Im new to the jeep world!! Please help

[dwilkey15]

hi guys, i just picked up a sweet 1979 CJ7 on 35in boggers has the axle conversion (to the wider ones) disc brakes, lockers, splind drive shaft, AMC 304 v8,and more stuff.

I want to know what i need too do to get the wobble out of it, when i get up to speed it wants to sway side to side?? I am new to the jeep world so take it easy on me lol.

I am an ASE cert auto tech but i wanna know where to start on this problem because i would like to drive this everyday??

 

[mtnwhlr]

hi guys, i just picked up a sweet 1979 CJ7 on 35in boggers has the axle conversion (to the wider ones) disc brakes, lockers, splind drive shaft, AMC 304 v8,and more stuff.

I want to know what i need too do to get the wobble out of it, when i get up to speed it wants to sway side to side?? I am new to the jeep world so take it easy on me lol.

I am an ASE cert auto tech but i wanna know where to start on this problem because i would like to drive this everyday??

If your front end looks good your problem could be the 35" boggers they aren't much of a street tire.

 

[dwilkey15]

If your front end looks good your problem could be the 35" boggers they aren't much of a street tire.

yeah everything in the front end looks new, is there anything like stablizers i could do to it?

 

[Tin Medic]

Even dropping to 33s would help with any wobble.

 

[Torxhead]

dwilky15, right of hand it sounds like your front axle camber is off. The wobble might be driveshaft vibration, and boggers are not really a street tire, as previously pointed out. Mounting a 35s on a CJ correctly does take a bit of suspension work, so you probably have other driveline imperfections also. I'm sure it all can be corrected with a bit of work, money, and research.

 

[Old Dog]

As others have said, the boggers are probably your problem but post some pic's of the front end, maybe we can spot your problem.
How long are your shackles bolt to bolt? How big of a lift do you have?
I run 35's without a stabalizer with no problems so I don't think thats whats going on.

 

[Petescj]

Some good reading in here:

http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f99/troubleshooting-correcting-your-steering-4106/

 

[DHugg]

yeah everything in the front end looks new, is there anything like stablizers i could do to it?

I drive 35's. Even with completely worn-out tierod ends and known loose steering column they are stable to 55mph.

My steering shaft was rusted trash when I got the jeep home. Replaced it. The power steering box bracket would not stay tightened and twisted when you turned the steering wheel like a fat lady's corset. Replaced the two-piece OEM PS box bracket with Rocky Ridge HD model. And I put in a PS box brace to help hold the PS box against the 35X12.50's.

Recently I discovered that, on my CJ7 , the shackle bolts were dry as a chip, and looser that spec. I pulled them down, greased all and tightened. Made a difference.

Can't imagine how tight the steering will be when I replace the tierod ends, rebuild the steering column and replace the front wheel bearings. I'm learning that steering on a Jeep is a composite thing with little contributions from a bunch of places making up the whole enchilada. But the one-piece HD steering box bracket was the biggest contributor.

 

[zzzhopperzzz]

Believe it or not, the shocks can have a huge effect on higher speed handling.. I had Rancho's on mine, for a short time.. They were NOT gas filled like a normal street shock, and they allowed the vehicle to sway more than normal.. (I couldn't go over 55 with them).. I took them back and exchanged them for a gas filled shock, which was less "slinky".. Problem solved, full speed ahead..

 

[caveman]

All of the above posts are correct. Big wide tires on a light vehicle will make all kinds of funny things happen if every thing isn't just right. Also play with your air preasure. That makes a diference too. Road conditions also make a difference. I live on a paved road that is rutted from heavy truck traffic and my rig is always hunting for the high spot in the road. Since it's not the same width as the ruts, It never finds it.

 

[hdgapeach]

To start with the easiest checks first and progress through to the not-so-easiest (sometimes); Check the air pressure in the tires. Depending on the sidewall stiffness, that could have a lot to do with sway. From there, check the tow in (or out), then caster, then tie rod ends, ball joints, drag link, wheel bearings and so forth all the way through the system until you get to the nut behind the wheel!

Everything found needing attention will then have you chasing down the rabbit trail to check everything that could possibly have contributed to the found issue. Like Old Dog said, it's possible like it is. You just got to get it all right, and that might take some patience and elbow grease.

Mine rode like when I got it. Now I can steer it with one finger at Interstate speeds. Wife liked it so much she stole it from me and made it her daily driver!

Vote a few times a day! At least one of 'em will move us up the chart.

 

[rr41mag]

All of the above posts are correct. Big wide tires on a light vehicle will make all kinds of funny things happen if every thing isn't just right. Also play with your air preasure. That makes a diference too. Road conditions also make a difference. I live on a paved road that is rutted from heavy truck traffic and my rig is always hunting for the high spot in the road. Since it's not the same width as the ruts, It never finds it.

Me too