Full width axle swap issue

Full width axle swap issue
cj7eatit

cj7eatit

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Wylie, TX
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I have a 1986 CJ7 258 CI engine, Tranmission 4 speed unknown model. Trans case unknown model, rear end AMC 20 front end Dana30.
I also have a 69Nova(restoring), a Harley Davidson FXD 1997 model(runs very well). Things are now going well.
hey all,
I am having trouble on some finishing touches and wanted to get some opinions.

I just finished swapping out my CJ7 stock axles to dana60 front psg side drop and a 14bolt full floater. I went with full width and have purchased brake lines and am ordering a pair of Tom Woods drive shafts to finish this all up.

I've run into an issue with the sway bar. should I go with a stock setup and add quick disconnects or spend a little more cash and purchase one of those genright off kits that requires no disconnecting.

Please let me know what you think and pros and cons do both.
Thanks all!
 
I would suggest driving it on the street and determine whether or not you even need one. A high arched spring provides more rigidity than a stock spring. Usually guys trash them after installing a lift kit and use the CJ mostly off-road.
 
My only issue with that is I still have the whole front end off the frame and it makes it easier to work with the suspension if I need to... Plus I'd like to get the vehicle to decent highway speeds.
 
I just went with a shackle reversal as "conventional wisdom" says that usually eliminates the need for a sway bar set-up. I need to drive my jeep at highway speeds so I copied the set-up of a friend who runs a CJ8 on full width axles with 37's and no issues on the road.
 
I'll get to finishing up then, my full width kit is from poison spyder so the ket is an axle reverse kit along with full width installation. I'll let you guys know how it goes once I get my drive shafts in.:chug:
 
If you are doing a shackle reversal wait to order the front shaft since its gonna give you a stretch to the front
 
revisiting all my stuff.... gonna get the wheelin going.
 

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How's it 'handle'?
LG
 
If your planning to push your 1 tons I'd recommend losing the double steering stabilizers before it gets crushed on some rocks, 1 will do. Also, your asking a lot from your stock steering pump and box, chances are you'll need a PS fluid cooler.

Kill 2 birds with one stone, install hydro assist, which will allow you to toss the stabilizer and upgrade your steering at the same time. Again, all depends on your wheeling plans.
 
For the front shafts? I'm running spicers.
 
Lumpy
It handles really well, even at high speeds... Hit a curve the other day and it bounced me around a little and asserted itself without any visible loss of control. I'm very pleased.

Posi
So the dual stabilizer brackets were set in when I purchased the axles, so I just slapped new ones on.... I'd like to get an assist at some point, but I'll move to one stab as part of your advice.

What are your thought on getting an AGR gear box without steer assist? I'd like to be able to keep it as a daily (non-highway) driver and keep the wheeling aspect.
 
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cj7eatit said:
Posi
So the dual stabilizer brackets were set in when I purchased the axles, so I just slapped new ones on.... I'd like to get an assist at some point, but I'll move to one stab as part of your advice.

What are your thought on getting an AGR gear box without steer assist? I'd like to be able to keep it as a daily (non-highway) driver and keep the wheeling aspect.
Click to expand...
If your not adding hyro assist at this time I wouldn't do the AGR box you wouldn't gain much IMO. I have a friend who ran your setup, except with high steer, and every time he went out it it puked PS fluid.

I would take a wait and see attitude depending on your wheeling habits you could be fine with your current setup, if your PS fluid overheats try a cooler, if that doesn't work go hydro assist.
 
X2 on PS cooler. They where in older Mustangs, and it's a bolt in deal on the return hose to the pump.
LG
 
Lumpy and Posi,
I really appreciate your advice guys, I'll start with how she acts based on my trips...then go from there.... used stang parts seems the next logical step. we'll see how it goes...can't wait for it to warm up a tad though....
 
I'm in the middle of installing a Chevy tranny cooler on my CJ plumbed for my PS. I ran 36's for a couple years before the stock pump just wouldn't handle it anymore.

Don't forget to brace your gear box if you haven't already.
 
You got pics of that? I've got a poor imagination. :chug:
 
cj7eatit said:
You got pics of that? I've got a poor imagination. :chug:
Click to expand...
I don't unfortunately. Im just building a simple bracket to locate the cooler in front of the radiator. I thought about using a stock Silverado bracket, but I think the dimensions are an issue. Once that's done, I will plumb it from the return line and then back to the pump.
It's considerably larger than a PS cooler so I'm hoping this will cure the puking problem.
 
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