Dana 44 Tough to turn

[JR74CJ5]

Hey Guys.

So a while back, I did some work the the rear 44. http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/leaky-dana-44-crack-12692/ and after reinstalling the axles, seems it's turning to tightly... Almost like brakes are dragging. I have ruled out that (brakes dragging).

I did notice one of my axle shafts does show a slight twist on the splines. I am assuming this is most of my problem here. Maybe the axle is not being allowed to slide fully in to the carrier.

What do you guys think?

I'm planning to unhook the drive line to rule out outside interference. And check for any signs of issues within the 3rd member (R&P gears, and spider gears) and then just buy the new Chrome molly shafts, have new seals and bearings pressed on (unless anyone has a good trick for doing that without a press in the man cave ) and hopefully that was the issue.



~ JR

 

[Torxhead]

That axle shaft and housing should be checked for straightness and have those bearings pressed on. If you cannot find any reason for it binding up, it might be time to send it to a pro. In your area I would think you might have a few to choose from.

 

[JR74CJ5]

If you cannot find any reason for it binding up, it might be time to send it to a pro. In your area I would think you might have a few to choose from.

I'm with you there, but assume my reason for binding is the twisted (slightly) axle shaft splines on drivers side.

And it's not a complete "bind" so to say (which i don't think you meant either) more like a resistance against turning. I hear a ever so slight rub or friction noise also...

 

[Old Dog]

JR. did you change the bearings? (sorry I didn't go back and read the thread)

 

[JR74CJ5]

Nope didn't change them... still looked good, as did the races so thought they'd be good.

Brother also reminded me that when we had that axle out, we noticed some movement of the bearing and seal. Wondering if since the end splines were twisted slightly, the axle was not pushed fully back into the engagement point and when the outer retaining plate was reinstalled with the 6 bolts, it actually unpressed the bearing some... Hard to explain. I'll try to get some pictures of what I am talking about.

Basically there is a round section close to the outer section of the axle shaft that is like a "stop" large round ring. then there is the bearing, then outer seal. the outer seal and bearing have movement between outside (I assume tapered?) section of the axle shaft and the (what I am trying to describe above) retaining "ring"

I'll try and get some pictures tomorrow if the rain is not too constant.



~ JR

 

[IOPort51]

Just for the sake of conversation, welds shrink and when they do they change things that were straight into things that are no longer straight. You mention something rubbing? it will be interesting to see if you have any polished "rub" marks on your axle,carrier, whatever. I find it hard to believe that the welds you made on the tubes would distort the line enough that it would affect the axle/bearing alignment. It will also be interesting to see how much resistance you encounter with the drive shaft removed and the axle on stands. This will more than likely go a long way toward isolating the area of the problem.

If I am not mistaken the "retaining ring" you speak of gets cut off when new bearings are pressed on.


I can't wait to see how this all comes out

 

[jasonmark1993]

Generally the twisted splines is just years of torque/hp on axles that arent strong enough. Shouldn't really make it tough to turn though. Unless that is somehow affecting the spiders; maybe the twisted splines is binding one. Like you are planning, you should be able to feel which side it is with it on stands. I'd do it with the wheels on, just the drums, then pull one axle and try the other until you isolate the problem. If the drums aren't hanging up it should be the spider gears. You'll probably have to have a buddy hold one side while you spin the other, or just leave one wheel on the ground at a time.

I agree with IO, even if the welds did distort things a little or even protrude into the axle tube, I can't see them contacting the axle shaft. There has to be 1/2" or so clearance all the way around.

 

[JR74CJ5]

Well I have ordered up some new chrome-molly shafts, and will be having new bearings and seals pressed on when they arrive at the end of this month. Going to install those, and hopefully if that's not the issue, figure out from there what is...

I've also (on a completely separate note) been given the green light from the lady on the on board air, and 1" body lift (yes I know, but temporarily using it until I figure out what spring lift I want etc) so some work to do when everything arrives to hopefully get ready for memorial day camping trip at loon lake (right by the Rubicon Trail)

Almost got the ARB front Dana 30 air locker too, but when she asked if I NEEDED it before the camping trip, i couldn't look her in the eyes and say "yes babe, wont run without it"...



~ JR

 

[Old Dog]

sounds like a plan. who's shafts you go with?

 

[Petescj]

Start practicing in front of a mirror now. It will make the next purchase alot easier.

Almost got the ARB front Dana 30 air locker too, but when she asked if I NEEDED it before the camping trip, i couldn't look her in the eyes and say "yes babe, wont run without it"...
~ JR

 

[IOPort51]

you are going to have to learn to lie to her, it's for her own good!!

 

[JR74CJ5]

I went with the alloy usa shafts from summit racing: Alloy USA 21147 - Alloy USA Differential & Rear-End Components - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Found the part number from alloys website direct as summit didnt show it by application.

And Pete and IO you guys are killing me...

 

[73CJ]

I've twisted splines. That's not the problem though.

No ones asked what kind of differential. Open or locker?

I heat the retaining collar in the oven to 450 or so. Drop it on and use a proper diameter pipe and a 3 pound maul. Gotta be quick though.

You have to cut the old one off with a cutoff wheel at an angle. Don't go too deep. Get as close as you can and finish it with a cold chisel. You'll have cut the to get the retainer plate anyway.

Since you have to have the drums off any way, make sure it runs free minus the drums. Disconnect the driveshaft as well.

Keep in mind that the axle will be much harder to turn than the pinion shaft.