Initial Timing for new DUI Distributor.

Initial Timing for new DUI Distributor.

lrentz

Jeeper
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Location
Pensacola, Florida
Vehicle(s)
78 CJ-7
I have a 78 CJ7 with an AMC 304 . My new DUI distributor came with an 24 degree advance all in by 3000 rpm. I use 87 octane gas. Should I set my initial timing with the vacuum disconnected to stock specs? If so, what would be those specs.

Thanks,

lrentz
 
I have a 78 CJ7 with an AMC 304 . My new DUI distributor came with an 24 degree advance all in by 3000 rpm. I use 87 octane gas. Should I set my initial timing with the vacuum disconnected to stock specs? If so, what would be those specs.

Thanks,

lrentz
12 to 14 Degrees Initial Advance.
 
For factory specs..

1978 timing is 6 deg before TDC for a manual tans with the vacuum disconnected...

If you have an auto its' 6 degrees before TDC with the vacuum line disconnected ...
 
For factory specs..

1978 timing is 6 deg before TDC for a manual tans with the vacuum disconnected...

If you have an auto its' 6 degrees before TDC with the vacuum line disconnected ...
With all due respect to CJ. The manual I'm looking at say's from 3 to 7 degrees initial advance for the stick & 8 to 12 for the auto in 1978. In 1980 it states from 10 to 14 degrees for a stick in hilly terrain. But that also for a stock Jeep that never came equipped with a HEI Or DUI type ignition. you may also be able to run a wider than factory spark plug gap, possibly out to .45 inch, but it's trial and error to get it right. I was just giving what I run my HEI at. I works for me, I also run the wider gap. But again when you start modifying your engine some times the manual isn't exactly right either. You have to do your own trials to figure out what work's at your specific altitude, humidity, terrain, and so forth. not to step on any bodies toes, but that's been my experience.
 
I appreciate the responses. I am going to do the install this weekend. I am just trying to get all the information before hand. Like where I am going to pull the 12v from. I am looking at the wiring that goes to my current ignition control module box. Wouldn't one of the wires going to it be the 12v I would need to use?

In the picture the red/white wire currently goes to the ignition control module which will be removed with the DUI installation. Is that wire the wire I will need to use?

Thanks again.

lrentz
 
Last edited:
In the picture the red/white wire currently goes to the ignition control module which will be removed with the DUI installation. Is that wire the wire I will need to use?

Thanks again.

lrentz

You can use any 12 Volt that is switched. I say this because I had initially hooked mine up to a staight Battery source, not good on your coil to be in the on possition like that. Just make sure that it is a good size wire, 10-12 gauge should be fine, bigger if you want.

The DUI site states to do an initial time at 12 BTDC, take it on the road, if you hear any pinging, retard the timing until its gone.

What is your spark plug gap set too?
 
I will check the spark plug gap this weekend and adjust it as necessary when I install the distributor.

As for the switched 12v, Seems to me the red w/wht trace going to the icm would be the one to use for 12v switched. Is that right? Or is the Red w/blk trace going to the existing coil the one to use? I guess when I start the install this weekend I will get the volt meter out and check before I start. What have you all used when you switched to a DUI distributor.

Thanks for the help guys.

lrentz
 
I ended up yanking the entire harness out under the hood. I ran a wire to my keyed ignition on the column.
 
Can someone snap me a picture of the DUI installed on their AMC 304 V8. I have mine in place but not hooked up and there is barely enough room to even move it. I am hesitant to keep going with the install before I know that it is right. I have the rotor pointed at no1 at TDC. The fuel line is so close it is touching the cap. I have bent it as much as I could.

lrentz
 
~~~ The fuel line is so close it is touching the cap. I have bent it as much as I could. ~~~
The big problem is that - for better or for worse - most CJ's were basically had made... Yep - they were actually production but they were tweaked, bent and fabbed to get them off of the assembly line and on the road... :)

Your fuel line just needs to be cut and rerouted... A common occurrence when upgrading to the ignition you chose... :)
 
Is it ok to use a rubber fuel line and how close should I cut it from the fitting.
Hey Lrentz... I think your missing my point! :) And that is OK because most people do! :laugh:

The correct ratio to rubber / steel fuel line is written down some where... But the people who made those rules never owned a CJ! :laugh:

Just cut your fuel line, rout it so it is free of heat, abrasions, obstructions (now this is where Jeep-CJ.com claims it's lack of liability) and such.... Use common seance and just make sure your Jeep won't blow up! Basically - DO NOT PUT FUEL WHERE IT CAN / WILL BE A PROBLEM (only you can determine that situation).

So, it's just a fuel line... Do what you need to do... (following the above advice) :)
 
Yup. Here's the deal as I have experienced. Jeep sucked at placing fuel systems on an engine! :eek: Basically, any mod to your engine will pretty much require you to be "creative" with the fuel line routing. I strongly recommend that you remove the fuel line, and use a tubing bender to try and tweak the line if you can. If not, then use a tubing cutter to cut the line so as not to make a ragged or sharp end like you would with a hack saw, and cause a rubber line to wear through. Leave as much steel line as you can, and be sure to secure it with clips so that it won't vibrate or move around causing it to crack and fail. Don't go nuts worrying about how much rubber line you have out, just run it carefully, and keep it away from anything that will cut it and cause a fuel leak over something like a header or electrical junction. I also recommend that you make it fairly accessible so you can check it from time to time when you're under the hood for regular maintenance. But rule of thumb with Jeep fuel lines is, when they get in the way, cut em up!
 

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