Drag Link Install

[jafo]

Ok. Nearing the end of the 4" lift kit install. I ordered the Rugged Ridge HD drag link and tie rod kit. I have ran into a small issue. I got the drag link joint on the drivers side installed. I went to the passenger side and the joint on that end doesn't want to line up with the hole because the drag link diameter won't let me drop the bar low enough to line it up. It's making contact with the top of the leaf springs. I can see only two options. One is to loosen the leaf spring u-bolts to give me enough clearance, or is it possible to mount the drag link from the top instead of the bottom? It looks like the clearance will be really close even after it's tightened down. Anyone run this kit on their jeep?

 

[tarry99]

Ok. Nearing the end of the 4" lift kit install. I ordered the Rugged Ridge HD drag link and tie rod kit. I have ran into a small issue. I got the drag link joint on the drivers side installed. I went to the passenger side and the joint on that end doesn't want to line up with the hole because the drag link diameter won't let me drop the bar low enough to line it up. It's making contact with the top of the leaf springs. I can see only two options. One is to loosen the leaf spring u-bolts to give me enough clearance, or is it possible to mount the drag link from the top instead of the bottom? It looks like the clearance will be really close even after it's tightened down. Anyone run this kit on their jeep?

First off the Drag Link should go from your Pitman arm off of the Steering gear to the passenger side knuckle............I assume that is what you stated by saying the drivers side was installed.

Not uncommon when using a larger diameter drag link or tie rod to have that happen.

Most folks do a tie-rod flip and drag link flip to fix that issue.........kits are available to drill the holes out to allow a tapered sleeve to be installed in the opposite direction..........or you can buy / rent or borrow the proper sized reamer and ream those holes out yourself..........the Pittman arm end may also need to be addressed if that joint gets put in a bind do to the change of height at the passengers side..............

Without knowing exactly what your doing there may be other fixes .........post some Pictures of the angles at the steering gear and where it hits the springs.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Those are tapered mounting holes I believe.
Can you post some pictures, so we can see what you are seeing?
LG

 

[jafo]

Those are tapered mounting holes I believe.
Can you post some pictures, so we can see what you are seeing?
LG

I'll try to.post some pics as soon as my LT is done updating. I hate windows 10.

 

[jafo]

First off the Drag Link should go from your Pitman arm off of the Steering gear to the passenger side knuckle............I assume that is what you stated by saying the drivers side was installed.

Not uncommon when using a larger diameter drag link or tie rod to have that happen.

Most folks do a tie-rod flip and drag link flip to fix that issue.........kits are available to drill the holes out to allow a tapered sleeve to be installed in the opposite direction..........or you can buy / rent or borrow the proper sized reamer and ream those holes out yourself..........the Pittman arm end may also need to be addressed if that joint gets put in a bind do to the change of height at the passengers side..............

Without knowing exactly what your doing there may be other fixes .........post some Pictures of the angles at the steering gear and where it hits the springs.

I swore they refered to the long bar as the drag link and the short bar was the tie rod. Then Icve seen where they call both tie rods. I'm refering to the long bar from knuckle to knuckle. The short bar doesn't look to have any fitment or clearance issues. I am probably wrong with that estimation, so don't hold me to it.

 

[jafo]

Those are tapered mounting holes I believe.
Can you post some pictures, so we can see what you are seeing?
LG

OK here it goes......

 

[tarry99]

OK here it goes......

OK that is a Tie Rod..............the short one is the Drag link.

Easy Fix and gets your tie rod up out of the way a little higher...........I like these inserts..........Goferit Products! although Google Tie Rod flip and you'll see many others..........some claim you can install these without removing the knuckles.......maybe??? but it's much easier in the drill press.........You may also look at doing the same to your drag Link.

Good Luck!

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Yes-Tie rod and not drag link.
The kit Tarry posted, is the 'KISS' solution.
Tho-I have never welded them in place. I just pressed them in with stud and bearing Locktite.
LG

 

[Torxhead]

I like these:Rock Equipment Tie Rod Flip Kit | OK4WD
As a taper fit will lock in better than a hand drilled thru hole even with locktite.

 

[jafo]

I like these:Rock Equipment Tie Rod Flip Kit | OK4WD
As a taper fit will lock in better than a hand drilled thru hole even with locktite.

Have you done this mod? Pretty easy? It looks like the rotors might have to be removed to make room for the reamer handle.

Either kit looks like it would do the job. Deciding whether to drill or ream.

I did get the tie rod on by taking both ends out of the center section and installing them first then threading the center back on. Didn't take long. The is no doubt, they will have to be flipped. Clearance is zilch and worse when turning the wheels. I could only get one end of the drag link on. It hits the leaf spring also.

While I have your guys attention, I got another question on this. Both the drag link and tie rod have one end that is extended a little further than the other. Not talking about the threaded portion of the ends, just the cast portion. The longer ends go to the passenger side knuckle right?

 

[jafo]

Oh and as always, thanks for the help everyone. I like different options.

I think I might just grab me a couple tie rod ends and a drag link in the mean time. I'd like to get this thing on the ground and going this week. It kills me seeing it up on jack stands.

 

[Torxhead]

I had my knuckles welded up and machined long before those diy kits came out. I do think there is plenty of room for the reamer handle, if not you might want to call the manufacturer on that. You might have a difference in the tie rod ends since there are right and left hand threads for ease in adjusting length.

 

[jafo]

I had my knuckles welded up and machined long before those diy kits came out. I do think there is plenty of room for the reamer handle, if not you might want to call the manufacturer on that. You might have a difference in the tie rod ends since there are right and left hand threads for ease in adjusting length.

Wow. That would be a project.