Flat tow, tap into stock harness. Need help

[cuban11182]

So the plan is to tow the CJ when I PCS out of here. I purchased some delphi water-resistant pig tails and went to work. I had read before, that all I needed to do was find the left & right signal wire, and the stop light wire. I'd cut those wires, put in a pigtail (properly do it, solder, and heat shrink), and then plug it back in after towing was done. I would've thought it was easy, but it wasn't.

I found that the green wire and the green wire with black tracer are the right and left signals. For the life of me I can't figure out which wire is the brake light. I tried all the wires when I depressed the brake, but none of them lit up the light. I then checked with a meter, and nothing. So I took the rear tail light cover off, and saw that the green wire, and the white wire (without the tracer) connected to the tail light/signal bulb. When I depress the brake, and test the wire, I still don't have any juice on the white wire.

Am I missing something here?

 

[GARGOYLEJEEPER]

Your wires to the rear are :
Tail/Park = White
Left Turn/Hazard/Brake = Lt. Green w/Tracer
Right Turn/Hazard/Brake = Lt. Green
Back Up = White w/Tracer
Fuel Sender = Pink

 

[Torxhead]

For you to tie into the existing harness, the plug assembly to the rear lights/gas gauge must be disconnected, or you will back feed into the brake light system and it will not work correctly.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

So we don't repeat or ownselfs--
Flat tow, tap into stock harness. Need help - JeepForum.com

LG

 

[Torxhead]

Cuban, if you can't get any juice from the white wire, you might have blown the park/tail fuse.

 

[cuban11182]

Cuban, if you can't get any juice from the white wire, you might have blown the park/tail fuse.

Torx, thank you for the info. Would that affect my brake lights? Right now they are working.

Edit
Just went and looked at the fuse, and it was good. I pulled it out, and tested the brake lights and they didn't work. Put it back in, and when I hit the brake I get lights.

 

[Torxhead]

Cuban, to further explain myself, when you plug in to the tow vehicle, then you need to unplug the rear harness on the CJ from under the dash to prevent backfeeding from that tow vehicle, or the CJ brakelights will not work correctly. If you install diodes like Lumpy did, you will not need to unplug the CJ rear harness, as the diodes will prevent the backfeeding.

 

[hagar]

You can install a toggle switch inline with just one of the front turn signal lamps. The wires are under the dash from the turn signal switch. If you interrupt the circuit, you prevent feedback thru the turn signal switch.
You can dash mount the switch, and mark the positions tow/drive.
If you only tow once in a blue moon, you can simply unplug one of the front turn lamps and the same desired effect is achieved.
There is no need for any diodes.

 

[cuban11182]

Thanks Hager and Torx. I'm going to have to address this at a different time as the brakes are gone in the CJ, no leaks, so I'm thinking the master cylinder gave up the ghost and I have brake fluid in my booster.

Now to figure out which replacement I should get.

 

[IOPort51]

12 Volt Magnetic Towing Light Kit

best $20 I spent on this problem. just plug and play.

 

[cuban11182]

I already have a set. I guess that's much easier.

 

[gyvrr]

If you plan to tow the jeep after you PCS to your new favorite wheeling/hunting spot you might do as others and I have done.

I purchased a 18/4 gage SO cord from my Home Depot or electrical supplier and a 7 blade harness connecter (male and female for your rig). I ran the wire thru the front of the grill thru the hole, across the left side and thru the firewall. I made my splices just below the E brake release. I inserted a spade connecter in the green/tracer wire above the connection to disconnect for the feed back problem. The 18/4 SO wire gives you the needed turn/brake/tail/common wires needed and is rated for wet locations.

I have the wire coiled around the washer bottle with a Velcro strap when I want it stored. The connector slides right in behind the head light and stays clean.

The reason for the 7 blade connector... Almost every truck has one. Wire it to the common configuration and this way even your buddy can tow the jeep.

Last word of caution.... There are some states that require towed vehicle to have controlled braking. Beware. My choice is the RV-2. Smallest in the market.

Good luck on your next assignment

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Last word of caution.... There are some states that require towed vehicle to have controlled braking. Beware. My choice is the RV-2. Smallest in the market.

Does NOT apply to a towed, motor vehicle(car-Jeep, etc).

Most states require brakes on a TRAILER with a GVWR over 1500 lbs.
LG

 

[hagar]

Does NOT apply to a towed, motor vehicle(car-Jeep, etc).

LG
Yes it does.
Many states require this.

 

[gyvrr]

I'm going to try to state California's rule as I remember it.

Any towed vehicle/trailer must be able to be stopped by the towing vehicle from 20 mph to a stop within 50' or brake assist must be installed on towed vehicle/trailer.

The bigger brakes on most RV's do just fine.

I've been told Canada requires brakes on All towed vehicles/trailers. Not sure how correct this is.

 

[cuban11182]

Towing Laws | BrakeBuddy - Braking systems for motorhomes towing a vehicle
State Towing Laws for RVs
Towing World Official Website
State Towing Laws

Most say that you don't require it if it's a vehicle being towed according to towing world. But like my father always taught me, I'd rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.

 

[cuban11182]

I just ordered the RVI Brake 2. I'll post up on how well it works out.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Towing Laws | BrakeBuddy - Braking systems for motorhomes towing a vehicle
State Towing Laws for RVs
Towing World Official Website
State Towing Laws

Most say that you don't require it if it's a vehicle being towed according to towing world. But like my father always taught me, I'd rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.

Consider the source of the info-he wants to sell you something. GUESS what that is. Many of his references are just wrong. Ca. for one. The 1500lb is for a dedicated trailer because Ca. uses a stopping distance spec for towing a motor vehicle.
AGAIN-A tow'd 'motor vehicle' is not classified the same for braking requirements as a dedicated trailer is. ALL of those links are about trailers--
Not say'n the item might not be somewhat useful.
I have flat towed my Jeep in every state west of the Mississippi and have gone through a few vehicle inspections at the state line, due to 'luck-of-the-draw'. NEVER an issue.
Don't let pushy/misleading salesmanship cloud the fact--
I have to know this , as I'd like to hold on to my Class A, CDL.
LG

 

[cuban11182]

Sounds good. In any case I've already purchased the unit. My truck can tow 10K so the jeep shouldn't be a big issue, but now I'll have brakes as well.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Sounds good. In any case I've already purchased the unit. My truck can tow 10K so the jeep shouldn't be a big issue, but now I'll have brakes as well.

Know a couple of folks that use'm and they like them very much.
Just the false/misleading sales BS turn'd me off to that outfit.
Please do a write up on the install and road-test.
Have to admit-There's been a couple of times coming down the east side of the Rocky Mtns that would have been helpful, if I didn't have a J-brake on my rig.
I have a 11 1/2 ft Lance Camper on a 1 ton crewcab, 4wd dually.
LG