Dana 300 adapter plate

Dana 300 adapter plate

driver007

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Location
Canada
Vehicle(s)
1981 cj5 304 v8, 300 Dana,model 30 Dana and model 20 AMC rear end
In the process of rebuilding the t case. It might have been done by the po. On the adapter plate what way does the seal face. There already is one on the t case. Does it go on with the steel facing towards it or the tranny. I was under the impression that the input shaft does not have a seal so it would have to go on with the steel facing the transfer case so to seal the trannt. I just can not find a pic of the adapter plate with a seal in it.
 
Here's a pic. Think of oil seal direction like this, the cupped or hollow side of the metal faces the oil you are trying to keep in. The t case one is oriented in the same way, trying to keep the oil in the t case. There is a weep hole in the bottom of the adapter to let you know one of the seals is bad (oil leaks into the adapter and drips out the hole) or that you screwed up and put the seal in backwards.:D


Coat the input and the seal before mating the t case and trans so they slide and less chance of ripping the seal up.

IMG_0523.JPG



Here's a pic of the t case seal. Sorry no pic of the new seal.

108_0838.JPG
 
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Thanks Vince That is what I thought but a double check is eaiser then a redo. I got 2 more manuals in the mail today hope they solve some of my dealings.I canot get my output housing off for love or money. Here are a couple of pics perhaps you or someone can tell me what is holding it on. I pulled the shaft ,speedo, yoke. It is on soild.More then just rtv. Is there a snap ring or something I missed?
 
In the process of rebuilding the t case. It might have been done by the po. On the adapter plate what way does the seal face. There already is one on the t case. Does it go on with the steel facing towards it or the tranny. I was under the impression that the input shaft does not have a seal so it would have to go on with the steel facing the transfer case so to seal the trannt. I just can not find a pic of the adapter plate with a seal in it.

Driver007, could I pls buy into this thread?

I've been stretching the reliability string of a 1980 CJ7 /AMC 304 /TF999 /Dana 300 . On the last 60 mile run, I topped off the txfer case with Lucas80-90 wt. In the last four miles, I developed a hard vibration, and on checking the T-case, found it very hot. You could touch it for 20 seconds of so until it got too uncomfortable - I'd guess AMC 150 degrees F.

So now it is NOVAK rebuild kit and tear-down just as you are doing. I'm sure I'll run into some problems different from yours, and others can profit by our experiences.

Are there any high-time Jeep drivers reading this who would have alternate ideas or additional input?

Dammit! I hate to park my Jeep while I rebuild. This is the good argument for two Jeeps, but I get the exact response as if I suggested two wives. "You can't afford two and you're pressed to take care of the one you got!"
 
Solved my problem, put a nut on the shaft and dead hammered it and was able to break it loose. Next time it will be eaiser hate ripping stuff apart were I am not clear on how they are put together. Parts for a 300 up here are gold hate to break any of them.
 
Hay Dhugg I will try to take some pics now that I have it all apart. Not really to bad a job. I used the arbor press in my welding shop only took a couple of minutes to split the gears. I will put them in order, once you see them it is way less stressfull.
 
Hay Dhugg I will try to take some pics now that I have it all apart. Not really to bad a job. I used the arbor press in my welding shop only took a couple of minutes to split the gears. I will put them in order, once you see them it is way less stressfull.

Good on ya... Thanks.

I just drained the TCase this afternoon - the drain plug magnet had iron filings. Just enough to cover the head of a paper match. Plenty of fluid and not burned or water-mixed. Looked like the TCase had not been regularly serviced. I'll find out about the iron filings when I get it open. I, too, will take good pictures and help out if I can.

Denny
 
Having trouble downloading pics hope it works. I noticed the thrust washer is on the left side of the bearing and it should be on the right side next to the gear sorry.
 
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Some morer pics
 
Having trouble downloading pics hope it works. I noticed the thrust washer is on the left side of the bearing and it should be on the right side next to the gear sorry.

Just what I need! I talked to NOVAK just now, and the suggestion was that the heavy vibration and heat was likely the intermediate transfer shaft. Some iron on the magnet is normal, but no real analysis is possible without regular oil change and magnet check.

