Dana 30 to GM 3/4ton disc conversion

Dana 30 to GM 3/4ton disc conversion

Knighttime85

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Location
Whitehouse, Texas
Vehicle(s)
1981 CJ-7 383 SBC, Holley Truck Avenger 670cfm carb with a T350 transmission, Dana 300 transfer case twin sticked, AMC 20 rear end with a Detroit, Dana 30 front, H1 Hummer steering box swap, Sams Offroad steering brace, on 35's, Custom built rock sliders, White Rhino Fab flat fenders, Custom built winch plate with Mile Maker 8500# winch.
Hey guys,

My stock Dana 30 brakes are really struggling to stop my 35's, and I've been reading some about swapping for GM brakes to help compensate for the larger tires. Has anyone out there done a similar conversion or know someone who has? I am looking for parts needed, and from what year model mostly.

Thanks,
Tristan
 
From what I understand you grab everything knuckle out, so your stub shaft /knuckle/ rotor/bearings/ lockout/caliper/ caliper adapters

On further thought you would have to do a high steer conversion to use Dana 44 knuckles


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From what I understand you grab everything knuckle out, so your stub shaft /knuckle/ rotor/bearings/ lockout/caliper/ caliper adapters

On further thought you would have to do a high steer conversion to use Dana 44 knuckles


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So essentially a complete outer assembly then.
 
Post number 4:
https://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f19/brake-conversion-5523/

I see this person hasn't been active in a while or I would shoot them a message.

I'm in the process of building a Dana 44 front and I'll do Reid knuckles and high steer when I get there but I'm not that way along yet. That's why I'm looking for a temporary solution
 
I went the more pricey route when I swapped discs for drums on my Dana 30 ...

I used a kit from Horsepower Sales, LLC vice figuring out what I needed from a pick-and-pull.

You can look up his stuff on ebay, but when I ordered, I gave him a call and ordered everything over the phone. I don't know what his parts are native to...never asked...but this was a true bolt-on kit. No cutting or grinding whatsoever.

You will, however, need to get a new master cylinder and pro-valve, if you haven't already. I also ran new brake lines to all 4 wheels because I relocated my pro-valve from the frame to just under the master cylinder.

When I bought his kit, I got the powder coated dust shields and Timken bearings, which were extra.

Whole process...not including MC, pro-valve, and brake line install...took about 3 hours.

With shipping, I was just under $800. Well worth it in my opinion. The guy who runs the shop is really nice and extremely helpful. I'd recommend him to anyone looking to do a disc swap.
 

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