drive shaft removal

dont have video but its real easy to do you just need to remove the 4 bolts from the straps that cover the u joint on the front and rear of the dshaft if it has u bolts that hold the u joints to the yoke then u need to remove the nuts from the backside of the yoke u should be able to pull it out then sorry for the spelling im on my cellphone
 
I was told to mark the drive shaft before removal, so that it can be installed back in the proper position. I learned this after I had already removed both front and rear drive shaft, and rolled my axles/wheels all over my garage. :bang: How do I get it right again, and what can happen if not placed back in its proper position?
 
put in new u joints and there is no need to know how it was before.
you are just compensating for wear and tear on the ujoint cups.
Driveshafts are balanced so they need no,other orientation
 
put in new u joints and there is no need to know how it was before.
you are just compensating for wear and tear on the ujoint cups.
Driveshafts are balanced so they need no,other orientation


Boy!! Is that a load off of my mind, now if I can just sew that tag back on the mattress!!:cool:

Are you having problems removing the drive shaft?? or is there another reason to need a diagram?:confused:
 
dont have video but its real easy to do you just need to remove the 4 bolts from the straps that cover the u joint on the front and rear of the dshaft if it has u bolts that hold the u joints to the yoke then u need to remove the nuts from the backside of the yoke u should be able to pull it out then sorry for the spelling im on my cellphone

sounds right only 4 bolts on each end and take it out. easy stuff, just don't drop it on your head.:D
 
thanks for the help. the Transmission is stuck in gear and I can't get it loaded on a trailer. it was sitting inside an old sapphire mine and a rollback cant get up there. My truck had no problems lol. What a way to start a project huh?
 
Can you shift the Transfer Case into neutral and rope-tow it out with your truck?
 
Dropping the shaft or shafts on a CJ inside an abandoned mine so you can load it on a trailer sounds like all kinds of fun and a great story to tell around a camp fire, you couldn’t pay some one to write a better story for you. Why don’t cool things like that ever happen to me??:dunno:
But that looks like the way it will have to be.:cool:

 
The Transmission and Transfer Case are BOTH locked in gear? That doesn't sound very good!

Ok, you don't have to take the whole driveshaft out. Take the rear U-joint out of the yoke at the axle, being really careful not to drop either of the u-joint caps off (lose needles & you'll have to replace the u-joint). Wrap the u-joint with about six wraps of electrical tape to keep the caps on. Hang the driveshaft out of the way on either side of the differential with fairly heavy wire of some sort - even a wire coat hanger will do the job. That sets the rear axle free, so if the front lockout hubs aren't locked the Jeep WILL ROLL. On top of your pants leg, maybe - CHOCK the WHEELS.

Now when you're out from under it, you can unlock the front hubs & remove the chocks and tow it merrily down the road, leaving the front end of the rear drive shaft right where it is.

I dragged a '74 CJ5 from Manchester, NH back home to Bradford, VT on the Interstate that way.That was easier than doofin' around checking fluid levels & topping 'em off just so I could tow it with the driveshaft in place, and it served as insurance against the shifter dropping into gear en route.
 
yeah the old CJ is in need of some serious TLC but considering where its been sitting and how much money I have involved in it, It's worth it. I was looking on craigs list a couple days ago and found a guy asking 600 for a frame and body tub so i figure 500 for mine is pretty decent lol. I'll take some pics of the sapphire mine too. The guy that owns the place is a bit odd but what do you expect from an old miner from way back in the mountains of NC lol? oh wait, I'm from here too lol
 
Six bills for a good frame and tub is CHEAP.

Ya figure some of the sapphire dust got into the gearboxes? If it did... they may be roast toast. They're not terribly hard to come by, though.
 
when i bought it, i kinda counted on pretty much all the mechanicals would be fried and I was buying a frame and body so either way it won't be a suprise. I had no idea these things kept their value like this! I showed a few guys the pictures of it at work and had several offers to double my money.
 
I've got a 36'x75' barn and I've been building a loft in it 'cause it's getting too crowded to turn around... :D
 
put in new u joints and there is no need to know how it was before.
you are just compensating for wear and tear on the ujoint cups.
Driveshafts are balanced so they need no,other orientation

Close but not quite...
The only wear on the U joint is inside the cups, so it wouldn't matter how they are oriented on the yolk. If the U-Joint cups are rotating in the straps/Ubolts, thats a whole 'nuther set of problems.
Driveshafts are balanced, but they are also set 'in phase', which means that when you lay the shaft on a concrete floor, if the slip shaft is oriented correctly the ends will sit flat and level to each other. THis is very important to control vibrations and harmonics. Normally nothing to worry about unless the 2 parts of the shaft separate.
 
Close but not quite...
The only wear on the U joint is inside the cups, so it wouldn't matter how they are oriented on the yolk. If the U-Joint cups are rotating in the straps/Ubolts, thats a whole 'nuther set of problems.
Driveshafts are balanced, but they are also set 'in phase', which means that when you lay the shaft on a concrete floor, if the slip shaft is oriented correctly the ends will sit flat and level to each other. THis is very important to control vibrations and harmonics. Normally nothing to worry about unless the 2 parts of the shaft separate.
If they separate you can be right or 180 degrees wrong??:confused:
 

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