The original factory tags, two stainless stamped rectangles, were still in place under the steel square held by the loosened bolt under the DANA stamp.

So the NOVAK kit is on the way, and your photos will help teardown starting today. Much obliged.

Denny
 
The square tag on the shaft should have been in the slot on the shaft the picture looks like it is on the out side. It could have just slide out the other side. I was just going to reseal but now I am going to do all the bearings.
 
Some more tare down
 
Re: Dana 300 adapter plate & 4WD shift connector

I have hit a simple roadblock in tearing down the Dana 300 on a 1980 CJ7 AMC 304 .... disconnecting the 4WD shifter from the aluminum bearing cover on the top rear of the case.

The shifter is bolted to a horizontal bar on the inside of the aluminum case, near body centerline, with a (rusty) 9/16th nut. It is off. The horiz. bar is spring-clipped at the aluminum case and secured by two sliding washers. The t-case shift rod is pinned to a slider by a steel pin with a cotter pin in the bottom end.

All this is disconnected. but the secret handshake that gets the 4WD shifter off the horizontal rod is something I couldn't dope out. Chilton's on page 7-51 just says "remove the shift lever assembly".

I went to Moses Ludel's Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual, but the Dana 300 section starts with the case on the workbench.

If I can get the back aluminum housing off, I can get a reasonable wrench on the top 9/16th flanged nut holding the T-case to the tranny adapter.

If someone who has rebuilt one or two would just give me a clue, I can possibly get on with it.

BTW, it looks as if this TCase has never been opened, Whatever sealant (if any) Chrysler used on the gaskets has evaporated. No wonder there was persistent leakage!

Everyone said Jeeps were an adventure. I thought they meant driving one!

Denny
 
Some more tare down

Nice brass drift punch in image one. You better hide that! The perps in my area are stealing brass buttons off the corpses' uniforms in Civil War cemeteries.
 
Denny take a pic on your problem. Mine was no problem coming out. One of the pros will have the answer. As for the brass I found a 10' legnth at work, works great. I machined it down to fit in side my pilot bushing for the install worked great.
 
Denny take a pic on your problem. Mine was no problem coming out. One of the pros will have the answer. As for the brass I found a 10' legnth at work, works great. I machined it down to fit in side my pilot bushing for the install worked great.

FInally got it figured out today. There were two knowledge gaps.... didn't realize the threaded bolt and nut passing through the shifter was threaded inside the shifter as well. I had it figured for just a simple smooth surfaced slide-off. Second, didn't realize there were two slipout pins with cotter keys in the lower shifter slide. Once the NOVAK parts kit came in, their teardown printout had a better explanation than either Moses Ludel's or Chilton's manuals.

The real work begins now... cleanup. The Dana 300 had been leaking for a long time, not bad, just a long time. All the sand and mud mixed in well, and has to be scraped off and then washed.

Thanks for the assist.... I'll probably need it again in a few days.

Denny
 
When the case is empty, scrape the big chunks out of the corners, then Easy Off oven cleaner. Works great on cast iron T cases.:D
 
Vince do not tell me you put it in the oven after LOL.
 
Vince have you played around with the poppet springs. Why do they make one weeker then the other. Novak mentions replacement with stronger springs why not put two strong ones in?
 
Well..... I did think about it.:D But the can says you can do it without an oven, and had some brownies in the oven at the time. I have priorities you know.:)

Took it to the car wash and put the stuff on, waited the time, low pressure washed it (don't want to splash that stuff on yourself), then high pressure. Then repeated.

One of the guys on a forum that will remain nameless, powder coated his block and head. He cleaned them, then baked them to get the old oil out, cleaned them again, baked them again, cleaned, then powder coated them. Said baking was the only way he felt it would come out clean enough for the powder to last. Powder coated his T-4 in chrome and then clear. Looks awesome.

The only reason that I can come up with for not using 2 strong springs is that it would be a bear to shift. The springs and balls are what holds it in gear I believe, and at times the rods are in different positions where you are only using one of the detents in the rods, sometimes 2. With having to move two rods into position depressing 2 balls at the same time might be really tough. Remember, sometimes one rod is further out than the other, sometimes the same and sometimes the opposite. That's the way I look at it, don't know for sure.
 

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