Help a noob pls

Help a noob pls

Rotor Wash

1982 CJ 7
I-6 with warner T4 tranny dana 300 x case ( all stock from my understanding)
Hello everyone,
Thanks for the warm welcome to the forum. Since I got my jeep I have been busy fixing all the things a 28 year old jeep comes with .
So yesterday I was replacing my worn belts and noticed that i have a hose coming off my front axle and going no where.
Where do i need to hook it in too ?
Along with my belts yesterday I replaced my missing PCV to carb vacuum line. It did have one when i got the jeep. After I reconnected the line, white smoke/vapor started coming out of the aft breather and from around the PCV grommet and the idle is a little ruffer now . When i unplug the line NO smoke/vapor, plug it in smoke/vapor .
Have I found a new problem and what do i need to do to fix it ?
Is this my EGR and what vaccum line needs to go into it ?
So what canister vacuum lines am I missing ?
Is there a way to test my temp & fuel gauges without pulling the instrutment cluster apart ?
They both dont work and me and wire dont really work will together.
In the interest of cleaning off some of the miles and age built up over the years. I wanna Seafoam the Fuel tank & system, engine oil and carb. So just that I dont make my life any harder. I wanted to run what I was going to do with the seafoam before the masses before I blow my motor apart.
One can into the fuel tank to clean from the tank to the carb injectors.
1/2 can into oil crankcase.
1/2 can poured into the carb as it's idling or should I pour it into the PCV line that goes into the valve cover.
Is that right ????

Thanks for the help and understanding.

It happens !
As the front diff. vent hose goes. it should be routed up and attached to the side of the radiator with a vent cap on the end of the hose. with it the way it is now, dont go in any water above your vent tube.
Ok thanks and I'll run it up high some place safe :)
I have to agree that maybe the PVC valve is bad. I would try replacing that first. They are cheap and need to be done as they get gunked up with time.

The one problem you have is your OEM carburetor was replaced with a Weber leaving some vacuum lines with nothing to do. I have included a 1979 vacuum line layout. 1982 may be a little different but you should get the idea.

A lot of people think the EGR valve robs you of power so they disconnect it when in reality it may just be the best engine saver available. (The EGR lowers the combustion temperature.) Notice how the line hooks up to the CTO switch.

The missing hose on the fuel vapor canister is the one that normally would go the snorkel/horn on the air cleaner. Since you have a Weber this is one of the hoses without a home. (I would plug it) The connections should be (looking at the canister, left to right) hose to carburetor bowl float, fuel tank vent hose, and as I said before the hose to the air cleaner snorkel.

The other thing I see from your pictures is that the fuel filter lines are improperly installed. The filter should be installed so that the outlets are up and down from each other. The bottom outlet goes to the carb, the top outlet goes to the return fuel line. I know I’m splitting hairs a little bit but when it comes to running properly, it can make a difference.

As far as the seafoam thing I haven’t a clue. I’m not a big proponent of dumping stuff into the oil. I have heard over the years of guys running the motor with straight kerosene or transmission fluid in lieu of oil in the crankcase for 20 minutes to clean up the sludge but not me; just change the oil a few times and call it good. Now carb cleaner I will do.
Can someone pls post a pic of the spark cto switch please I have no idea what Im looking for.

Thanks guys for the great info and pointers. I'm going to keep the seafoam outta of the oil but use it in the fuel and carb to clean it out.
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