How to take off shifter.
AZ75CJ5
Jeeper
Do I take out all the bolts on top?
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How to take off shifter.
- Thread starter AZ75CJ5
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Yup-
LG
LG
AZ75CJ5
Jeeper
Oh great. Haha. This is a dirty job.
- Posts
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- Location
- Springfield, Missouri-U.S.A. Earth
- Vehicle(s)
- '85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
Brush the dirt away before you open it up.
Use sealer when you re-attach shifter.
LG
Use sealer when you re-attach shifter.
LG
Hedgehog
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
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- -1975 Jeep CJ5, 360 V8, Headers, Duel Exhaust,T15 transmission, D-20 Transfer case, Twin Stick Conversion, Warn 8274 Winch
-1951 Willys Wagon, 4 cylinder, "F" head, little rust, very close to stock
I used a gasket and sealer. Don't forget to get some engine thread sealer while you are at it. Nothing more frustrating than putting things back together and having the bolts leak around the threads.
Make sure you cover the Transmission hole, I usually stuff a towel in there, covering with duct tape is prettier though. You don't want to get any more junk n the Transmission . than you have to.
Make sure you cover the Transmission hole, I usually stuff a towel in there, covering with duct tape is prettier though. You don't want to get any more junk n the Transmission . than you have to.
mylittlecj5
RIP Mike, we'll all miss you
Make sure the shifter is in neutral before you remove it from the case! It will make things a LOT easier to get the shifter lined back up.
Also, You can't just drop the shifter back in the hole, it MUST line up the forks with the shift collars to operate properly, and avoid breakage.
Also, You can't just drop the shifter back in the hole, it MUST line up the forks with the shift collars to operate properly, and avoid breakage.
Hedgehog
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
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- Vehicle(s)
- -1975 Jeep CJ5, 360 V8, Headers, Duel Exhaust,T15 transmission, D-20 Transfer case, Twin Stick Conversion, Warn 8274 Winch
-1951 Willys Wagon, 4 cylinder, "F" head, little rust, very close to stock
mylittleCJ5 is correct of course, but I have to admit that I couldn't help myself and it can be fairly educational to fiddle with the gears to see how your Transmission really works. The T-15 is a sliding sleeve design, rather than moving great clusters of gears it moves a sleeve arrangement back and forth with reverse and first controlled by one sleeve then third and fourth by another. Also the way your shift lever works can be enlightening. But, I admit that I rebuilt my Transmission so how it works came along with getting the job done. You will notice that the shift forks have a plastic substance on them, it's actually nylon. The stuff is extremely tough to stand up to all that goes on in a Transmission . But as was said above, if you fiddle with the Transmission , make sure both front and rear sleeves are in neutral along with the stick. Then simply make sure the forks slid into their groves and you are good to go. I'd put it on and synch down a couple bolts then run it through the gears to make sure everything is where it's supposed to be, then finish installing the bolts.
JeffP
Senior Jeeper
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- '75 CJ5, 304, T18, D20, D44s w/3.73 1974 CJ5, 304, 4 spd., Dana axles 3.73 gears. 1973 CJ5, 258 I6, T18, Dana 20, Dana axles 4.27 gears. 1972 CJ5, 304, 4 Spd, Dana 20, 4.27 gears. 1976 CJ5, 304, T150. 1976 CJ5, 304, T150, J20 w/4.10 gears. 69 CJ5 Hurricane 4 cyl, 4spd all original! ‘53/‘54 M38a1 100% original but also 100% apart! Low 3 digit Vin! One of the very first m38a1s!
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