Drive shafts
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Drive shafts
- Thread starter Hazmat146
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- Springfield, Missouri-U.S.A. Earth
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- '85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
YES-with a SOA, both of DS will need to be longer.
As well as your shocks and brake lines.
LG
As well as your shocks and brake lines.
LG
Torxhead
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
Adding constant velocity u-joints could also help with the steep driveshaft angles.
mriplaybass
Full Time Jeeper
With Torx and Lumpy. Also, don't forget to check pinion angle and steering linkage.
CJim7
Crazy Sr. Respected Jeeper
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- '84 CJ7 - 430hp 401 on propane - T18a/D300 twinsticked, Superior axles, Lockers, full boatsides, Warn 8274, OBA, 36" TSL's.
I would HIGHLY suggest this. Typically a 4" lift will often create the need for a tranfercase lowering kit....so you can imagine what approximately 6 inches of lift will do (the norm for SOA)
Cut the spring perches, reweld to about 3°↓ pinion angle from the Transfer Case output, install CV driveline
73CJ
Crazy Sr. Respected Jeeper
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- 73 CJ5 4.0 head on a 258, HEI, Holley Projection w/ 4.56, Detroit lockers Narrowed D44 front and full float D44 rear T14 w/ D20 4 wheel discs, 38.5 Boggers
Check out Tom Woods drives shafts. Or better yet give him a call. This guys knows drive shafts and they are reasonable. CV in the rear for sure. CVs ended my reoccurring ujoint replacement problems
PistolDave
Active Jeeper
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- 1977 CJ-7 SBC 5.7 TBI, TH400, D300, D44 front, D44 rear, 4.56's Detroit / Truetrac, SOA, 35" MTR-K's,
------------86 CJ-7 258 - T5 - AMC20/D30 3.30 open f/r - Dana 300 - 2" BDS wrangler springs - 31x10.5 BFG
************* 83 CJ7 3.8L, T19 5.1:1, D300, D30/AMC20, 4.11's, Chevy TBI, OX lockers, OME 2.5" lift YJ springs, 33x10.50/15 KM3's, Lots of rust and zip ties.
My CJ7 is SOA with basically stock arch YJ springs. Drivetrain is AMC V8, GM Turbo 400 , Dana 300 with JB Conversions rear output, and Dana 44 rear axle. Based on the angles that I had there was no realistic way to make a conventional u-joint driveshaft work because of binding at full droop. I clocked the rear pinion to point at the Transfer Case output and installed a Tom Woods CV driveshaft and it has worked great. Tom Woods was also great to deal with and i ordered my driveshafts on a monday and had them in hand by friday afternoon.
Oh, yeah, you might also strongly consider running an antiwrap bar on the rear axle to control spring windup under acceleration. Before I installed mine, I could turn my rear springs into an 'S' shape with a light tap of the throttle. The one I used came from RuffStuff Specialties : http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/AWKIT.html
Oh, yeah, you might also strongly consider running an antiwrap bar on the rear axle to control spring windup under acceleration. Before I installed mine, I could turn my rear springs into an 'S' shape with a light tap of the throttle. The one I used came from RuffStuff Specialties : http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/AWKIT.html
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