I'm having a real hard time adjusting my clutch

I'm having a real hard time adjusting my clutch

ShowroomShine

Jeeper
Posts
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Location
Raleigh, NC
Vehicle(s)
1976 Jeep CJ 5, 258ci I6 3-Spd
Putting my jeep back together and having trouble adjusting the clutch. I have the rod and adjustment nut seemingly near all the way out, and the clutch wont disengage. I push the pedal down, and try to shift into reverse and it still grinds into gear.

I am certain I put the clutch and pressure plate together correctly, what else could be the problem?

No burs on shaft or splines.

New pressure plate

New throwout bearing

Fork is in good shape

Turned flywheel
 
Without seeing what you're seeing, i obviously can not be sure, but I'll take a stab at a couple potential ideas for ya.:D

1) Possible at all it's the wrong pressure plate and clutch disc thickness? What kind of pressure plate clutch did you go from (if you know) and what is the new one you are putting in?

2) have you tried adjusting the clutch pedal travel? This will possibly help adjust the other adjustment as well. You should have 3/4" to 1" of freeplay before the pedal begins to show resistance (from the top down, engaging the pedal)

3) are we sure the pilot bushing is in all the way, input shaft is also slipped all the way into pilot bushing, and the throwout bearing has not slipped out of the fork? It does shift through some gears correct?

I know you said " am certain I put the clutch and pressure plate together correctly, what else could be the problem? " BUT... :censored: happens... There are numerous times on this forum, I have seen someone say I know I put the disc in the correct direction towards motor, and after exhausting days of other checks etc, it has been revealed... They accidentally, with numerous rechecks before hand, still put the clutch disc in the wrong direction...

Just a final thought is all.

Post up some replies, and we'll see what we can get worked out.

:chug:

~ JR
 
Showroom,
In most clutch setups its pretty hard to turn the clutch disc around and put the hub and related spring plate in backwards simply because there normally is not enough clearance between the clutch hub and any recess in the back of the flywheel. Point is the clutch cover would have never gone on correctly. Not Impossible , but unlikely.
The linkage is pretty simple. you need ample down travel to release the disc. Also you need as stated before some free-play at the top of your peddle travel.
If you are not getting enough travel, look at all your points of linkage and check for wear & movement.
Hopefully when you replaced the Pressure Plate, clutch and throw out bearing you took the time to match up all the new components with the old. Any change in height should be understood and will effect your clutch linkage.
 
Once upon a time, I put a Borg Warner HD clutch and disc in my 77 CJ7. I had a hopped up 360 in it, and I burned out the OE original clutch, so I thought Id put a "heavier" clutch in it. Anyhow, the new clutch had so much "resistance" or "spring load" that it caused the firewall and bell crank linkage to flex in all directions, instead of releasing the clutch.

Took me a while to figure it out. I ran down a stock "spec" clutch, and installed it and the clutch released fine after that. This would have been in 1983-1984, the jeep was not rotted out yet, at that time.

Food for thought.
 
I just ran into a clutch problem myself where the disc splines couldn't ride up
the input shaft far enough....had to take .080 off the end of the disc or a better description would be I had to chamfer the splines facing the transmission.
This was after pulling all my hair out...it was a LUK clutch if that matters.

My symptoms were clutch pedal and linkage felt and worked fine, pedal would depress normally.
Couldn't shift into any gears without a lot of pressure/effort and grinding.
With the Jeep in gear, when trying to start the Jeep, the Jeep would want to move or inch forward or backwards with the clutch pedal depressed.
 
Id have someone watch the bellcrank/firewall area when you depress the clutch to make sure it isn't moving like someone else mentioned.

Make sure the fork is still on its pivot ball correctly.

You'll want about 1/8" max of fork movement before the TO bearing hits the pp.

Pull the fork boot off and look into the bell while someone pushes the clutch to see whats going on in there.
 
Id have someone watch the bellcrank/firewall area when you depress the clutch to make sure it isn't moving like someone else mentioned.

Make sure the fork is still on its pivot ball correctly.

You'll want about 1/8" max of fork movement before the TO bearing hits the pp.

Pull the fork boot off and look into the bell while someone pushes the clutch to see whats going on in there.
:agree: good advise
 

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