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Ignition Switch

Ignition Switch
D

dagwoodzz

Jeeper
Posts
59
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Location
SE Louisiana
Vehicle(s)
85 CJ V6 4SP
I was at the DMV Friday getting the title and tags for my CJ. Go to leave, turn key and nothing. the gauges and lights worked, but the starter wouldn't turn. The ignition switch is new, you can tell the key is brand new.

To get it running I took the jumper cable and by-passed the silanoid. With the key in the on position. Started right up.

Rather than dig into the steering column, I think I would rather just add an on-demand (push button) switch directly to the silanoid (can't spell that word) and mount it under the dash.

Can't seem to find anyone who has done this. What do you think? bad idea, if it was so great I think I could have found a write up on it.

Let me know if you have any better suggestions or warning why this is not a good idea. If I go thru with it, I will document and post a write-up.

DAG-
 
If your ignition switch is new, I would figure out why it doesn't work. Possibly a defective switch from China? My first choice. Maybe a bad terminal connection. Get out the meter.

All you need to do to put switch in is get a momentary contact switch connected to the battery and solenoid. Better put a fuse on the hot side.
 
Make sure the rod coming out of the column didn't come out of the switch.
 
The switch has an adjustment screw. it is at the top where it is a PITA to reach but when loose it allows the switch to slide up and down. I am thinking you need an adjustment. Do not confuse the switch with the lock, the switch is under the dash attached to the column.:)
 
Sorry for the delay, just got back from India. Glad that's over, the plan now is to...

run 14 gauge wire from point "A" -
To a 30 amp fuse -
To a on-demand switch (under dash) -
Then to point "C"


jeep1.webp

What do you think?
 
Last edited:
I think you should find the reason it does not work the way it is supposed to.:cool:
 
You have a bad solenoid.

How did you jumper it?
 
If his work around works the solenoid is good.:cool:
 
Actaully I do this as part of my security system
My momentary switch is placed just above the steering column and my tach mounted on the column hides it. Now this is the second problem they have to solve to start the jeep, first they have to find my negative cut out switch, Yes I have a switch that interrupts the negative cable from the battery and it takes a key to operate.
I run direct to the momentary switch from the battery and down to the solenoid. so if you press it without the negative turned on all you get is a click and it sounds like the starter is broken.:eek:
 
BusaDave9 said:
You have a bad solenoid.

How did you jumper it?
Click to expand...

I jump it by putting it in neutral. take the red side of j/cables and touch point "A" to point "C" and the starter turns. I really wasn't sure if i was bypassing the solenoid or engaging it.


I have a switch that interrupts the negative cable from the battery and it takes a key to operate.
Click to expand...

Can you explain that to a dummy? I would like to incorporate that into my work-around. Pics are encouraged.

Thanks, Dag
 
dagwoodzz said:
I jump it by putting it in neutral. take the red side of j/cables and touch point "A" to point "C" and the starter turns. I really wasn't sure if i was bypassing the solenoid or engaging it.
Click to expand...

There are 2 ways to bypass the solenoid. If shorting A to C will active the solenoid then the solenoid is good. This is how you did it. So you have a wiring problem 12 volts should go to the key and then on to the solenoid.

Some people short A to D. This tests the starter and battery. This is what I originally thought you did.
 
Okay, It's done now. Took less than an hour.

Safety 1st - disconnect battery, used the opportunity to clean the battery posts.

DSCF4837.webp

2nd Ran wire from Point "A" thru 30 amp Fuse to switch under dash. Came back directly to Point "C".

DSCF4839.webp

Here is a picture of the switch mounted. Put it opposite side of aftermarket lights. Push it away from you and the starter turns, let off falls back to the off position.

DSCF4842.webp

The only thing I don't like is it is live all the time. The kids could be playing in there and turn the starter. It has some down sides, but it works.

Thanks for your help and input. Unfortunately it is breaking faster than I can fix it. Now it won't come out of 1st gear. Let me do some research and I will start a new thread if i'm still stumped.


-D
 
any chance you still have an accessory circuit still working at the fuse block?

Use that if you can rather than the battery terminal. It doesn't take much current to fire the solenoid.:cool:

there should be a couple of un fused stake on terminals for the after market radio or the AC unit that isn't there.:D
 
ok I missed this one

What are you bypassing by running this new wire?
and above I saw that MTNWHLR ask about the rod ( from key to ignition)

good question
the key........it turns ?
does it spring back at the start position?
small test........turn fan, radio, and turn signal...all on......then turn key slowly.....to see what comes on........anything?

these will tell you 1st if the ignition is in the right position and 2nd if it is working

from there we tackle wiring from ign to solenoid then to coil

BUT what we have experienced from great POs is that you can never tell waht they have done........look along wiring to see if they have installed their own version of "kill switch"
any wiring that looks odd ( your wire with fuse......example):D:D
 
IOPort51 said:
any chance you still have an accessory circuit still working at the fuse block?

Use that if you can rather than the battery terminal. It doesn't take much current to fire the solenoid.:cool:

there should be a couple of un fused stake on terminals for the after market radio or the AC unit that isn't there.:D
Click to expand...


Good idea, never even thought of it. less current less chance getting wires too hot. Thanks
 
cerrajero said:
ok I missed this one

What are you bypassing by running this new wire?
and above I saw that MTNWHLR ask about the rod ( from key to ignition)

good question
the key........it turns ?
does it spring back at the start position?
small test........turn fan, radio, and turn signal...all on......then turn key slowly.....to see what comes on........anything?

these will tell you 1st if the ignition is in the right position and 2nd if it is working

from there we tackle wiring from ign to solenoid then to coil

BUT what we have experienced from great POs is that you can never tell waht they have done........look along wiring to see if they have installed their own version of "kill switch"
any wiring that looks odd ( your wire with fuse......example):D:D
Click to expand...

I'm bypassing the ignition switch for the starter. I'm just to cheap to buy puller for steering wheel, and too lazy fix/reconnect the rod to the ignition switch. ran a wire straigt to the solenoid with a momentary switch. It's an acceptable workaround although it did not fix the problem.
 
dagwoodzz said:
I'm bypassing the ignition switch for the starter. I'm just to cheap to buy puller for steering wheel, and too lazy fix/reconnect the rod to the ignition switch. ran a wire straigt to the solenoid with a momentary switch. It's an acceptable workaround although it did not fix the problem.
Click to expand...

OH.......the cheap and lazy way.......OK :D

yeah the ignition pushes juice to the solenoid AND other things


sorry bro

but if the key i still turning and its pushing the rod on the LOWER ignition then you dont need the steering wheel puller
you need a 5/16 ( or 9/32) wrench and a 2 foot tall contortionist that works for cheap to get to the lower ignition
 
here's the ignition if you bend all the way down where you head at the clutch pedal the twist your head 180 you MIGHT see ONE of the bolts that hold it on
 
If your going to do this work around, the accessory circuit will only be on when the key is at run. Kids can't turn the engine over with out the key.

Pulling the screws out of the dash and pulling the dash back far enough that you can see the switch to adjust it is not as big a job as it looks, if the screws come out easy about 15 minutes. The trick is to hang the passenger side by a wire from the windshield.:cool:


dagwoodzz said:
Good idea, never even thought of it. less current less chance getting wires too hot. Thanks
Click to expand...
 
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