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Hey folks,
New to the site. I am going to remove and replace the front wheel bearings. Can anyone relay to me the large socket size I need for the axle nut. I want to get this prior to starting. Thanks
83 CJ7 350 tbi, TH350, D300 twin sticked & clocked, narrowed Chief D44 Eaton Elocker & Moser shafts, Explorer 8.8 Detroit locker, 410's, RE 4.5" spring lift 1" body lift, 35" Claws, cage tied to frame, Corbeau baja seats, HD tie rod and draglink, u-bolts flipped, custom skid plate and sliders, Warn 9.5ti winch with Amsteel synthetic line
1980 Cj5, 350 chevy (i built myself), T176, Dana 300, stock narrow trac 3.54 axles, locked in the rear, power steering, power brakes, tilt steering, Warn lockouts, 31x10.50x15 AT's, hi lift jack mounted on the front, bed lined tub, firestick cb setup, 5 in hella lights, NO RUST!!
83 CJ7 350 tbi, TH350, D300 twin sticked & clocked, narrowed Chief D44 Eaton Elocker & Moser shafts, Explorer 8.8 Detroit locker, 410's, RE 4.5" spring lift 1" body lift, 35" Claws, cage tied to frame, Corbeau baja seats, HD tie rod and draglink, u-bolts flipped, custom skid plate and sliders, Warn 9.5ti winch with Amsteel synthetic line
Synthetic is the best, it will not mix with water and last longer. You can also take a screwdriver and a hammer and lightly tap on the edge of that big nut to get the nut off,the bearing load is not that much.
I want to check my front wheel bearings because wheels seem hard to turn when lifted off ground.I'm fairly handy with a wrench, is there a how to guide on the site ? Or it pretty straightforward , take the locking hub off and just keep taking apart ? Is there an inner and outer bearing ?Thanks for any help .
Are you sure the brake pads are releasing and the hubs are unlocked? Otherwise the answer is yes to all of those questions. My dad used to say "A good book and a bit of common sense will go a long way" then he would tell me "dont bother packing a lunch" hmmm I still don't get it.