Hydraulic clutch troubles! please help.

Hydraulic clutch troubles! please help.
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Location
Midwest
Vehicle(s)
1985 CJ7
I just took the slave cylinder off my jeep (85 CJ7 ) and when i went to put it back on, it does not fit. there isnt enough room between the bracket and the frame. the only thing i can think of is that the engine shifted somehow...or is there a trick to it??? *boggled*
 
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Broken motor mounts/ tranny mount?
 
not sure. need to check those next. i dont know a hell of a lot about wrenching. back yard mechanic, i figure stuff out as i do it. i will see if i can find those tomorrow. thanks for the suggestion!
 
your prob putting it back in the wrong position
is it the same slave or replacement ?
if its the same one that came out it will go back in
if it was replaced is the new one identical any slight difference could cause it not to fit
 
its the same one and theres only one way it goes on there. i do have the skid plate on the bottom off of it, and it seems like maybe that plate helps hold up the tranny/transfer. maybe it doesnt. idk. it came off fine but im completely boggled.
 
Was the skidplate in when u first took it out? If so (or if not) I think u already figured it out. Try to jack up the tranny a little ( it's all bolted in so carefully) see if it fits, if it does put the crossmember / skidplate back in to hold Transmission up correctly and install the slave cylinder after.

If that doesn't help post some pics

Cheers ~ Jr :chug:
 
I just took the slave cylinder off my jeep (85 CJ7 ) and when i went to put it back on, it does not fit. there isnt enough room between the bracket and the frame. the only thing i can think of is that the engine shifted somehow...or is there a trick to it??? *boggled*
Tha frame is in the way??? Do you mean the body tub or exhaust? The frame should be nowhere near where the slave cylinder mounts on the lower end of the bell housing.

Got any pics?
 
ok guys heres on update. i jacked up the tranny a little, put the slave cylinder back on, skid plate is back on but now (lol) the frame is in the way of the hole the line goes into the slave cylinder. still seems the motor is too low! i checked motor mounts, passenger side seems to be fine but theres no rubber on the driver side, but the engine sits evenly. however, the driver side of course is the side with the slave cylinder and that extra inch or so that a rubber thing would give me would be plenty of room. but it would make the engine sit crooked i think. help again! sorry, im a novice!! Thanks so much for the help.
 
ok guys heres on update. i jacked up the tranny a little, put the slave cylinder back on, skid plate is back on but now (lol) the frame is in the way of the hole the line goes into the slave cylinder. still seems the motor is too low! i checked motor mounts, passenger side seems to be fine but theres no rubber on the driver side, but the engine sits evenly. however, the driver side of course is the side with the slave cylinder and that extra inch or so that a rubber thing would give me would be plenty of room. but it would make the engine sit crooked i think. help again! sorry, im a novice!! Thanks so much for the help.
The driver's side motor mount is usually the one to go, because it's the one that the torque is pulling on instead of compressing when you drive. I still don't understand how the frame could be in the way. A picture would help a lot. :cool:
 
The driver's side motor mount is usually the one to go, because it's the one that the torque is pulling on instead of compressing when you drive. I still don't understand how the frame could be in the way. A picture would help a lot. :cool:

ok, give me a few mins. i will go out and get a pic. its in a tight lil place so ill try my best! be back soon.
 
pic. the bleed nipple is clearing but not the line in hole. i would guess this is the reason the last line got smashed and broke....
 
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If (I assume) the line is flex line and long enough, i would install the line on, then try to get the slave cylinder back in where you have it. I know it was a :censored: to get in in the first place, but you don't want to strip the line end trying at a weird angle.

When you first removed it, was the line attached until you had it loose, then you took line off? Basically what i am getting at is your install should be the exact opposite step buy step as your removal - the fact that the engine / bell housing may have settled between the removal / install...

But by the picture it is hard to tell exactly what we're looking at / seeing.

What i will usually do is remember while i know where to look on a pic I'm posting, others may not, so i put the pic into MS paint. After which you can save it with mark-ups (arrows / lines etc.) to make it easier to explain what you want others to see.

That's just a suggestion though as there are plenty of way more knowledgeable folks on this site that can probably see exactly what they need to from the photo already... :cool:

Don't worry man, it's all a learning curve with these things... You'll get it...

* If the line that was there got smashed, then maybe your motor mount is letting it go too far down. You might need to check into new mount and that may solve your problem.
 
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it is just regular brake line, thats why im afraid it will have the same effect. i think im going to try new rubber motor mounts to raise it a little and if that doesnt work i will look into that flex line stuff. i really appreciate ur time in responding to help me out. my dad has been wrenching for 40 yrs and he just moved out of state so im digging into this old jeep by myself. i guess ive been "bitten by the wrenching bug" so im sure there will be many more posts to follow! thanks again!! :notworthy:
 
I would head over to a hyd hose shop and get a flexable hose that will replace the pipe. Being the body and engine both flex, hence the broken motor mount I would not use a solid line. You are just going to do the same down the road. Morris 4x4 has a good price on a full motor mount kit for the AMC 304 . I just bought one for mine and replaced all the mounts on the engine and tranny.
 
Silly question, but you didn't take off the rear tranny mount and shift it over because there are several sets of holes in the skid plate?
 
aww heck man, with mechanic :dung: nothing is a silly question. well the skid plate underneath is a homemade job so theres only one set of holes n stuff on it. but thank you! the rubber on the driver side mount is toast. start there n see where it gets me. will i be able to lift up the motor high enough without unbolting anything??
 
I put some poly mounts in and that took care of the problem.

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Check to see if the output shaft is centered between the frame rails. Somethings going on here.
 
i bought this thing for 1000. the only good thing on it is the 350, which i think is worth that. the rest is faling apart. im in school and dont have the money for a ful restoration so im just trying to have fun till it breaks in half :) since purchase i have put in 2 new rear axle shafts, locker, plugs and wires, and a vacuum advance.
 
aww heck man, with mechanic :dung: nothing is a silly question. well the skid plate underneath is a homemade job so theres only one set of holes n stuff on it. but thank you! the rubber on the driver side mount is toast. start there n see where it gets me. will i be able to lift up the motor high enough without unbolting anything??
I hope this doesn't sound insulting, but you have to bolt the motor mount in. You can't just replace the rubber part. It's all one piece where the metal is bonded to the rubber. Or did I misunderstnd what you were saying?

You need to just bolt in a whole new motor mount, and yes that can be done by just carefully jacking the motor up a little ways. The big queston is, what motor mount does it take??? If yo have a 350 Chevy i your CJ, I don't think it'll take a regular CJ mount or Chevy mount.
 
thanks guys!! ya i thought u could just replace the rubber. i will just match up the old ones i take out with new ones i buy. i guess thats the best option.
 

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