dropping transfer case

[thistle3585]

I am going to drop my Transfer Case 1" to help with my drive shaft angle. I have seen two different types of spacers. One is a solid steel spacer and the other is a poly bushing with a steel sleeve insert. Why would I choose one over the other?

 

[Torxhead]

I was not aware of using a poly bushing at that application, shows you what I know. I would think that the poly would cause it to move around and loosen the skid plate bolts.

 

[Jimbos76cj]

You can make your own.. I would use 3/8" 1x2 steel k.. cut to length, lay your existing cross member on top of it and mark for length and holes. Cut drill and drink a beer. Are you having drive line vibrations?

 

[thistle3585]

You can make your own.. I would use 3/8" 1x2 steel k.. cut to length, lay your existing cross member on top of it and mark for length and holes. Cut drill and drink a beer. Are you having drive line vibrations?

So you're suggesting a steel bar as opposed to individual spacers?

No. There are no vibrations but I'm more concerned about the amount of travel in my drive shaft. I think I only have about 5/8" in the slip yoke. I put some new springs on which gave me a bit more lift than I anticipated. I'd rather be safe than sorry.

 

[Jimbos76cj]

So you're suggesting a steel bar as opposed to individual spacers?

No. There are no vibrations but I'm more concerned about the amount of travel in my drive shaft. I think I only have about 5/8" in the slip yoke. I put some new springs on which gave me a bit more lift than I anticipated. I'd rather be safe than sorry.

Yes steel bar. the bushings with the inserts really have no added advantage.. you are tightening the bolt tight against the steel insert so there is no vibration reduction. IMHO dropping the case wont help make up that much difference if any.. I would look into having your drive shaft lengthened a little.. might cost the same as the drop kit. Or take yours out, measure it and see how long it is and see if any one has a used one thats an inch or two longer.

 

[coldair]

I just priced a Tom woods drive shaft for my CJ7 they said $214. Then I called a shop that builds drive shafts they quoted me $140 to retube my old one. That's two new u joints, wielding the tube and balancing it.

 

[Jimbos76cj]

I think you also need a new yoke for your Transfer Case and to turn your a me pinikn angle up a lot.. You will either need to cut and reeled on new spring perches or put in some ridiculous wedges. With a double cardan joint you need the pinion to point directly at the Transfer Case yoke minus a degree or two for flex.

 

[thistle3585]

I got to thinking about this some more. A month ago, I replaced the stock springs with new springs and got about 2" of lift in the rear but I had not done anything with the front springs. That would mean the front is 2" lower than the back. So, if I were to lift the front 2", when installing the front springs, it could realign/level the Transfer Case and I would gain more slip travel in my drive shaft. I say this because I noticed earlier in the week when I removed the front tires, and lowered the front end on to jack stands preparing to remove the springs, that the rear drive shaft slid out more to account for the Transfer Case being at a steeper angle. Any of this make sense?

 

[Old Dog]

I'd wait till you change the front springs and see what it looks like.
I wouldn't drop the t/c if I didn't have to, why lose ground clearance.

 

[JR74CJ5]

I'd wait till you change the front springs and see what it looks like.
I wouldn't drop the t/c if I didn't have to, why lose ground clearance.

And Like Coldair said you can get you existing shaft lengthened after installing your full lift. It would be the best minus re-clocking the diff and getting the double cardian joint and new output yoke on Transfer Case like Jimbo's explaining.

I know that after the lift, you may find you DO have a vibration since your angle will be way steeper. The correct way to fix this is to do the new style double joint driveshaft. However, TC drops are able to achieve this, BUT I'm with Old Dog, I don't like them.



~ JR

 

[thistle3585]

Thanks. I'll let you know how it urns out. Incidentally, this is a daily road driver so I'm no too concerned about clearance.

 

[duffer]

I don't think you will gain much anything with a 1" spacer with respect to driveshaft length. The problem is the lift springs will travel farther back at full compression and that will not change with the new front springs. The only good way to address it is with a longer new driveshaft. You may still need to space the Transfer Case down to get the correct driveshaft alignment. If you do need spacers, aluminum bar stock works really well and doesn't add a bunch of weight. I too see absolutely no advantage of the poly spacers-even with the bushings, they will not be near as strong as either steel or aluminum.

 

[thistle3585]

I'm resurrecting this again, as my project was sidetracked for a couple weeks. At a car show this weekend, a gentleman suggested putting spacers between the spring and the axle perches to raise the axle back up in lieu of dropping the Transfer Case . So, I am looking at three options. Any opinions or other ideas?

1. Drop Transfer Case 1"
2. Raise axle with 1" spacer
3. Cardone drive shaft which will require wedges on the axle. Not too eager to spend the money on this option.

 

[duffer]

I'm resurrecting this again, as my project was sidetracked for a couple weeks. At a car show this weekend, a gentleman suggested putting spacers between the spring and the axle perches to raise the axle back up in lieu of dropping the Transfer Case . So, I am looking at three options. Any opinions or other ideas?

1. Drop Transfer Case 1"
2. Raise axle with 1" spacer
3. Cardone drive shaft which will require wedges on the axle. Not too eager to spend the money on this option.

The double cardan joint is absolutely your best option. The axle spacers will cause even more clearence problems than the dropped tcase. I hit the spring plates more than anything else when wheeling. You could also solve your driveshaft length best with that.

 

[Jimbos76cj]

Putting a 1" spacer between the spring and axle will lower your jeep 1" in the rear.. don't do that.

The double cardan joint will be the best thing in the long run but

#1 you will need ridiculous wedges to turn up the yoke.
#2 the cost of the shaft tends to be a lot.
#3 HAve you looked for Dana 20 CV yokes? your stock one will beed to be replaced

If it were me I would jack up the rear of the frame of the jeep in the middle until both tires are off the ground.. IF your drive shaft doest fall apart at full droop the I would run it like that until there becomes an issue. or have your current shaft cut and lengthened to be the right length.. or figure out what length you will need and see if you can find any JY pieces with the same length. agan if you dont have any drive train vibe there is no need to lower the T/C, raise the axle or install a CV drive shaft. you have a drive shaft problem.. just fix that part.

 

[thistle3585]

Honestly, I don't care about lift/clearance. Its a daily driver and wont go off road. I have about 3/4" that it can travel before it comes out of the yoke. When jacked up it doesn't fall apart.