floater axle and twin stick 300

floater axle and twin stick 300

driver007

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Canada
Vehicle(s)
1981 cj5 304 v8, 300 Dana,model 30 Dana and model 20 AMC rear end
Can anyone tell me if a floater axle can be done on a Dana 44.
If so is it needed. Also twin stick on the transfercase means what. Where would you use it rock crawling?
 
I assume you mean a full floating axle?

yes and no, the only kit I know of at this moment is for a 1969 or earlier 2 piece offset pumpkin Dana 44. Warn did at one time make a kit for the flanged Dana 44 under a YJ or TJ but stopped production of that years ago and I fear there are none left.

It is extremely rare to see full floating rear axles, I run one on the 67 only because I wanted to flat tow with ease. The added benefits are nice, but that is the only reason I did it.

I think they do make a kit to full float the Corp. 20 axle under your jeep and would be a nice upgrade to that axle, increasing the strenth tremendously.

A twin stick Tcase has 2 shifting sticks, one will shift between 2wd and 4wd, the other will shift between high range and low range.

Twin stick is a nice feature no matter what you are doing, the ability to be in low range in 2wd is what it adds and that can be nice in a lot of places. I think that those who have semi floating front axles will get the most use out of it. Also guys with Auto lockers like it a lot for obvious reasons. Not all T cases have the ability to be twinsticked, I know of the modern chain drive units it is a rare thing to see twin sticks because of the shifting mechanism internally. It is usually only found on the older geared T cases
 
I think Warn used to make a full floater kit for the Model 20 but they ceased production a number of years ago. I never saw one for the Dana 44
 
The "true" twin stick is the ability to control front and rear axles independently. When twin sticking a Dana 20 you pull out the pins inside it that do not allow for this to happen, and add the 2 sticks. Then you can be free to have axles in whatever gear you want! Not that being in low gear for the front axle and high gear for the rear axle, and vice versa, is ever really a good choice.
 
gliryan
there is no way you can have one axle in high and one in low, the t case is either in high or low, never both. what the twin stick allows you to do is have either the front engaged or not independent of what range you are in
in other words you can be in 2WD high, 2wd Low, 4wd high, or 4wd low
with a single stick you are have 2wd high, 4wd high, or 4wd low.
there is no way to get one axle in one range and the other in another
 
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At one time Warn was in the Axle business and made kits for the Dana 44, unfortunately their main push now days is winches. They like so many companies have forgotten where they came from and have forsaken lesser profit low volume items for high dollar mass marketing.:mad:
 
On a Dana 20 it is very possible to get the xfercase into front high-rear low (or vice versa). Each stick independently controls the front axle and the rear axle. In order to prevent this, you must take the case apart grind down the shift rails and file a small weld in one of the detents on the rail. However, if you just took out the interlock pills, then you have to be very careful not to cross shift...or things explode.

The D300 also uses one stick per axle. It's the same shift pattern as the Dana 20 pictured below.

Because of the mechanics of the D300, I dont believe you can get it into the hi/lo situation the Dana 20 can experience. I've never heard of it anyways.

TwinStickKnobs.jpg

Here's a set of D300 shifter nobs taken from Novak's site.

twin_stick_knobs.jpg
 
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^ thanks for the info. I was pretty sure that's how they worked, I don't know about the d300's though either.
 
I see the cool factor in doing the twin stick mod but it's a little low on my list. And agree it's always good to have another simple (and cheap) option.

But I do have some concerns and maybe I don't understand how much it helps in "front digs" (feel free to enlighten as that is why I am here). Another one is the ability to get around in 2 low and not sure how that is being used. That seems like an awful lot of torque on the u joints.

Overall I don't run a heavy rig to limit breaks; no back seat, no hardtop, cut out, small rock bumpers, no doors when serious wheeling and no exterior tire carrier (best beneifit of that is everyone gets to see my big ol Jeep Logo on the tailgate :D!!!).

In 4 wheel the weight and torque is distributed more evenly. I just don't want to go through any more ujoints than I have to. So I guess on that note, has anyone has issues with breaking/wearing more often.
 
The ability to not have the front axle engaged and to move down a trail with just the rear end in low range is really nice. Allows you to turn much better. Who is leaving their vehicle with just the rear axle engaged in low range without the front engaged and floors it? Someone that want to break something or isn't thinking. I know it happens, but seriously it doesn't have to happen. From when I've been wheeling and watching twin sticks it is a very nice addition. And doesn't really have to cost anything, with the Dana 20 you can mod and build it without the $130 kit yourself.
 
Well there you go
i have never seen that before
I am humbled
 
But I do have some concerns and maybe I don't understand how much it helps in "front digs" (feel free to enlighten as that is why I am here). Another one is the ability to get around in 2 low and not sure how that is being used. That seems like an awful lot of torque on the u joints.

In 4 wheel the weight and torque is distributed more evenly. I just don't want to go through any more ujoints than I have to. So I guess on that note, has anyone has issues with breaking/wearing more often.

Front digs are extremely useful in helping the frontend pivot around while maintaining stationary control at the rear of the vehicle. While effective, it can be tough on U-joints depending on the situation.

The ability to not have the front axle engaged and to move down a trail with just the rear end in low range is really nice. Allows you to turn much better. Who is leaving their vehicle with just the rear axle engaged in low range without the front engaged and floors it? Someone that want to break something or isn't thinking. I know it happens, but seriously it doesn't have to happen. From when I've been wheeling and watching twin sticks it is a very nice addition. And doesn't really have to cost anything, with the Dana 20 you can mod and build it without the $130 kit yourself.

Exactly right. I think that's why there is the warning about engaging 4lo with the hubs unlocked....it can be hard on the rearend in the wrong hands :D
I built my own twinstick settup using 1/4" plate steel and an extra D300 shifter. It ran me about $20 (for the shifter) and a couple hours of work.
 
I have a twin sticked Dana 20 from Don' s twin sticks which is now part of Novak conversions. You retain the shift detents, but the shift shaft have been machined so you have front or rear or both but you can not have on in high and one in low at the same time.
 
I have a twin sticked 300 and use 2wd (rear) low all the time on the trails.
I'm not lugging the engine and if I need 4wd it's only a stick pull away.
I haven't had any u-joint problems because of it. (I break them in 4wd.)
I should add that the trails around here are slow going (we have rocks, not much mud) and any obstacle usually call for low range anyhow.:D
 

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