Help: New brake pads - what are these "shims"

[CJ7inNH]

1983 CJ7 with disc brakes up front.

So close to getting the new wheel bearings and everything back together - been sitting on stands for a month+.

I'm elbow deep into this, did a quick search, haven't seen the answer, a few hours before I need to drop everything and pick up the kids.

What are these two "shim" looking things that came with the new brake pads? One has a backing to peel off to reveal a sticky side. What do I do with them (forget I saw them?) and where do they go?

Thank you, thank you, thank you...

 

[Torxhead]

How to Stop Brake Squeal | eHow.com

They are vibration reducing shims.

 

[CJ7inNH]

Huh! Good to know. Good info on that link as well.
Thanks for the quick reply.

 

[CJ7inNH]

Torxhead,

I did a quick search and haven't come up with anything yet, since you seem to be the expert in this area, figured I'd throw it out to you.

I just noticed that the brake line running from the caliper to the bracket on the inner fender area has a crack in it. Might as well switch it out now.
Does that line just unscrew from where it goes into that bracket, then continues on to the master cyl?
Will I need to bleed the whole system or just at that wheel (front pass)?
Any tips/hints on changing out that line?

I need to get this thing back on the road soon! Winter in NH is finally over.

Thanks!

 

[PaRenegade]

Looks like your in a hurry for an answer. The rubber covered hose is mounted to the bracket with a clip on both sides, if it's like mine. The hard line coming from the proportioning valve screws into the backside of the bracket where the end of the rubber line is at. Unscrew that first so the bracket holds the hose for you, then remove the clips. One clip is a thin square spring steel clip that looks like a deep "C" and the other resembles a horseshoe.
You should only have to bleed that wheel when done.

 

[Torxhead]

Since you have a 4" lift, most likely you will have to replace that line with a custom made or aftermarket hose that is extended to accomodate that amount of lift. If it appears that the line has cracked due to age, it would be wise to replace all three of them. For a wrench use a compression nut type which is a six point style so you don't strip out the wrench flats on the brake lines. Try to loose a less fluid as possible during the swap so you don't create any air pockets which can be a bear to get out. If the fluid does appears to be dirty, a complete brake fluid flush would also be wise. Which is just bleeding out the existing dirty stuff with new, one bottle of "dot 3" fluid should do it.

 

[CJ7inNH]

Really appreciate the quick reply and info guys.

Yes, I'm running with a 4 inch lift, so stock lines aren't going to cut it.

So next on the list is to figure out which replacement rubber hoses will work. I read a post that said a hose for an 84 Ford F350 could be a direct bolt on. ?

I was just about to install the new hub/rotor/pads/bearings when I saw the crack in the line. I'm thinking, while I'm at it, might as well replace the caliper - it's looking pretty warn, possible leak at one time.

Any suggestion on a caliper manufacture to go with?

I'm sneaking in time to do this research while at work, so tonight I'll do a search on this site for "caliper replacement" and see if any suggestions come up.

And yes, I'm starting with the front pass side, will move to the driver side, then around back.

Thanks again.

 

[Torxhead]

A four wheel drive shop or one of the aftermarket outfits like 4WD Hardware and 4WPW can supply you with brake lines designed to fit your vehicle with a lift kit and should be DOT approved. A brake shop can make some up for you also, if they are set up for that. When I do brakes, I refer to a local auto parts that does brakes and would advise organic pads since they will help the rotors last longer.

 

[BC CJ]

I'm a bit late to be of help in this thread but I thought I'd share my experience. I had brake squeel with fairly new brakes, the pads were ceramic, suppossed to be near top of the line (for average daily use stuff) and they had a 'built in shim.' It was a bump in the pad backing, not a separate piece shim. Anyhow, switching to cheaper pads that had a proper, seperate piece shim got rid of the squeel.

I'll be looking for the 2 piece design for any brakes I do from now on.