Electrical Fog Light wiring

[Scout1067]

Are there any disadvantages to using the dome light wire to power my fog lights?

I rewired my jeep last year and didn't bother to hook up the dome lamps instead I just stowed and capped the wire from the switch for the dome lamp with the thought as it is an already switched hot I could use it for something in the future. My thought now is that I could that wire for new fog lights and all I would have to run is new grounds to my bus bar and wouldn't need to cut up my new dash to mount a rocker switch.

I am thinking running 14 gauge wire for the hot and either 14 or 10 gauge for the grounds. I am going to install 4 inch LED fog lamps in the grill mainly because in the spring I plan on replacing my bumper or getting the one I have blasted or powder coated when I get the Jeep repainted.

 

[shum8]

The only down side I see is the power to the fog lamps will run thru the switch LED’s don’t pull much current, but I’ve kinda gotten in the habit of running relays. Other than that, I see no issues. Unless, of course, sometime down the road you want to wire up interior light [emoji106][emoji106]


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[CJ]

I see no reason not to use the dome light feed. As shum8 said though, use the feed to trigger a Bosch or Bosch type relay. Then you can have + feeds that are the shortest possible.

Great read here -->> http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm

 

[Scout1067]

Yeah, I was kind of wondering if a relay would be necessary since LEDs draw so much less. I am still in the planning stages for this so it's a work in progress.

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[CJ]

I did not know they were LED's. What brand and model? Do know what amp draw is?

 

[Scout1067]

They are Xprite 4in led fog lights for a JK. I think they will fit into my grill. If not I am only out $40. I refuse to pay $300+ for KC hilites until and unless I know they will fit.

I don't know what the draw is, hopefully they have a spec sheet in the package. If not a buddy of mine has a bench tester and I can figure it out. I assume they will just connect and go like my led taillights did.

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[yellow85cj]

IIRC the OEM fog light switch was mounted to the bottom of the dash, like the cigarette lighter.
Wouldn't have to cut up the dash. Couple holes on the bottom lip.
Can't remember if the original wiring used an add on harness or if there was a lead from the headlight switch or both.

 

[CJ]

Is this the correct light?

-->> https://xpriteusa.com/products/xprite-4-led-fog-light-with-rgb-halo?_pos=1&_sid=e02d534e6&_ss=r\

They draw 2.8 amps each (maybe the site is showing per pair.) - 5.6 amps total. That exceeds the dome light circuit (I think.) I cannot look it up because I do not know what you have as a feed circuit..

 

[Scout1067]

Yeah that looks about right. I have the painless harness that I installed this past spring.

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[yellow85cj]

Do remember that the headlight switch controls the dash lights and dome light and acts like a dimmer. Will that affect the fog light operation? Or do you have an aftermarket headlight switch?

 

[Scout1067]

Dome light is on or off by twisting the knob all the way counterclockwise. Only the instrument cluster is dimmed.

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[Scout1067]

Can someone with more knowledge of auto wiring than me look at this and tell me if this diagram looks right? The 706 and 701 hot wires are unused pre-existing wires in my Painless harness on a 20amp circuit.

 

[CJ]

Not going to work. 30 is the hot high current feed for the lights. If 30 is not connected to +12v then 87a (normally closed) and 87 (normally open) never get + voltage. What is your painless kit part # (I would like to look at the diagram?) Does the relay have a diode? What is the relay brand and part? Is 706 connected directly to the battery? Is 706 fused? Do you ever hope to add more lights that may go over 20 amps? Why is the switch connected to ground (is it because the switch is illuminated?) What brand of switch and part# ?

Do you want it so the lights can be turned on regardless of the key switch?
If so.

706 to light switch
706 to 30 also
701 to 86
87 to both lights
87a unused
85 ground

 

[Scout1067]

I have the Painless 10106 harness. The 706 and 701 wires are the Acc switch normally used for a cooling fan, which I don't have. I am using a Bosch Bosch 0 332 019 AMC 150 Relay. Yes the switch is illuminated and I only want to be able to turn the fog lights on when the key is in the on position. BTW, my ground is a dedicated ground bus mounted to the firewall on the pass. side.

