Front Rotor Replacement

Front Rotor Replacement

Niedhogg

Old Time Jeeper
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Thor, Iowa
Vehicle(s)
'79 Jeep CJ7 Renegade with 304ci V8, TH400 auto, Quadratrac T-case, Stock 20 and 30 rears with no mods yet, not sure of the gear ratio.. 4" Softride Superlift, w/widetrac shock towers and 35x12.50x15 BFG Mud-Terrains

'76 CJ5, 232 ci, T-150 3-speed, D20 T-case, Corp. 20 rear w/full float axles and lockout hubs and Detroit auto locker, D30 front w/lockout hubs, gear ratio is unknown..
Been driving the CJ a LOT lately :D, and have noticed quite a lot of brake dust building up on the wheels, and was thinking that during the build I never replaced the front rotors and they were quite rusty when I put the new pads on, so I've decided it's in my best interest to have them turned down, or just replace them.. they do look to be a bit thin for turning down, but then I'm no expert, just an eye observation, and they are a bit glazed.

So I was wondering if these hub rotors were any different than any other I've pulled off in the past... no lockouts, just the stock Dane 30 diff.. Is there anything I should watch out for? I'm just expecting, dust cover, crown nuts, splined shafts, re-pack bearings, new seal and then back together.. sound about right??
 
being a QuadraTrac I don't know for sure but I would think they would use the same 2 1/16 socket for the bearing nut, and not a castle nut. I would be interested to know what you find. If you do need the socket it is available at most parts houses for less than $20. It is not the prettiest thing you ever saw but it does the job.:cool:


Been driving the CJ a LOT lately :D, and have noticed quite a lot of brake dust building up on the wheels, and was thinking that during the build I never replaced the front rotors and they were quite rusty when I put the new pads on, so I've decided it's in my best interest to have them turned down, or just replace them.. they do look to be a bit thin for turning down, but then I'm no expert, just an eye observation, and they are a bit glazed.

So I was wondering if these hub rotors were any different than any other I've pulled off in the past... no lockouts, just the stock Dane 30 diff.. Is there anything I should watch out for? I'm just expecting, dust cover, crown nuts, splined shafts, re-pack bearings, new seal and then back together.. sound about right??
 
being a QuadraTrac I don't know for sure but I would think they would use the same 2 1/16 socket for the bearing nut, and not a castle nut. I would be interested to know what you find. If you do need the socket it is available at most parts houses for less than $20. It is not the prettiest thing you ever saw but it does the job.:cool:

Thanks IO, I'll pick one up when I get to town on Monday, with the rest of the parts I ordered today.. Wasn't too bad, rotors, both sets of bearings, pads and outer seals came to just over 100 bucks. It is supposed to be b-e-a-utifil this next week, in the 70s and sunshine.. i think the top is coming off for the week!!:D
 
One more question, what is the procedure for tightening the axle nuts? If there's no crown nut, then how do you keep for over tightening the bearing?
 
there are different opinions on this.
I torque to 50 ft lbs and back off just enough to allow it to roll easily. 1/8th turn +. then, as you will see when you dismantle, you bent the retailing washer to hold the lock nut.

on the subject of the socket, My 1977 uses the 2 1/16 socket and my 81 J-10 used a socket with cleats on it. I don't know when the change happened but your 79 would have been right in there someplace.
I f you have the same as this picture of My CJ you have the old style.

I don't know how far it is to town but I would feel bad if you had to go back for the "other" socket.
 
It can be interesting getting the rotors off the hubs. Heat helps.
 
there are different opinions on this.
I torque to 50 ft lbs and back off just enough to allow it to roll easily. 1/8th turn +. then, as you will see when you dismantle, you bent the retailing washer to hold the lock nut.

on the subject of the socket, My 1977 uses the 2 1/16 socket and my 81 J-10 used a socket with cleats on it. I don't know when the change happened but your 79 would have been right in there someplace.
I f you have the same as this picture of My CJ you have the old style.

I don't know how far it is to town but I would feel bad if you had to go back for the "other" socket.

IO, my hubs do not have the lockout you show in the pic, all I have is the dust cover over the axle nuts. QuadraTrac CJ. I'll pop one off before I go :D


It can be interesting getting the rotors off the hubs. Heat helps.

?? I was assuming I would have a one piece hub/rotor assembly ??
 
IO, my hubs do not have the lockout you show in the pic, all I have is the dust cover over the axle nuts. QuadraTrac CJ. I'll pop one off before I go :D

I knew this, just checking to see if you were paying attention.:eek:


?? I was assuming I would have a one piece hub/rotor assembly ??
Nope, two pieces.
The last time I did rotors I set the rotor surface on a couple cement blocks and with the lug nuts on the studs I gave the studs a few taps with a brass hammer, mine didn't take much. hopefully yours come off as easy. Put a 2x4 under the hub so it doesn't hit the floor when it comes loose.:D
 
?? I was assuming I would have a one piece hub/rotor assembly ??

You can buy the whole assembly or just the rotors. they are two seperate pieces though.
 
Nope, two pieces.
The last time I did rotors I set the rotor surface on a couple cement blocks and with the lug nuts on the studs I gave the studs a few taps with a brass hammer, mine didn't take much. hopefully yours come off as easy. Put a 2x4 under the hub so it doesn't hit the floor when it comes loose.:D

Doesn't sound too hard then..

You can buy the whole assembly or just the rotors. they are two seperate pieces though.

Well, I didn't know this, and the parts counter didn't ask which I prefered, so I guess it will be a surprise when they come in.. :D
 

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