Hard steering to the right

Hard steering to the right

TroyaCantrell

Old Time Jeeper
Posts
1,455
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Location
Orangevale, CA
Vehicle(s)
1966 CJ 6, Buick V6 Dauntless,
Dana 44 rear, Dana 27 front

Trans GM SM 420
First Gear ....... 7.05
Second Gear ... 3.57
Third Gear ...... 1.70
Fourth Gear ... Direct

Dana T-case (twin stick)

1970 Glass dune buggy. Short pan 1600
2008 Chevy HHR SS
Hey guys and gals, got a question on the old Ross / two tie rod steering setup. Steering right is harder then going left. I really noticed it more the other day when I had to tow it. Turning a corner to the right (slow in the parking lot) the right front tire would hop, wouldn't turn as much as was the tow vehicle.

The box was completely rebuilt and I know the system has its limitations but the difference left to right is what is getting me.

I am considering the tie rod flip and converting to a single tie rod setup does anyone with this setup know it that would change the condition I am seeing.

Here is an old picture before I replaced the tall shackles.

geqy9aqu.jpg




Troy Cantrell
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Build thread - '66 CJ6 :
http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15075
 
I really have no good answer for you. Could the angles on it be causing the rods to be pushing down more then side to side
 
I really have no good answer for you. Could the angles on it be causing the rods to be pushing down more then side to side

Well yes that was the case but some of that has been fixed with replacement shackles. There is some angle still, just not that much anymore. In that picture it was un-drivable. Since then I went back to stock shackles and axle shims to correct the caster, rebuilt the steering box, drag link, pitman arm and bell crank.


Troy Cantrell
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Build thread - '66 CJ6 :
http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15075
 
Hey Troyacantrell,
I know this is an old thread, and I'm sure I've messaged you before since I remember the name, but was wondering if you ever did the conversion to the single tie rod and if you did, what improvements did it make?
However if you have done it yet, can you post some pictures of your tie rods. I want to see if the angles on mine are too steep. I replaced everything on my steering with OEM, along with springs and shackles but my angles still look too steep.

Thanks
RJ
 
The issue with the stock two piece tie rods is toe in/out. Not really a bump steer problem. Back in the day converting to a 1 piece tie rod was SOP. My '67 has the 2 piece stock units and they seem to work OK.
I suspect kingpin bearings or toe-out condition.BTW hermtheoverdriveguy has the 1 piece conversion.:) mike s.
 
Hey RJ, no I have not yet but it is next on my list. Herm does have he parts too as Mike said. I have replaced / rebuilt everything else and still have too much play for me so tie rod ends have to go next so I figured I would do the swap too.

Here is the current setup.
u9azy7en.jpg


And before any work.

ubuma5up.jpg


What symptoms are you having?


Troy Cantrell
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Build thread - '66 CJ6 :
http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15075
 
Yes big deference, big, big deference, but still to much play? Very anxious to drive mine to see how it handles. I'm sure it will be all over the road since as of now, I can turn the wheel a little less than a 1/4 turn before I get any action out of the wheels. With these older systems, do you still have to have them aligned by an alignment shop? I've just eyed up the tires and adjusted the tie rods, but I'm sure that they will require more adjustment.

Thanks
 
Also wondering if hermtheoverdriveguy has any pictures of his one piece tie rod set up.
 
Y I'm sure it will be all over the road since as of now, I can turn the wheel a little less than a 1/4 turn before I get any action out of the wheels.

Thanks

That should be a concern. Can you see where all that play is.If all your tie rod ends are good and you just rebuilt steering box the main suspect is the bell crank. The 1 piece tierod conversion was done to help eliminate
shimmy or wobble in front end along with a steering shock this was fairly effective.next came the saginaw conversion to eliminate ross box and bell crank. For someone doing a restoration the stock componets should work
fine if everything is in 100% condition.I have saginaw p/s on my '69 CJ5
and it is wonderful .Just depends on what you want for a end result,
stock or modified. :) mike s.
 
Thanks for the insight Mike. Upon inspection, which I have done many times, everything is tight, no slop. Now mind you, this is just with the steering wheel just placed on the shaft. Not fully installed and tighten with nut. I have yet to do that since I have been removing the wheel when working on the harness and dash. Perhaps once the steering wheel is properly in place it should eliminate some, not expecting all, but some of that play. :dunno:

Thank you
 
A test that I do for the tie rod ends is driving over railroad tracks. The steering wheel should remain reasonably stable. Another is squeezing them vertically where there should be no or minimal play.
 
No images on Herm's site as a set but they do show all the parts. Just give him a call and pace the order that way. I figured it out once, the length of the new tie rod, but don't remember now.

I think the loose system is probably part of your issue. If you can go a 1/4 turn with no movement. With my wheels off the ground I have almost exact one to one movement but on the ground going down the road there is still a bit of wonder, not horrible or un drive able by any means, but makes it interesting on some of the two lane Mt. roads around the foothills here.

I set mine with just a bit of tow in for now, once I convert I will find a shop that can set it correctly. If I can!


Troy Cantrell
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Build thread - '66 CJ6 :
http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15075
 
:)
That old Ross buggy style steering is 1930's technology............It is always on the wear be it in the steering gear or all the other related links!

There are many other reasons that will effect the loose steering problem like: Suspension both front and rear and related Bushings , loose bearings, Tie rod ends, Loose knuckles & Spherical ends, Worn out gear box & loose bolts. But the primary problem normally is the Ross Steering system.

If your a Jeep purest then by all means keep rebuilding it and keep a firm grip on the steering wheel at all times. There are many folks on this site that take meticulous care of there Ross system's and still love them.

If your looking for probably the number one upgrade for an early CJ do a Saginaw Power Steering swap.........and I did say "Power" Forget about doing a Manual swap.


:D:D:D:D
 
One thing that I found was bothering me was the leaning or swaying motion on corners and in windy conditions.I installed a ADDCO sway bar
to the rear of my '67 CJ5 and this made all the difference in the world
and contributes greatly to the handling with the Ross steering. For street driving and light off road use this shouln't have a negative effect.
:)m ike s.
 

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