According to the diagram on my relay 87a and 87 are both normally open. I see what you mean about the 30 pin being directly wired to the 12v source. I reworked my my wiring diagram to reflect your input and the results of further research on my part. I am most definitely not an electrician although I learned a lot doing the rewire this past spring. I am pretty confident this new one is correct since it follows the guidance in the installation manual for my harness and incorporates your advice from above.

 

[CJ]

I have the Painless 10106 harness. The 706 and 701 wires are the Acc switch normally used for a cooling fan, which I don't have. I am using a Bosch Bosch 0 332 019 AMC 150 Relay. Yes the switch is illuminated and I only want to be able to turn the fog lights on when the key is in the on position. BTW, my ground is a dedicated ground bus mounted to the firewall on the pass. side.

According to the diagram on my relay 87a and 87 are both normally open. I see what you mean about the 30 pin being directly wired to the 12v source. I reworked my my wiring diagram to reflect your input and the results of further research on my part. I am most definitely not an electrician although I learned a lot doing the rewire this past spring. I am pretty confident this new one is correct since it follows the guidance in the installation manual for my harness and incorporates your advice from above.View attachment 74131View attachment 74132

Looks good (almost). One thing that confused me is you type terminal 87a and 87. Bosch uses 87 as normally open and 87a as normally closed. The 332019150 has no 87a contacts but does have two 87's as you diagramed.




If you want to run just one 87 terminal you can run one wire to the 1st lamp and jump the same wire through the grill to the 2nd or run 2 hot wires from one 87 to both lamps individually or do as you have drawn and use both 87's. All will work fine.

Now or the big BUT... Since I do not have a harness in front of me I called painless. I had no way of knowing exactly what was in the kit. Did you buy the relay kit from painless or just get the relay separately?
If you got the relay separately did you buy a circuit breaker or inline fuse for 30 feed? Circuit breaker shown below.



Painless says that 706 in theory could feed 30 but this will be Limited by other draws on the circuit. 30 should be directly to the battery (I agree), then a fuse or breaker (as close to the battery as possible), then the breaker goes to 30. One slight change below.





You can call me any time if you would like.

 

[Scout1067]

Thanks for the input. I hadn't even thought of a circuit breaker, that's a great idea. I would assume I should get one with the same amp rating (20) as the fuse on the circuit?



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[Scout1067]

That also begs the question of what is right gauge wire for the hot from the battery? I was thinking 10 or 12 gauge should be about right

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[shum8]

I’m waitin for CJ to divulge his source for the breakers..... I like that idea.

Not being strong in all things electrical, these are the threads I print out and stick in my notebook......


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[CJ]

Thanks for the input. I hadn't even thought of a circuit breaker, that's a great idea. I would assume I should get one with the same amp rating (20) as the fuse on the circuit?



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The circuit breaker should be larger, I work off of 40% fast load. 40% = 8 amps. 20 amp load + 8 amp = 28 - round up = 30.

That also begs the question of what is right gauge wire for the hot from the battery? I was thinking 10 or 12 gauge should be about right

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10 or 12 is fine. Bigger is better.

I’m waitin for CJ to divulge his source for the breakers..... I like that idea.

Not being strong in all things electrical, these are the threads I print out and stick in my notebook......


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I don't really have a source for breakers but I do use google.
I'm pretty good at using Google using search parameters.

The search phrase entered was "30 amp 12 volt inline circuit breaker -120 -120volt +automobile +dc"
= result of
-->> https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1...hUKEwjW883p0NjtAhVD2FkKHVDgBZsQ4dUDCA4&uact=5

 

[CJ]

Btw - you can get them @ so many auto parts stores as well as Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=30+amp+i...amp+inline+,aps,196&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-do-p_2_14

If you decide to buy it from amazon please pm me a url so I can add it to my store and get credit for it.