to steep an angle to keep the single?

 

[harleydragon]

I use single joint driveshafts on jeeps that I spring over but I put about 1 1/4 inch transfer case drop on it which reduces the angle of the top joint

 

[Torxhead]

I wasn't planning on getting the double cardan until it was mentioned in this thread, my original plan was to remove and / or reverse the shims to make the angles match (or at least get much closer than they are now). Does it look like it might be to steep an angle to keep the single?

With the double cardian you will not have to lower the t-case and keeping the pinion angle up like that give you valuable ground clearance. You could try the method you suggest and see how it works, I am sure by now you have read Tom Woods "Driveline 101".

 

[Flex BT]

Instead of replacing the whole drive shaft can I get something like this:

Crown Automotive Part croj8130296 - Double Cardan Center Yoke - - 4 Wheel Parts

And just add it on my current setup? Still pretty dern pricey.

 

[Torxhead]

There are a few parts that go inside that thing of course, more than just the u-joints. I took mine to a local driveshaft shop where they shortened the driveshaft to the correct length to add that yoke assembly and added a heavier wall tube.

 

[PaRenegade]

The pumpkin yoke should be pointed straight at the t-case when you use a cv joint. Otherwise, the angle should match the angle of the t-case yoke. For example if the tcase yoke is angling down 4 degrees from horizontal, then the pumpkin yoke should angle up 4 degrees from horizontal. This is adjusted with the shims. A drop in the tcase skid plate may be needed to adjust the angle at the top.

 

[Flex BT]

So can I just add a CV joint and one u-joint like this one:

NAPA AUTO PARTS

Or does it require a different yoke on the t-case or anything else?

 

[Old Dog]

You need a new yoke for the tc.
To stay on the cheap side I would either have a local driveshaft place make one up or you can get a front shaft from a xj or 90's explorer and have it shortened and rebalanced.

 

[Flex BT]

I looked on Quadratec and didn't find any yokes that said they were for single or double cardan shafts. Why is a new yoke needed, is it a clearance issue? It looks like the old one would connect to the u-joint the same way.

edit: I did get a new yoke for the transfer case about a year ago but it wasn't specific to single or double cardan either IIRC.

 

[Old Dog]

Are you having problems with the set-up you have now? Or do you want to change it because you think it's wrong.

Here's a link to (lots of good info)Tom Woods site, just below the drawn pic's of the proper geometry it states that you need a new yoke which he sells for $60.
Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist

Here's one on ebay Dana 300 Transfer Case Heavy Duty 1310 CV Yoke Spicer 2 4 4341 26 Spline | eBay

 

[mtnwhlr]

You need a new yoke for the tc.
To stay on the cheap side I would either have a local driveshaft place make one up or you can get a front shaft from a xj or 90's explorer and have it shortened and rebalanced.

The axle end looks fine to me the other end would be your problem and what Old Dog said would be your cheapest route.

 

[Flex BT]

Yeah, bad vibrations and I blew up a U joint last year. I was looking at the Tom Woods shafts at $269-$299, any recommendations for cheaper options?

 

[Old Dog]

I've heard Tatton is good but it doesn't look like he is to much cheaper.
http://stores.ebay.ca/TATTONS-DRIVESHAFTS

 

[Torxhead]

For cheaper options I would suggest using existing parts, like your old driveshaft if it is still any good. I had mine done by a local driveshaft shop though.