Front hub help
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Front hub help
- Thread starter Arosesdad
- Start date Start date:
- Last post Last post:
HackFabrication
Old Time Jeeper
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- Canton, MI
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- 1976 CJ5,
2020 Grand Cherokee Summit,
2018 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE Regular Cab Shortbed
MileMarker hubs with Grade8 locking fastners:
https://milemarker.com/?make=11740&model=11741&year_id=11837&post_type=product&action=vpf-search
https://store.stage8.com/p/8901-warn-hub-bolt-kit?pp=24
I would advise against converting to a rear axle hub system. They are weaker than stock. Disconnect the rear driveshaft instead.
https://milemarker.com/?make=11740&model=11741&year_id=11837&post_type=product&action=vpf-search
https://store.stage8.com/p/8901-warn-hub-bolt-kit?pp=24
I would advise against converting to a rear axle hub system. They are weaker than stock. Disconnect the rear driveshaft instead.
PistolDave
Active Jeeper
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- Lubbock, Texas
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- 1977 CJ-7 SBC 5.7 TBI, TH400, D300, D44 front, D44 rear, 4.56's Detroit / Truetrac, SOA, 35" MTR-K's,
------------86 CJ-7 258 - T5 - AMC20/D30 3.30 open f/r - Dana 300 - 2" BDS wrangler springs - 31x10.5 BFG
************* 83 CJ7 3.8L, T19 5.1:1, D300, D30/AMC20, 4.11's, Chevy TBI, OX lockers, OME 2.5" lift YJ springs, 33x10.50/15 KM3's, Lots of rust and zip ties.
There used to be a couple of kits on the market to convert rear semi float AMC20 and Dana 44 axles to full float style where the axle housing/spindle assembly carries the vehicle load instead of the axleshaft. As far as I can tell, none of those kits are available any longer, probably because they were expensive and unnecessary for most folks. There are some Dana 60 sized full float conversion kits out there and I think I may have seen a kit for JK UL/Rubicon rear axles, but nothing for CJ's any more that I know of. There may be someone out there that could piece one together for you using a mix of K10/F150 front axle parts, but it would be a custom deal, unless someone else has some different info. Removing the rear driveline is kind of a pain, buts its definitely the cheap and simple option.
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- Springfield, Missouri-U.S.A. Earth
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- '85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
X2 on what 'Hack' sayz.....
MM hubs are the best. I run a D/L in the front, and they have held up very well.
I also use studs and ny-loc nuts on my hubs, instead of bolts.
LG
MM hubs are the best. I run a D/L in the front, and they have held up very well.
I also use studs and ny-loc nuts on my hubs, instead of bolts.
LG
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- Roanoke, Va
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- '80 CJ-7, AMC 304, T177, Dana 300, Widetrack axles (D30 & AMC20) w/ 3.73 gearing, MSD ignition,
Rather than running bolts, flat washers, and lock washers thru the hub to secure it, you run similarly long threaded studs (think 1 1/4" pieces of threaded rod) into the wheel hub, throw the locking hub onto the studies, a then use locking nuts on the studs to secure. It looks as though the bolts have been inserted from the back side.
Oh - WELCOME ABOARD!!!
Arosesdad
Jeeper
Rather than running bolts, flat washers, and lock washers thru the hub to secure it, you run similarly long threaded studs (think 1 1/4" pieces of threaded rod) into the wheel hub, throw the locking hub onto the studies, a then use locking nuts on the studs to secure. It looks as though the bolts have been inserted from the back side.
Oh - WELCOME ABOARD!!!
Fantastic! Thank you very much! I have also heard there is some 5 to 6 stud conversion. Do you about that?
Truly appreciate it!
- Posts
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- 157
- Location
- Roanoke, Va
- Vehicle(s)
- '80 CJ-7, AMC 304, T177, Dana 300, Widetrack axles (D30 & AMC20) w/ 3.73 gearing, MSD ignition,
Yup - did that on mine. If I remember correctly, CJ's had 6 bolt hubs until they went to wide track axles, they had 5 bolt hubs. My CJ already had the wide tracks swapped over when I got it, and I had an old narrow track axle, so I swapped the hubs. Pretty much a straight swap. I wanted the premium Warn locking hubs and they only came in a 6 bolt pattern, that's why I swapped em over.
It's a piece of cake.
- Posts
- 14,790
- Thanks
- 55
- Location
- Springfield, Missouri-U.S.A. Earth
- Vehicle(s)
- '85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
Stay with the 5-bolt.
They have held up fine for me, all these years.
LG
They have held up fine for me, all these years.
LG
jp360cj
Old Time Jeeper
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- NC
- Vehicle(s)
- '77 CJ7, 360, 6.32 T18, D20, Narrowed Chevy D44 front, 9" rear
6 bolt hubs were through '80. '81 and up got the 5 bolt hubs ('81 was also the only year of the narrow tracks with 5 bolt hubs). Although I do prefer the design of the 6 bolt, and it looks to be a much stronger design than the 5 bolt, I haven't personally seen any issues with the factory 5 bolt hubs. Of the 5 CJs I wheel with (including mine), 4 are on 5 bolt hubs. The 5th one is mine on a Dana 44 front. 2 of them run 258s with 33s, 1 AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l w/32s, and 1 AMC 304 w/33s. The only hub issue they've had is the one with the AMC 304 swapped some used 5 bolt MM hubs and they only lasted 1 trail run. He bought them cheap with unknown history and I feel like there may have a been an issue with them.
Arosesdad
Jeeper
Rather than running bolts, flat washers, and lock washers thru the hub to secure it, you run similarly long threaded studs (think 1 1/4" pieces of threaded rod) into the wheel hub, throw the locking hub onto the studies, a then use locking nuts on the studs to secure. It looks as though the bolts have been inserted from the back side.
Oh - WELCOME ABOARD!!!
Another question - sorry to be a pest. So, remove a bolt, and get a stud of equal length (x10) along with appropriate washers/lock washers/nuts. Then, remove the hub, install the studs, and voila?
really that simple?
- Posts
- 7,316
- Media
- 5
- Solutions
- 1
- Thanks
- 157
- Location
- Roanoke, Va
- Vehicle(s)
- '80 CJ-7, AMC 304, T177, Dana 300, Widetrack axles (D30 & AMC20) w/ 3.73 gearing, MSD ignition,
I’ve never had issues with the 5 bolt design either - I swapped just to be able to run the Warn premiums. Having all the required parts on hand made it easy. And cheap. Otherwise I probly would not have done it.
Sent from my gas grille using Tapatalk
Sent from my gas grille using Tapatalk
- Posts
- 7,316
- Media
- 5
- Solutions
- 1
- Thanks
- 157
- Location
- Roanoke, Va
- Vehicle(s)
- '80 CJ-7, AMC 304, T177, Dana 300, Widetrack axles (D30 & AMC20) w/ 3.73 gearing, MSD ignition,
Yessir - But Lumpy said he uses lock nuts - removes the need for lock washers.
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Knighttime85
Jeeper
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- Whitehouse, Texas
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- 1981 CJ-7 383 SBC, Holley Truck Avenger 670cfm carb with a T350 transmission, Dana 300 transfer case twin sticked, AMC 20 rear end with a Detroit, Dana 30 front, H1 Hummer steering box swap, Sams Offroad steering brace, on 35's, Custom built rock sliders, White Rhino Fab flat fenders, Custom built winch plate with Mile Maker 8500# winch.
I need those locking bolts in my life, I've been fighting lose hub bolts for awhile now.