Does the rubber just pull off?

Does the rubber just pull off?

VT Woodsman

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Northern Vermont
Vehicle(s)
1978 cj7 304 v8 , 4speed which i think is out of a newer cj. Im pretty sure it has a stock transfer case.
I want to paint my windshield frame, but tapeing up the rubber around the glass seems like a pain. Should i try to pull the rubber off,or will i have a hard time putting it back in? Basicly whats the best way to paint the window frame? Damn rubbers:eek:
 
Tape over it with painters tape. Thats your windshield gasket and you cant just pull it out per say. Its what keeps your windshield in the frame and watertight. :)
I want to paint my windshield frame, but tapeing up the rubber around the glass seems like a pain. Should i try to pull the rubber off,or will i have a hard time putting it back in? Basicly whats the best way to paint the window frame? Damn rubbers:eek:
 
It's not to hard to pull the w/s and gasket but if you are not carefull it is easy to break the glass.
 
id like to take it off to sand it down on a workbench,the por15 it.
 
Then I would suggest doing so. Spray the inside of the frame with a rust preventative too. The pinch weld under the ws seal is a notoriously bad spot for rust to form. I would remove everything from the frame and spray that separately when you paint, as opposed to it being mounted. That way theres no unprotected areas for rust to get a foothold on. But if you do POR it you'll have to spray it before it dries with TieCote or a primer of your choice, to allow you to topcoat it later.
Something I also did was to block off (after painting the inside) the frame on both ends of the bottom with some sheetmetal and rtv sealer so the air wasn't circulating around the entire ws frame. That warm air will condense and create moisture within. Plus your defrosters will have more airflow.
 
Then I would suggest doing so. Spray the inside of the frame with a rust preventative too. The pinch weld under the ws seal is a notoriously bad spot for rust to form. I would remove everything from the frame and spray that separately when you paint, as opposed to it being mounted. That way theres no unprotected areas for rust to get a foothold on. But if you do POR it you'll have to spray it before it dries with TieCote or a primer of your choice, to allow you to topcoat it later.
Something I also did was to block off (after painting the inside) the frame on both ends of the bottom with some sheetmetal and rtv sealer so the air wasn't circulating around the entire ws frame. That warm air will condense and create moisture within. Plus your defrosters will have more airflow.
Would you have any pics of your airflow blockage per chance? I'd like to see how you worked around the wiper linkage.
 
I don't have any good pics other than this one. You can only put the blocks at the two ends of the defrost duct slots because of the linkages for the wipers, but it still eliminates 3 sides. I cut some sheet metal roughly to the wndsh. frames profile and left a tab on top, so I could rotate it in the frame and then bend it over to keep it in place. Once it was in I sealed around it's edge with rtv using the tubes nozzle and a screwdriver to smear it into place the best I could.

I heard of another guy getting some closed cell foam pieces and cutting a slightly oversized piece, then wedging that in there.

windsheild042.jpg
 

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